Rotary Cutter Rotary Cutter Setup

[deere5105]

We will soon begin our biggest mowing project of the year in getting all of our food plots and roads cut before planting starts. I was able to use my new 3/4" drive socket set to take the blades off my MX6 mower to sharpen. This went much smoother than expected. Still had to use a 3'-4' cheater bar to get the nuts loose.

I have figured out about where I need to be running my top link to allow the mower to follow the ground contours. By running it a little long it seems to give more articulation. The lift height is obviously reduced but the trade off is worth it.

My question is, what is everyone doing with the sway chains while running the mower? I have run them both snug to keep the mower from shifting side to side and loose to allow it to have a little give if it encounters something unexpected. My set up works off of a turn buckle with jamb nuts to hold in place. I have not looked in my manual to see if it specifies. So what is the consensus?

 

[Brian Miller]

I do exactly the same thing you do! I'm not sure if that's the "right" way however.

 

[gwdixon]

You have the mower set up correctly. It should articulate over mounds and depressions just fine with the top link a bit longer.

There should be a device on the mower 3PH top link attachment that will allow for movement as well. The Deere MX6 has a lever-type system that allows the A frame to move from what it looks like in photos.

For your 3/4" drive socket set you might want to consider a air-driven impact wrench. Get a good one (if you have a compressor) and use an adapter to step it up to 3/4" drive. It will find many other uses on farm equipment. Breaker bars get to be old news in a hurry - especially in tight places.

 

[TripleR]

I set mine so there is a little play side to side; always have.

 

[deere5105]

As stated earlier, I have run this cutter both with and without some lateral movement. Out of curiousity, I just pulled up the online manual and the following was stated:

Side Sway: Adjust sway chains or locks/blocks to minimize side movement at all hitch positions.


According to this it seems the cutter should be centered behind the tractor and locked down to prevent lateral movement. I guess my only concern was if it was rigid and contacted something it could make the impact worse.

gwdixon, I have a cheap 1/2" impact and recently got a more heavy duty 1/2". I have not yet got the new one set up. Not sure my current compressor will provide the volume of air necessary to loosen the rough stuff. I think it is a 25 gallon unit with the adjustable regulator. I can get the psi high enough, but don't know if it can keep up with sustained hammering on a tough job.

 

[bilrus61]

Sounds about like the way I do my MX6. I think some side play acts sorta like a shock absorber when you hit the unexpected, and you will. I try to set the top link to get the max float. If I want to increase the lift for transport on a road I just turn the top link to raise the back of the mower. I put the lower attatchment arms pins in the "float" position on my Kubota. It wiggles lots but so far so good.

How sharp did you get the blades? Here I cut so much stuff that I want to leave "frizzed" that I like the blades pretty dull. Did you get them flat out sharp? What does a one inch tree look like cut with a very sharp bushhog blade?

 

[Baby Grand]

<snip>

According to this it seems the cutter should be centered behind the tractor and locked down to prevent lateral movement. I guess my only concern was if it was rigid and contacted something it could make the impact worse.

<snip>

That's always been my thinking. Also, my dealer suggested allowing some side to side sway, so I pin the side links in the "float" position, too.

 

[TripleR]

All of our tractors with pin adjustment hitches allow "some" side to side movement; minimize, but not eliminate. We only have one tractor with turnbuckles and I hate it.

On our old Fords the "stabilizer bars" were solid and we bent them pretty often.

 

[EddieWalker]

I keep my turnbuckles tight on my lift arms and my top link very loose. I like to have lots of articulation on my mower, and rarely have a need to lift it. Even with it really loose, I can still lift it if I have to, but I can't remember the last time was when I needed to lift it.

Eddie

 

[Marveltone]

I have the turnbuckles. I allow for just enough play to get the arms on the implement. This allows for just a little side play, but never any danger of anything touching the tires.

Joe