Tires Swapping R4's for Ag wheels and tires

[billybobjimmyjoejack]

Swapping the R1 tires and wheels with the R4 tires and wheels would be the same as changing a set of tires and wheels on your pickup or car. Just jack the tractor up on one end or corner, remove the tire and wheel assemblies and install the new ones. There are no adapters or special tools needed.
If you decide to "load" the rear tires you want to remember that they will be very heavy. When you remove them to swap out to the other tire type you will want to store them standing up so you don't have to lift them up to move them around.
Sticking with the factory tire and wheel sizes is the best way to go, which I think you already figured out.

 

[LD1]

Swapping the R1 tires and wheels with the R4 tires and wheels would be the same as changing a set of tires and wheels on your pickup or car. Just jack the tractor up on one end or corner, remove the tire and wheel assemblies and install the new ones. There are no adapters or special tools needed.
If you decide to "load" the rear tires you want to remember that they will be very heavy. When you remove them to swap out to the other tire type you will want to store them standing up so you don't have to lift them up to move them around.
Sticking with the factory tire and wheel sizes is the best way to go, which I think you already figured out.

 

[jwp]

Not really. Takes about a half hour. Only drawback is the turfs are shorter and had to make drive on platforms to put the FEL on and off. Quick attachment system has minimum height requirement.

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[MHarryE]

My tractor is equipped with a very common size R4 tire, 17.5L x 24. It goes on a 15 inch wide rim. If I had got it with R1 tires the size would have been 14.9 x 26 and they would have been on 13 inch wide rims. The loaded radius is only 0.3 inches different so it matches up good. There is a 16.9 x 24 tire available that fits on a 15 inch rim but it is over 4 inches larger in diameter and the loaded radius is 1.7 inches different. Clearance with fenders (think of mud in the tires) may be an issue, and you also need to have larger fronts. Sounds like a challenge if you want to keep the same rim unless you want to risk mis-matching your tire and rim sizes. We have an older tractor on which we put a wider tire than recommended for the rim but I've never tried putting a tire smaller than the recommended rim width. Sounds a bit risky.

 

[jwp]

Oh no I don't load the ags Property is hilly but have never had any tipping issues. Turfs will slide sidewise on hills if wet. But
Ags dig.

 

[phffft]

Oh no I don't load the ags Property is hilly but have never had any tipping issues. Turfs will slide sidewise on hills if wet. But
Ags dig.

My R4's are loaded, so I was planning to load the Ag's. It made a huge difference on the hills with the R4's, much more stable. I expect the same with the Ag's. I really doubt I'd ever have use for the R4's again. Might try to sell them if I can find someone else who needs them (and one member already PM'd me that he might be interested if I decide to sell).


Thanks for all the info on this guys.

 

[DieselnHooters]

my MX 5000 main task is logging and the R4 are better overall in my case. they are wider hence more stable, they dont rut my logging road quite as much and are more puncture resistant than ags of the same price range.

the secondary task is loader work, mainly maintaining said logging road, they shine there also, the fronts wont flex at all even with a full bucket of gravel

of course if i was constantly in deep muck or snow I might prefer R1, that way i could get stuck in deeper stuff

oh and R4 last longer too

 

[ovrszd]

Only the ratio between the front and rear tire diameters(circumference really) has to remain the same, so any two sizes of tires that keep the ratio the same and will not bind in 4wd.
Maybe their aren't practical R1 tire sizes that work for the R4 rim widths? I find it a bit hard to believe that tractor tires for CUTs are all that sensitive to rim widths anyways, going by what people get away with on car tires...


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It's not the width that's the problem, it's the diameter, i.e., 15" versus16.5" or whatever applies.

 

[ovrszd]

my MX 5000 main task is logging and the R4 are better overall in my case. they are wider hence more stable, they dont rut my logging road quite as much and are more puncture resistant than ags of the same price range.

the secondary task is loader work, mainly maintaining said logging road, they shine there also, the fronts wont flex at all even with a full bucket of gravel

of course if i was constantly in deep muck or snow I might prefer R1, that way i could get stuck in deeper stuff

oh and R4 last longer too

This is my take on all this as well. I believe my R4s to be a lot tougher working in the timber. I also believe them to have a better load capacity rating and better loader use stability. They just don't like deep mud.

I grooved my rears which noticeably helped on hard surfaces. Not a noticeable difference in deep mud though. Can't find a pic, I'll look on the home computer later.

 

[boggen]

tread left on tires tires can make a huge difference on traction.

weight also can make a huge difference on traction. (hence folks stating to fill rear tires with a liquid, or stating loaded rear tires)

chains around rear tires can help some to, pending on conditions.

R4 tires (industrial tires), they are wide enough, that they tend to "hydroplane" in idea on mud. and never really sink there treads in deep enough to keep traction. hence folks saying R4's like to slide on hills.

R1 tires (ag's) there not as wide. as R4 tires. and in idea R4's are a butter knife and R1's are sharp steak knife. that sink some but allow more tread to bite in, and keep on going.

turf tires and r4 tires, you are more likely be able to just swap out tires.
but when changing to R1 tires you will more likely need to get new rims as well. why? width of the tire itself. R1's have a smaller width to them. while turf and r4 tires have like same widths.

4x4 or rather make that MFWD
MFWD = smaller front tire vs larger back tire, gearing allows front tires to spin faster than rear tires to compensate for difference in diameter of tires.
if you mis-match front and rear tires as in (diameter) and you get on hard ground. you can bind the gearing up. and puts a lot more stress on the overall gearing on the machine. other words rear tires might not be spinning fast enough, and front tires pull the machine, or another example front tires are not spinning fast enough, and rear tires end up pushing the machine.
not sure if operators manual or shop manual. one of them should give a "ratio" for front and rear tire sizing or perhaps gear ratio. that a tire place should be able to use to find tires for you.

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open your phone book for tire places. ((there be alot)) and just start calling places. eventually you will find someone that either sells ag tires, or knows of a place or 2 to call, to see about agriculture tires eerrr tractor tires.

also double check internet for "agriculture tires" it pays to take some extra time to call places up to 2 hours away. prices can vary wildly. also you will start picking up on "off bran name tires" that can be half the cost of more commonly known tire manufacturers.

check your PLY rating for tires. myself tend to go with a heavier ply rating, 8 to 10. makes for a rougher ride, but from understanding, less risk of a puncher due to a thorn or like. (harder rubber, and/or thicker rubber that makes up the tire)

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dealing with old R4 tires and rims. you may not see much back, places may not be able to legally re-sale the tires. due to being used. you may find placing ad on ebay or Craigslist, and just letting time do its thing. to get a good portion of money back on R4 tires.