1958 Massey Ferguson MF-50 Remotes?? HELP!

[Farmwithjunk]

I know you can get a diverter valve that bolts to the top of the trans to allow you to run a regular valve and give you dual acting remotes, I just can't afford to throw $400 in hydraulic parts on the tractor right now ($100 for the diverter, $180 for a 2-spool valve, about and 4 quick connects at $30 apiece) My boss gave me one quick connect, and a line, i was hoping to be able to just run it straight from the lift plate

Sounds like we're on the same page! The port I was referring to is just under the standpipe block (what you call the "adapter plate") where a diverter valve would mount, along the edge of the lift cover.

 

[Massey_lover]

thanks, I was just out looking at my Massey and I saw EXACTLY what you mean, took it out and checked for flow, its there! now I just need to get into town and get a hose. Its 3/8" by the way. I think I'll get a street elbow and a 3/8" hose, plus a 3/8"-1/2" bushing to go into the female coupler. And not being able to use the three point won't be much of an issue at all, since I'm only using it to lift a haybine. I'll put the cross drawbar in it, and then ratchet strap it to the top link pin to keep it out of my pto. This makes me very happy I should ask, will black iron water pipe fittings take the pressure? or what should I use?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

thanks, I was just out looking at my Massey and I saw EXACTLY what you mean, took it out and checked for flow, its there! now I just need to get into town and get a hose. Its 3/8" by the way. I think I'll get a street elbow and a 3/8" hose, plus a 3/8"-1/2" bushing to go into the female coupler. And not being able to use the three point won't be much of an issue at all, since I'm only using it to lift a haybine. I'll put the cross drawbar in it, and then ratchet strap it to the top link pin to keep it out of my pto

I was gonna mention it, but forgot....But you covered it anyway...You have to tie the 3-point in the UP position or it will drift up and down with every cycle of the cylinder.

 

[Massey_lover]

I love when people tell me what I want to hear. 'cause usually when they tell me what I don't want to hear, it involves me going and buying something expensive afterwards. Like last winter, I broke the coupler in the driveshaft of the old girl, everybody told me it was the clutch. I didnt think it was because I still have hydraulics and PTO. so I spent $700 on a clutch, tractor still didnt move. FAIL.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I love when people tell me what I want to hear. 'cause usually when they tell me what I don't want to hear, it involves me going and buying something expensive afterwards. Like last winter, I broke the coupler in the driveshaft of the old girl, everybody told me it was the clutch. I didnt think it was because I still have hydraulics and PTO. so I spent $700 on a clutch, tractor still didnt move. FAIL.

Ferguson's & Massey Fergusons carried the marks of Harry Ferguson through the '80's. You'll see visual simularities to this day. The "mark" I was referring to is the utter simplicity that Ferguson tried to build into every tractor he sold. The 3-point hitch/draft control was the "brains" of the operation, and everything else was simple, basic, easy to work on, inexpensive, and reliable. You stop and think about it, that's a tough act to beat. Once you "learn yerself" on 'em, there's not much an average wrench spinner can't work on. And with a handful of tools at that. If you ever have the opportunity, grab a SERVICE MANUAL for your tractor. (They're all over feebay) Well explained, well illustrated, they're handier'n a 3rd hand.

Tested flow on a 35 is 3.5gpm. The 135/150 bumped up to 4.8gpm, while the bigger 165 was tested @ 4.5gpm Not a big number by todays standards. They still get the job done...I'm still scratching around trying to find the tested psi and the relief psi on each. Got it here somewhere.....

There's a plug on the LEFT side of the transmission, right next to the clutch pedal, near the top.... I've seen many a good loader and/or log splitter hyd. circuit that uses that plug as a return port. Looks kinda awkward, but it isn't really if things are plumbed neatly. I ran my first ever log splitter that way for years.

My 150 is 40 years old, about 3520hrs, give or take a few minutes, and still has the original clutch. I'm gonna have to give in and split it sooner or later, I know. A clutch shop near here will grind the flywheel, rebuild the clutch, and even toss in a pilot tool for right at $300. I split the tractor, R&R the clutch/flywheel, then re-assemble. My son and I have done a few 135's, and can average under 10 man hours if we REALLY get after it. Gonna go that route most likely.

 

[Massey_lover]

Well, I went and got the haybine, sure makes the old 134 work to pick that up though, ended up using a 3/8-1/2" male to male elbow that i found in the shed, and an extra quick connect that the boss gave me. ran into a snag though, the cylinder on the haybine had 2 hoses, had to bleed all the oil outta the retract hose so that I could lift it, not a big deal

 

[Soundguy]

will he have to lock or chain his 3pt arms down to do this.. like on a ford? IE.. using the 3pt contral as a SA hyds spool, with the oil exhausting back thru the same hose?


soundguy

It's been 35 years since we used a single action cylinder on dads old MF50. I removed the fittings when they started leaking years ago, so I don't have any way of taking a picture....

But....You can tap into the internal hydraulics and control a single acting remote cylinder with the position control lever of the 3-point hitch. Very simple, and very economic to do.... Down side is, you can't use 3-point AND remote at the same time. The 50 is essentially the same as a TO35/MF35.

The port is a (can't recall if it's 1/2" or 3/8" pipe thread) plug on the side (edge) of the lift cover very near the lift control quadrant. (allen head plug)

MF50 is a low volume/high pressure system. Seems like flow is less than 4gpm, but more than adequate for the needs you mentioned. No need to over complicate the issue.

 

[Soundguy]

oops.. I see i missed it burried in a message further up.

soundguy

 

[Massey_lover]

oops.. I see i missed it burried in a message further up.

soundguy

happens to everyone, sometime in life

 

[Farmwithjunk]

will he have to lock or chain his 3pt arms down to do this.. like on a ford? IE.. using the 3pt contral as a SA hyds spool, with the oil exhausting back thru the same hose?


soundguy

Ferguson/Massey Ferguson offered "drawbar stays" back in the day. They attached to the tractor with a long pin, just below the top link, and extended to the ends of the draft arms, attaching by way of the lower link pins.....(That aughtta confuse everyone) They held the 9-hole 3-point drawbar in a fixed position. It ALSO held the draft arms fixed so the single acting remote could work properly WITHOUT the draft arms moving. I've got a couple pairs floating around the shop (somewhere...) I've seen 'em @ TSC also. IIRC, they work on Fords too.