So P.O.'ed I can't even see straight....

   / So P.O.'ed I can't even see straight....
  • Thread Starter
#51  
Cheap burrs yes. Good burrs no.

Much like drill bits it comes down to money. Spend some and you can get quality Made in US or europe.

The burr's I've been using are all made in USA. The ones on order are also. Harder to find 6" long extended burrs that have 1/4" diameter cutters. Have a cylinder with end cutter, ball and a ball on a flex rod.

The drill bits were at best putting out a fine dust. The carbide burrs turned the VA thing into slivers and quick. I only wish they were a weeee bit longer!

Oh, for those of us that only infrequently use burrs, the new ones that are sharp cut sooooo much better. It's amazing! :laughing:
 
   / So P.O.'ed I can't even see straight....
  • Thread Starter
#52  
Quick update:

Success! The bolt end is now out. Used an Irwin #5 ezout and a 19/64 drill after grinding out the majority of the old POS #*%^&#$(@#)@%!! Vermont American thing.

Now to get a replacement bolt. What is better than gr 8?
 
   / So P.O.'ed I can't even see straight.... #53  
Quick update:

Success! The bolt end is now out. Used an Irwin #5 ezout and a 19/64 drill after grinding out the majority of the old POS #*%^&#$(@#)@%!! Vermont American thing.

Now to get a replacement bolt. What is better than gr 8?

There are stronger bolts but Grade 8 is all your realistically going to find. Try and find a decent brand of Gr 8 and you should be ok.
 
   / So P.O.'ed I can't even see straight.... #54  
Nope, it isn't...

Most folks I've heard of breaking taps forget to back them out a 1/4 turn for every turn cutting a thread. Backing out, for those who don't know, clears the chips out of the tap.
And not using enough cutting fluid or other lubricant...

Good Afternoon Roy,
Actually your not clearing the chips out, you are just breaking the spiral chip created in the tapping process... by using this procedure your chances of breaking the tap are greatly reduced...

The only way to clear the chips from the hole being tapped, are to remove the tap completely and blow the chips out or use a small magnet...

Im sure this is probablly what you meant ! :)
 
   / So P.O.'ed I can't even see straight.... #55  
All I know is, if you don't do it, you don't get very far.

It's another case of something I learned by doing. In this case, I guess I screwed up and did something right.
 
   / So P.O.'ed I can't even see straight....
  • Thread Starter
#56  
Well, I spoke a wee bit too soon. It's only a partial victory for now. I can't get the new bolt to slide in. Aggravating. The engine must have sagged, torqued and twisted a bit while it was supported by only one bolt. Will have to get creative with the application of forces tomorrow to get that one in!
 
   / So P.O.'ed I can't even see straight.... #57  
This is sounding like somewhere I've been. Is the hole alignment issue a result of the forces that broke the other bolt? At any rate, I hope it comes painlessly on the morrow. No crossthreading and things like that.
 
   / So P.O.'ed I can't even see straight....
  • Thread Starter
#58  
After 5-6 hours of extended "fun" trying to get the bolt hole, bolt and the elastomeric wrapped vibration isolator all lined up --- It finally went in.

I tried to wrap a 2 ton come along to edge the engine and the engine cradle into a bit more favorable orientation. After about an hour of messing about, it actually did help some. Unfortunately, the cable then blocked access so I couldn't get the bolt to go in the hole! The last 1/2 hour was trying to get the come along to let go. The position I put it in, blocked the release lever so it was a hard one! Came || that close to cutting the cable but finally got it with a couple pry bars and a screwdriver.

Then tried to move the inner bushing of the isolator by driving nails into the elastomer and forcing it over. Had no success until I heated the nails up red hot. Made a big stink and a lot of smoke, but no real help. To get the nails back out, I had to heat them with a heat gun. Tried the torch, but the elastomer caught fire pretty quick. Probably all the penetrating fluid sprayed to get the original broke bolt to come out.

Finally wound up beveling the bolt end and tapping the threads down a bit smaller and heating the isolator up pretty hot to soften the elastomer. That worked, but the bolt was far from hand tighten! I'm guessing about 50-70 ft-lb of torque to spin it. Naturally, there is no clearance to get an impact on it and with all the stuff in the way, I could only get about 1/10th of a rotation at a time. Did I mention that there is about 2" of thread? I stopped counting at how many times I repositioned the wrench at 200! It was better to count the number of times I barked my knuckles ... ouch.

Anyway. The sucker is back together. Another 45 min maintenance chore that took 5 days!:laughing:
 
   / So P.O.'ed I can't even see straight.... #60  
After 5-6 hours of extended "fun" trying to get the bolt hole, bolt and the elastomeric wrapped vibration isolator all lined up --- It finally went in.

I tried to wrap a 2 ton come along to edge the engine and the engine cradle into a bit more favorable orientation. After about an hour of messing about, it actually did help some. Unfortunately, the cable then blocked access so I couldn't get the bolt to go in the hole! The last 1/2 hour was trying to get the come along to let go. The position I put it in, blocked the release lever so it was a hard one! Came || that close to cutting the cable but finally got it with a couple pry bars and a screwdriver.

Then tried to move the inner bushing of the isolator by driving nails into the elastomer and forcing it over. Had no success until I heated the nails up red hot. Made a big stink and a lot of smoke, but no real help. To get the nails back out, I had to heat them with a heat gun. Tried the torch, but the elastomer caught fire pretty quick. Probably all the penetrating fluid sprayed to get the original broke bolt to come out.

Finally wound up beveling the bolt end and tapping the threads down a bit smaller and heating the isolator up pretty hot to soften the elastomer. That worked, but the bolt was far from hand tighten! I'm guessing about 50-70 ft-lb of torque to spin it. Naturally, there is no clearance to get an impact on it and with all the stuff in the way, I could only get about 1/10th of a rotation at a time. Did I mention that there is about 2" of thread? I stopped counting at how many times I repositioned the wrench at 200! It was better to count the number of times I barked my knuckles ... ouch.

Anyway. The sucker is back together. Another 45 min maintenance chore that took 5 days!:laughing:

Too late now, but a set of flex headed gearwrenches probably would have helped a ton. Money well spent.

Glad you got it fixed. :thumbsup:
 

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