Mowing BX1860 OVERHEATS (?)

   / BX1860 OVERHEATS (?)
  • Thread Starter
#11  
From reading other posts, I kinda wondered about the 1/4" from the red zone but apparently there are at least two of us with this condition. Anyone else?
 
   / BX1860 OVERHEATS (?) #12  
From reading other posts, I kinda wondered about the 1/4" from the red zone but apparently there are at least two of us with this condition. Anyone else?
Get the dealer you purchased the tractor from re-involved, and don't take "oh, they all do that" for an answer. The temperature gauge showing red during mowing with a 48" MMM is not normal. Something is amiss.

If you don't get attention and subsequently productive action, escalate to Kubota's regional rep and request (via certified letter to him with copy to the dealer) that Kubota specify, in writing, that operation of the tractor with the temperature gauge in the red is in fact normal and is not in any way detrimental to the lifespan of the engine and/or drivetrain -- and furthermore that if any issues arise you will expect Kubota and/or the dealer to cover all associated parts and labor to repair. That will get their attention.

This issue could be as simple as accumulation of debris around the radiator or perhaps it is representative of a larger, more complex problem (for example, a blocked water or oil passage).

Wrooster
 
   / BX1860 OVERHEATS (?) #13  
I have a BX2350 and it gets within a 1/4" to 1/2" of the red when mowing when its hot outside. Any other kind of work and it doesn't even get close. My dealer told me of this when he dropped the tractor off and says it's normal. If I don't keep the radiator and screen clean it would get into the red if I didn't stop and clean them.

He also said they took the infrared devices to them and found they don't run too hot.
 
   / BX1860 OVERHEATS (?) #14  
I have a B7800 that used to overheat each summer. Posted to this forum and someone suggested that I take out the antifreeze in the summer and go with straight water. Solved my problem immediately. Just don't forget to put the antifreeze back in for winter.
 
   / BX1860 OVERHEATS (?)
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Seriously....???? I thought antifreeze had a higher boiling point, contains anticorrosion additives and lubes the water pump.
 
   / BX1860 OVERHEATS (?) #16  
Seriously....???? I thought antifreeze had a higher boiling point, contains anticorrosion additives and lubes the water pump.
It does when mixed correctly:D
 
   / BX1860 OVERHEATS (?) #17  
In this type of water cooled engine application, pure water is the most efficient coolant. In contrast to a 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze, pure water has over twice the thermal conductivity and nearly twice the heat capacity. Said another way, water in the cooling system is capable of transferring twice as much heat out of the same system as compared to a 50/50 glycol coolant and water solution.

In summary, engine operating temperature will be reduced when using pure water as coolant. Temperatures can be reduced even further using a small amount of surfactant additive. Race cars, for example, use pure water plus surfactant if the series rules allow. Otherwise, pure water.

The primary downsides of using pure water as coolant include increased galvanic activity (read: corrosion) and freezing below 0'C.

More technical data is here:
http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/WaterWetter%20Tech%20Info.pdf

Wrooster
 
   / BX1860 OVERHEATS (?) #18  
(thread hijack)

wrooster - Can you give me a make/model on the 3PH aerator? Does it follow the side-to-side changes in terrain OK?

(sorry for the hijack)
 
   / BX1860 OVERHEATS (?) #19  
In this type of water cooled engine application, pure water is the most efficient coolant. In contrast to a 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze, pure water has over twice the thermal conductivity and nearly twice the heat capacity. Said another way, water in the cooling system is capable of transferring twice as much heat out of the same system as compared to a 50/50 glycol coolant and water solution.

In summary, engine operating temperature will be reduced when using pure water as coolant. Temperatures can be reduced even further using a small amount of surfactant additive. Race cars, for example, use pure water plus surfactant if the series rules allow. Otherwise, pure water.

The primary downsides of using pure water as coolant include increased galvanic activity (read: corrosion) and freezing below 0'C.

More technical data is here:
http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/WaterWetter%20Tech%20Info.pdf

Wrooster
I am going to post this at the risk of being called a troll.

I fail to see the connection between the Ad or whatever it was you posted and this situation.

From your link:
COOLING SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS
The conventional spark ignition gasoline engine is
not a very efficient powerplant. A considerable
amount of the available fuel energy must be rejected
from the metal combustion chamber parts by the
coolant and dispersed to the atmosphere through the
radiator. This heat rejection is necessary in order to
prevent thermal fatigue of the pistons, cylinder walls,
and the cylinder head. Another problem is that the
combustion chamber must be cooled enough to prevent
preignition and detonation

Last I looked the BX series is diesel.
 
   / BX1860 OVERHEATS (?) #20  
The primary downsides of using pure water as coolant include increased galvanic activity (read: corrosion) and freezing below 0'C.


Wrooster[/QUOTE]

Not to mention cavitation which can ruin an engine block.
If you want to run water, be my guest. Properly mixed anti-freeze does raise the boiling point reduce corrosion lube the water pump and reduce cavitation.
mreatwork's IR temps do not indicate an overheat, why run water (no benefit in this case)
 
 
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