Ford 1620 power loss under load

[tryentolearn]

I have owned the tractor for a year. I did not have the problem before I serviced it but the first time I bled the fuel system after I changed the filter I didn't open the lines at the injectors I only bled it at the pump. Then I noticed the problem with the loss in power.
I never opened the injector lines till I read some forums and realized I didn't bleed the lines at the injectors. Thats when I decided to bleed them again and now I still have the problem. I didn't see any bubbles around the base of the other 2 injectors. Tomorrow I will start it and let it run till hot and see if it stops bubbling. I just figured it could suck air there.

 

[Jerry/MT]

I removed the filter and did the entire bleeding process again. No change. I did feel like when bleeding at the injector lines that 1 of the 3 was not spitting as much fuel. Since I had to get on my tractor to push in pedal so I can turn the key I was only able to see the top of the line where I broke open each line to bleed at the injectors. I messed around pulled off the injector line and blew it out to make sure there was no obstruction. After re-assemble and bleeding again I noticed some bubbles at the base of the injector where it tightens into the engine. I don't have a wrench big enough for it and the crescent wrench is to big. I need to go buy a bigger wrench, size unknown, bigger than my 3/4" and 18 mm. Anyone know the size? Or do I need to take off the injector assembly and get a socket on it? Is there a specific torque setting? Any ideas about this will help. Do you think this could be causing my loss in power?

Did you bleed the filter first then go to the pump and then to the injectors?

 

[Jerry/MT]

I removed the filter and did the entire bleeding process again. No change. I did feel like when bleeding at the injector lines that 1 of the 3 was not spitting as much fuel. Since I had to get on my tractor to push in pedal so I can turn the key I was only able to see the top of the line where I broke open each line to bleed at the injectors. I messed around pulled off the injector line and blew it out to make sure there was no obstruction. After re-assemble and bleeding again I noticed some bubbles at the base of the injector where it tightens into the engine. I don't have a wrench big enough for it and the crescent wrench is to big. I need to go buy a bigger wrench, size unknown, bigger than my 3/4" and 18 mm. Anyone know the size? Or do I need to take off the injector assembly and get a socket on it? Is there a specific torque setting? Any ideas about this will help. Do you think this could be causing my loss in power?

Did you bleed the filter first then the pump and then the injectors? It sounds like you have air at the injectors.

 

[tryentolearn]

The very first time after I changed the filter I only bled it at the injector pump. After this is when I noticed the issue.
Since then I have taken the fuel filter back off and re-bled the system in order of fuel filter first, second at the injector pump, third broke open the injector lines going into engine and turned key till I saw some fuel coming out. Tightened back down and still same issue.

 

[dqdave1]

hope you have diesel in the tank and not gas

 

[tryentolearn]

Ok well there has been a change in the symptoms. Today I went out and started the tractor so I could move it out of the way to get my other mower out. When I started backing out the hydraulics felt more responsive. So I took it to my driveway (which is a steep hill) and I put the tractor at 2000 rpm and in low range. I pushed the pedal to the floor and the tractor only went to 1900 rpm and that is what it stayed at up the hill. Then I put the tractor in medium range and pushed the pedal to the floor and the tractor went to 1700 rpm but then recovered and went to 1900 rpm up the hill. Then I put it in high range and pushed the pedal to the floor and the tractor went to 1000 rpm and almost wants to die. I know that in the past that I could run it in high with no problems. So now the problem is changing b/c before I tested it in all three ranges high, med, low and the tractor wanted to die. I even went ahead and mowed with it med range and it seemed fine. But I was staring at the smoke stack wondering if it was putting out normals smoke fuels. You should always be able to see slight exhaust rite? I mean it has to be the rite angle and background to see the exhaust at all.

So is it a blockage that is moving in the fuel system b/c obviously when in high and full pedal you are asking for a lot of fuel. Or is it a hydrostat transmission problem? any thoughts?

 

[Jerry/MT]

Ok well there has been a change in the symptoms. Today I went out and started the tractor so I could move it out of the way to get my other mower out. When I started backing out the hydraulics felt more responsive. So I took it to my driveway (which is a steep hill) and I put the tractor at 2000 rpm and in low range. I pushed the pedal to the floor and the tractor only went to 1900 rpm and that is what it stayed at up the hill. Then I put the tractor in medium range and pushed the pedal to the floor and the tractor went to 1700 rpm but then recovered and went to 1900 rpm up the hill. Then I put it in high range and pushed the pedal to the floor and the tractor went to 1000 rpm and almost wants to die. I know that in the past that I could run it in high with no problems. So now the problem is changing b/c before I tested it in all three ranges high, med, low and the tractor wanted to die. I even went ahead and mowed with it med range and it seemed fine. But I was staring at the smoke stack wondering if it was putting out normals smoke fuels. You should always be able to see slight exhaust rite? I mean it has to be the rite angle and background to see the exhaust at all.

So is it a blockage that is moving in the fuel system b/c obviously when in high and full pedal you are asking for a lot of fuel. Or is it a hydrostat transmission problem? any thoughts?

Seeing black smoke is an indication of unburned fuel, a sign of overfueling.so you shouldn't necessaarily see any exhaust smoke. Sometimes if you idle for a long time and then start moving, you blow out some carbon that accumulates in the exhaust system because of cooler gas temperatures that occur at while idling is not conducive to complete combustion.

Did you ever check the tank strainer and the fuel cap vent as I recommended? They can limit fuel flow if there is some clogging of either one or both. People have had some problems with plastic chips from the tank manufacturing process getting caught in fuel lines limiting power.

As long as you are not really loading the tractor, just driving it around (even climbing a hill is not a heavy load situation) and you are still having an inability to get the engine speed you want , that's pretty indicative to me of a a fuel delivery restriction. So check you cap vent and your strainer and blow back on the line that runs from the filter to the stariner with compressed air.

I just think that your syptoms are indicative of a lack of proper fuel delivery.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

I keep rereading your original post. You say that you are bleeding the injectors while cranking the engine. Try bleeding them while it is idling. Start the tractor and let it idle and crack each line at the injector.As you crack each line that cyl should go dead. When you tighten the line the cyl should start fireing again. See if there are any air bubbles. I still think it is a fuel issue.
Bill

 

[tryentolearn]

I agree it is fuel related. I went to New Holland website and looked at the parts breakdown for the tank to filter area. There is no additional screen to check. It appears to be getting air. If I take of my fuel lid on top and try will that verify vent is not blocked?
As for opening the line while tractor is running, is this a good thing for the engine to stop a cylinder?

 

[Jerry/MT]

I agree it is fuel related. I went to New Holland website and looked at the parts breakdown for the tank to filter area. There is no additional screen to check. It appears to be getting air. If I take of my fuel lid on top and try will that verify vent is not blocked?
As for opening the line while tractor is running, is this a good thing for the engine to stop a cylinder?

It may not show it in the parts break down but I'll bet there is one there. Is there a shut off valve at the tank bottom? If there is then the should be a screen on that valve. Even if it doesn't there could be some crap and corruption partially blocking the tank exit or the line between the tank and the filter. check it out. What have you got to lose?