Truck tire pressure

[Diamondpilot]

There's a couple of things in "Car Talk" that are out and out bogus...I wouldn't believe anything that author says. Example... Under inflated tires overhead because of excessive sidewall flexing, not increased friction from a slightly larger footprint. That's the exact reason for all the tire failures years ago on the Ford SUVS. The Fords needed to have a softer ride because of their leaf spring suspension and the way they decided to do it was the cheapest...print a sticker with lower tire inflation pressures to give a softer ride. The same exact tires on other makes of vehicles but with higher pressures had no problems. It also doesn't take into account that the tire on the vehicle isn't necessarily the same spec tire as was installed at the factory, and even if it was, since the Ford SUVs had underinflated specs from the factory, would you blindly inflate your tires to the same pressure that caused all the problems in the first place?

Not that it's related to the tires, but the author makes reference to driving and drinking coffee. (Hint: If you notice that every tie you own has coffee on it, check your tire pressure. It may be too high.) He shouldn't have said anything about it period. It's really called driving without due care and attention and there are many people who have received tickets and been convicted for it. The author is guilty of giving incorrect information and giving information that could give people the idea that doing something is ok when it might get you a ticket.

If you want some information on tires and air pressure, have a read through this very comprehensive site and the links in it also. Tire Tech Information - Air Pressure - Correct, Underinflated and Overinflated

I do not read it that way. I read it that running with under inflated tires causes many problems and he is listing some of the. One being wear and the other heat. He is not saying they necessarily go hand hand hand.

As for the Ford Firestone thing both were at fault. They replaces tons of Firestone SUV and LT tires under warranty on all makes a models, not just Fords. The issue was discovered on Fords because of the failures with the Explorers but my Co-Pilot got his tires on his Yukon replaced for free at the time also. It came from the factory with Firestone's and he simply took it into a tire shop and they put a new set on for free. He has never had a issue and is now on the 3rd set.

Chris

 

[radioman]

You guys are forgetting about the hypermiling techniques.

from thier website Beating the EPA - The Why’s and How to Hypermile - CleanMPG Forums
Tire pressures are a very important key to higher fuel economy. The higher the pressure, the lower the rolling resistance, the higher the fuel economy. The absolute minimum you should use is the driver痴 side door or owners manual recommended tire inflation criteria. This is what the EPA and your car manufacturer sets tire pressures to during the EPA city/highway testing. MAX sidewall is what I would recommend for most as it is well within the safety limits of your car and tire and allows better FE than the pressure listed in the driver痴 side door. I can discuss but cannot personally recommend upwards of 25% higher than MAX sidewall as there are legal constraints we all have to live with. That being said, 50 + #痴 on a MAX Sidewall rated tire leads to even higher FE. Pros, higher FE, less tread wear, more even tread wear across the treads width, shorter braking distances in a variety of conditions, and in many cases, even better handling. Cons, higher NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness).

Now that said- I follow the tire max pressures. I ignore the door car specs.

 

[TheTrailerGuy]

You guys are forgetting about the hypermiling techniques.

from thier website Beating the EPA - The Why痴 and How to Hypermile - CleanMPG Forums
Tire pressures are a very important key to higher fuel economy. The higher the pressure, the lower the rolling resistance, the higher the fuel economy. The absolute minimum you should use is the driver逞ｴ side door or owners manual recommended tire inflation criteria. This is what the EPA and your car manufacturer sets tire pressures to during the EPA city/highway testing. MAX sidewall is what I would recommend for most as it is well within the safety limits of your car and tire and allows better FE than the pressure listed in the driver逞ｴ side door. I can discuss but cannot personally recommend upwards of 25% higher than MAX sidewall as there are legal constraints we all have to live with. That being said, 50 + #逞ｴ on a MAX Sidewall rated tire leads to even higher FE. Pros, higher FE, less tread wear, more even tread wear across the treads width, shorter braking distances in a variety of conditions, and in many cases, even better handling. Cons, higher NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness).

Now that said- I follow the tire max pressures. I ignore the door car specs.

Radioman.... you are opening a can of worms. Vio Condios my friend... go with God. (I agree but quit speaking about it.)

 

[ultrarunner]

You guys are forgetting about the hypermiling techniques.

from thier website Beating the EPA - The Why痴 and How to Hypermile - CleanMPG Forums
Tire pressures are a very important key to higher fuel economy. The higher the pressure, the lower the rolling resistance, the higher the fuel economy. The absolute minimum you should use is the driver逞ｴ side door or owners manual recommended tire inflation criteria. This is what the EPA and your car manufacturer sets tire pressures to during the EPA city/highway testing. MAX sidewall is what I would recommend for most as it is well within the safety limits of your car and tire and allows better FE than the pressure listed in the driver逞ｴ side door. I can discuss but cannot personally recommend upwards of 25% higher than MAX sidewall as there are legal constraints we all have to live with. That being said, 50 + #逞ｴ on a MAX Sidewall rated tire leads to even higher FE. Pros, higher FE, less tread wear, more even tread wear across the treads width, shorter braking distances in a variety of conditions, and in many cases, even better handling. Cons, higher NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness).

Now that said- I follow the tire max pressures. I ignore the door car specs.

Picked up a rental Montana Mini Van once from the SF Airport and as soon as I got on the freeway, I decided to pull off and check tire pressure... pulled into a station and asked the mechanic if the gauge was accurate and he pulled one out of his pocket for me to use... over 100lbs in 3 of the 4 passenger tires!!!

It was a cool day and had only driven about 3 miles.

 

[timswi]

Is this on your new truck? What do you mean by delaminating? The tires or the wheels?

Chris

Just the plastic coating on the chrome..No big deal ..Cosmetic. They replaced all 4 with no arguments and even used stick on weights at my request with no arguments either..Just wish the'd have gotten the tire pressure closer, my fault too for not double checking. Truck was spotless when I picked it up...The GMC dealer here is awsome.

It appears there was a short term bad run from whoever makes the Denali wheels.

I can't believe that people actually run vehicles to max sidewall..The Exploder problems were mostly due to underinflation, and that's the owner's fault. Now we all have these stupid TPMS things that are nothing more than another expensive, useless pieces of garbage...All thanks to the Exploders.

 

[Egon]

I can't believe that people actually run vehicles to max sidewall/QUOTE]

For the last twelve years my truck has been running at maximum sidewall pressure, 80 PSI. Haven't noticed the centre's wearing any faster than the rest of the tires.:thumbsup:

 

[dodge man]

My problem with running higher tire pressures would be the handling. Anything near the max on the tire and it seems like bumps just about kick you off the road.

 

[timswi]

For the last twelve years my truck has been running at maximum sidewall pressure, 80 PSI. Haven't noticed the centre's wearing any faster than the rest of the tires.:thumbsup:[/QUOTE]

You run you pickup tires at 80 PSI, and the centers don't burn out? Not too be smart, but that defies physics unless the truck is only driven on grass.. There can't be more than 1.5 inches of tread contact unless the truck weighs 10 tons...Even then.....

My truck calls for 30PSI by spec, and 6lbs of overinflation caused premature wear on the centers of my rear tires in 1,00 miles..Max sidewall is 44lbs. I would be replacing the tires at 8,000 miles if I did that.

Not arguing...Just sayin'

 

[Egon]

unless the truck weighs 10 tons../QUOTE]

Think that 10 tons is a little heavy for my old truck.

If it's empty I run at 60psi.:thumbsup:

 

[TheTrailerGuy]

That's kind of where I got stuck...but Chris is right, the Michelin site says it plain as day. I would imagine that with a load (like 9660lb) and heat from friction on the road, the pressure probably rises a certain percentage in the tires. I would think that you wouldn't want it rising above the max rating on the tire, so maybe that's why the truck manufacturer sets it at some safe value for all-around use. Beats me but I'll go with that and maybe just up it a little when I'm hauling stuff.

Ok, i happened to be looking for some vintage tires for a buddies old hot rod Cadillac project and while at the Coker tire site, emailed them asking what they recommended as far as following air pressure settings.. meaning, do i inflate to the max PSI on the sidewall, or something else... THEY recommended the following...

Craig,
For a smoother ride and a declined chance of tire issues we suggest running
the suggested air pressure usually marked on the side of your tire from the
manufacturer.

Thank You,
Richard Stephens
Web Support

End of story for me... but i get it won't be the last entry on this thread.