towing trailer from swinging drawbar

gearman · Apr 13, 2011

I need some help. Im trying to tow a landscape style trailer from the "swinging Drawbar" My tractor is a TC55da with FEL. Im refering to the swinging drawbar as the solid bar, not a 3pt attached receiver hitch. The problem is this...The snout/triangle on the front of the landscape trailer is short, so when I turn the tractor, the trailer will rub against the rear tires of the tractor. Using a 3pt attachment for a receiver will NOT work for me, I already have a log skidding winch attached to the 3pt arms. I can raise the winch out of the way, to get access to the swinging drawbar. I would like to extend the swinging drawbar about 1 ft, to allow for better clearance between the trailer and tractor tires. Im guessing issues may arise as to tongue weight, if the drawbar were to be extended. Has anyone every seen a pin on type drawbar extension? Any other ideas?

beenthere · Apr 13, 2011

Is your drawbar extendable now?
And if so, is it all the way out?

If so, then I'd consider making a change to the landscape trailer before trying to put an extension on the tractor drawbar. Or buy some steel stock and make a longer tractor drawbar from scratch.

gearman · Apr 13, 2011

My drawbar is extended. I found a thead that described this problem, better than I did. I mention the landscape trailer as the problem, but I have the same problem, towing any type road trailer (haywagon tows fine...long tongue). I use several different trailers, from a 12ft lt duty (snobear), to a dual axle landscape trailer, 18ft. I dont want to have to modify all/every trailer i own/use/will own in the future. Thanks for the suggestions

dusty3030 · Apr 13, 2011

Once you have the trailer attached to the tractor do you have to back up much or any?

Reason I ask is you could fab up a tow dolly, would be something similar to what you see a semi truck use to haul tandem trailers.

zzvyb6 · Apr 13, 2011

How are your rear wheels set as far as spacing? Move them as far outboard as possible to get more tow angle. Pics of TC55da tractors show standard 2 piece rims (spider and rim), so spread them out. 3 or 4 inches on each side may be enough to satisfy your turning requirements.

dusty3030 · Apr 13, 2011

dusty3030 said:
Once you have the trailer attached to the tractor do you have to back up much or any?

Reason I ask is you could fab up a tow dolly, would be something similar to what you see a semi truck use to haul tandem trailers.

Just thought of another idea. How much further back do you need to go?
Get another drawbar and weld on the female 2" receiver hitch section to it. Then you could put in a regular reciver hitch into that with your ball. That would give you another foot or so. Just take care on the drawbar weight since you are going further back than stock.

Gary Fowler · Apr 13, 2011

It should be easy enough to fab up an extension that would slide over your existing drawbar and put you back a foot or more. Make it so it slides tightly over your drawbar and extends few inches past the existing pin hole in your drawbar, secure it with a hitch pin and it should work fine.IF your drawbar is like most larger tractors and about 2" wide by 1" thick or more, dont be concerned with tongue weight, You will bend the ball hitch on your trailer before you bend that solid steel bar. Just load your trailer as you would if it was on your truck keeping to tongue weight under 500 lbs. If you have a double clevis type drawbar, it will be a bit more complicated to fab up but should still work.

gearman · Apr 13, 2011

I need to go back about 1ft. I was thinking of a piece of box steel to slip over my drawbar, drilled and bolted to the existing drawbar, then drill and mount a 2" ball. I think that would be the cheapest...not necessarily the best.

Egon · Apr 13, 2011

Does your drawbar actually swing or is it fixed in place?

radioman · Apr 13, 2011

gearman said:
I need to go back about 1ft. I was thinking of a piece of box steel to slip over my drawbar, drilled and bolted to the existing drawbar, then drill and mount a 2" ball. I think that would be the cheapest...not necessarily the best.

actually- this was my first thought. a rectangle tube with ID same as your tongue draw bar. this way you can utilize the pin hole to lock tube in place when slipping on the drawbar.

I don't see why this isnt the best way for you. It's exactly what I would do. You say you need a foot sticking out? go 2 ft and test. you always can shorten up the tube anytime. I would go with at least 1/4 thickness or more.