Finally got me a REAL Truck

[RoyJackson]

Thats what kinda what I was afraid of. I dont want a little leak turning into a big leak

Of my current vehichles:

2001 saturn...135000 miles
2008 Nissan Sentra...75000miles
And the truck I traded in, A 2003 silverado w/105000 miles,

NONE of them leaked a drop at all. They were ALL garage kept so I would know.

I'm going to suggest you get that engine steam cleaned, then try to determine where the drips are coming from. Could be something as simple as a few drops from a breather or a poorly installed oil filter.
As you wrote, it is a used vehicle and liked any purchase of a used...well, anything...there is a degree of risk. But don't get paranoid over a few drops of oil...

 

[HHR]

No way I'd trade back into a 5.9

Have you ever had any emissions related problems with your 6.7L? I have heard that that soot builds up ahead of the SCR unit and and causes turbo problems.

 

[timswi]

Not true. I have owned more GM cars than any other single brand. GM trucks I do not care for, especially when it comes to HD trucks. I just feel they should be solid front axle.


Chris

I have had both independent and solid axle trucks. The only purpose that "might" make sense is snow plowing. Other than that, I don't see the difference. Ball joints and suspension parts go bad as much,if not more, on the solid axle trucks.

The city of Pittsburgh plows with a fleet of 3/4 and 1/2 ton Chevys, and has been for years. Friends who plow also use independent FE GM's and have no complaints about durability..So that kinda rules the plowing issue out.

 

[PoorMansCat]

Just as an aside...
My mechanic put in a splicer u-joint on my F350 that is a grease-able u-joint...
I like it better and I would think that you would too...

You're gonna really like that Cummins...
One tough puller...

I was also going to suggest shopping for Spicer joints... definitely better that "lowest bidder" pieces.

 

[PoorMansCat]

I got a few more questions for the general audiuence here

First of all, thanks to whoever it was that mentioned the ball joints. I checked them out. With front raised, I can use a prybar and there is about 1/4" vertical movement in BOTH ball joints on BOTH sides. I didnt notice much sideways play IE: pulling out on the top of tire and pushing in on bottom and Vice versa.

Definatally worth having them look at thursday when they are replacing the rear u-joint for me:thumbsup:

And I really hate to sound like a knit-picker here, afterall, it is a used truck, but the 3month/3000mile warrenty makes me want to sure up EVERYTHING, so...I parked the truck in the garage overnight, and there is about 3-4 drops of oil on the floor:confused2: And looking at the underside, the front of the oilpan, sway bar, cross member, and some other parts all have a pretty generous coating of greasy packed oil. You know how it gets on the underside of a motor.

Since this is my first diesel...is this anything to be alarmed about? or is it just the nature of the beast?

I really doubt they will be tearing out the motor to seal up the bottom end on this warrenty, BUT...it is listed as being covered on the warrenty sheet...

I would wash it off at a local self service car wash and see if it comes back. could be a sloppy oil change, could be a leaking front seal... check the oil level and make sure its ok and not overfull..

 

[Diamondpilot]

Again, this is not sounding good. It should drip no oil. I have one, a different brand, with 131,000 miles and not a drop.

The GM's are notorious for having a poorly positioned cross member that is a pain when its time for a oil change. There is no way other than a valve like I have in the ones I maintain and a drain hose to prevent coating the frame with oil.:confused2:

Chris

I am sorry, I though we we talking about a 1 ton GM, not a Dodge. Got the threads mixed up.

I have never been under the hood of a Cummins truck so not sure about it. Either way though it should not leak oil. Get it checked asap.

Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have had both independent and solid axle trucks. The only purpose that "might" make sense is snow plowing. Other than that, I don't see the difference. Ball joints and suspension parts go bad as much,if not more, on the solid axle trucks.

The city of Pittsburgh plows with a fleet of 3/4 and 1/2 ton Chevys, and has been for years. Friends who plow also use independent FE GM's and have no complaints about durability..So that kinda rules the plowing issue out.

Plowing is a definite disadvantage when using IFS but look at the ratings of the axles. Low front axle ratings were GM's 3/4 and 1 ton downfall along with lighter frames. The frame issue has been fixed on the 2011 and the IFS has a higher rating now but still does not compare to a solid front axle. They even now advertise that they will handle larger plows in the commercials.

Yes, you can run a plow on a IFS. I have. You wear tires out like crazy. It will work but not nearly as good as a solid front axle.

Chris

 

[tlbuser]

Have you ever had any emissions related problems with your 6.7L? I have heard that that soot builds up ahead of the SCR unit and and causes turbo problems.

None in 91000 miles C&C with aisin tranny and all original. (no tunes or deletes)

 

[sldva00]

... And looking at the underside, the front of the oilpan, sway bar, cross member, and some other parts all have a pretty generous coating of greasy packed oil. You know how it gets on the underside of a motor...

Sounds like it is dripping from the crankcase breather tube/bottle. I'm not sure about 3rd Generation Cummins, but on my 2nd generation (98.5) the crankcase hose ran down the front of the engine and stopped above the axle. When my vacuum pump gave out, there was excess blowby causing oil to leak from the hose. The bottom of my engine looked as you described.

On newer 2nd generation models, the crankcase breather hose is connected to a bottle that leaks oil. The radiator can get clogged up with oil and grime along with the bottom of the engine. I'm not sure how your 3rd generation is set up.

The following links were helpful when I had problems.

Home Page of Mopar1973Man

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/

They're knowledgeable folks on there too.

 

[troutsqueezer]

Since the title of your post is tantamount to saying that my Toyota is not a "real" truck, I feel justified in offering my opinion about Dodge trucks.

It's funny because both of my brothers bought large-sized Dodge trucks and one of them said to me exactly what your title states: " I finally got me a real truck!" After some years have gone by, my truck, with 140K miles on it, stills looks and runs like brand new. Never any problems at all. On the other hand, the oldest brother changed out the rear end in his Ram because it wouldn't handle his huge camping trailer. The other brother, lets just say I've never seen paint peel so badly from a truck only a couple of years old. That is, until he bought the Dodge truck from my oldest brother who said the heck with it. The paint on that second truck started to peel almost the day he brought it home. And I'm not talking about peeling from the hood or roof. On both these trucks the paint peeled from the sides of the truck, in huge chunks. One good thing though, the paint didn't peel right where Dodge spray painted the brand name on the tailgate. You know, when the brand name is spray painted on, ya gotta wonder where else did they cut corners?

After 10 years, guess whose truck is worth more, my Toyota or those big, Dodge Ram trucks?

What if your post title had read "Finally got me a REAL tractor"? How many forum members would take offensive to that? :thumbsup: