2720 options & implements to get?

[watersniper]

I have narrowed my search to a 2720 over the Kubota offerings. Now I need to decide what options and implements to get.

The basic setup will be 2720, 200cx FEL, 62D mower deck, 72" rear blade with skid shoes, turf tires.
I plan to use the tractor as my main mower on flat ground, hence the turf tires. This will also be my snow removal machine for a 650 ft. drive. Occasional loader work and garden plowing/turning/tilling are the plan.


The options I am not sure weather I need or not are:
Independent lift kit
Mid Mower-Loader Mechanical Diverter

The accessories I know I need:
TIRE CHAINS

The Implements I am considering buying new/used later or renting as needed:
Single bottom plow- will a double plow work on this size tractor? will either work at all with R3's?
5-6' 3PH disc
Rototiller
Middle Buster (to turn the garden, then disc?)
Obviously I don't need a tiller, a plow AND a middle buster but those were the options I was looking at.

 

[KennyG]

I have a 2320 with 62D. A number of people feel the independent lift kit is not necessary since you usually don't use the 3 pt. while mowing, but I have it and like the way it works. I don't have the diverter since I never mow with the loader still in place. Think through it for your own situation.

Your location is not clear, but assuming you are in the Great Lakes area, think twice about the turf tires. I have R4's and with sandy clay, really don't have any problem with marking the grass. Unless you intend to mow when it's really wet or have a constantly wet area, the turf tires probably aren't necessary.

Given your interest in plows, tillers etc, turf tires won't work very well. Also, I have several hundred feet of driveway in the lake effect area, clear it with the loader and blade with no problem. I have R4's, unweighted and no chains. I'd suggest you try it out without chains before investing in them. A CUT is a lot different than a garden tractor. :thumbsup:

 

[watersniper]

I watch my neighbor use his Kubota to mow with the FEL attached and it looks like a pain to mow around the landscaping... So I always thought I would drop my loader for mowing. So it sounds like I don't need/want the diverter...

I AM in NW OH, although our soil is more clay/loame. Wish I had some sand in there! I have very few days when the lawn is dried out but growing. It's either drought dormant or wet here. Then again I am saying this based upon the record rainfall we have had this year! Sounds like I need to test the R4's on the lawn at the tractor store and see how bad they mark things up when turning... I just figured the R4's would tear things up when I turned around obsticles.

 

[billb3]

service manual
don't wait till you need it
and if you're lucky, if you have it you will never need it.

There are some parts that really should be in the owner's manual.

 

[glc24]

Sounds like I need to test the R4's on the lawn at the tractor store and see how bad they mark things up when turning... I just figured the R4's would tear things up when I turned around obsticles.

Nope,not at all.
It all depends on how wet it might be ,and how heavy your foot is.
Myself,I don't have any issues with R4s.


Greg

 

[pdp11]

I have a 2520 very similar to your setup; 200CX, 62D, 60" RB. I do have both the independent lift and the diverter valve. I also have R4 tires.

I ended up with the Frontier RB2060 60" rear blade because the dealer had it in stock and made me a good deal. Honestly, I like the fact that it's not wider given how I use it on my driveway.

As far as the independent lift and diverter valve go, there are arguments both ways on having them or not. I bought the 2520 because of the convenience it offered over other models. As a result, I saw both of these options as enhancing that convenience, which they do.

Besides not tying the mower lift to the 3PH, the argument I would make in favor of independent lift is that it offers a much easier way to lock the deck in the raised position. You can do that right from the seat with the height control knob.

The diverter valve is also convenient, but at a price that may be arguably high. Yes, I typically take the FEL off when I mow. But I often don't take the mower off when I use the FEL. The first time you put the FEL on, then realize you forgot to raise the mower and lock it in place, you will understand the value of the diverter valve. I like being able to leave the independent lift hoses connected all the time. Is it worth the price of the diverter valve? That's the question.

There are many people who feel strongly about turf vs R4 tires. I have the R4's, with the rears fluid filled. I have no problems with R4 tires on my soil and grass type here in NC. I will tell you that it is actually the front tires that can cause damage when you turn in a tight circle. If you want to rip up the lawn, engage the MFWD and the front tires will definitely rip it up. If you are going to do any serious landscaping work with the FEL or the rear blade where you are actually moving or grading soil, you will want the R4 tires instead of turfs. When dragging a 72" rear blade, turf tires will lose traction easily.

I also have an I-Match hitch, and I would highly recommend that to allow you to easily connect and disconnect the rear blade. It is a real convenience, especially if you have a prop rod stand on the RB like mine does.

 

[Artesia Aggie]

I have a 2520 with a JD tiller. Chose the tiller over other options mainly because of the size and weight of the tractor. Using the PTO of the tractor helps with hard soil. Also I second the I-match suggestion. I waited almost year to buy one and I still am kicking myself for waiting.

 

[lost in wisconsin]

I agree with the comments for adding the i-Match. It is a game changer when it comes to implements attaching to the 3 pt hitch.

 

[watersniper]

Oh boy I threw a monkey wrench into the works now...

I am looking at deleting the 62D MMM and going with a zero turn with 54" deck instead. I am also going with the R4 tires for the tilling/loader work.

For the $2500-3000 the 62D costs vs. a $4000 Z425 54" ZTR it might be worth the swap. I have a fair amount of obstacles to mow around. I am affraid the mowing speed gains with the 2720 would be negated by the lack of turning radius. As a comparison I currently use a cub cadet 50" riding mower. It is slow and doesn't cut great.

 

[watersniper]

To clarify I would still be getting the 2720 with loader and rear blade for snow/loader work/tilling/plowing a large garden.

 

[lost in wisconsin]

Watersniper,

I think you will find a fair amount of people on this forum or wherever that have a designated "tractor" for mowing and another tractor for the other work (FEL, blade work, tilling, etc).

I don't think you will be disappointed in your change in plans. And for what it is worth, my grandfather has the JD Z520 ztr...and I have mowed with it at speeds I don't think would be possible or comfortable on my 2520.

Good luck and have fun.

 

[watersniper]

Lost In Wisconsin-

Do you find yourself wanting the 61" bucket? That's the last thing I need to nail down. The dealer keeps quoting me the 61." Everyone I talk to steers me towards the heavier ZTR's. My yard is not pristine... yet. Right now we are looking at the Z655 with 54" deck. They are going to work it into the deal with the 2720.

Secondly- grab a New Glarus Moon Man Pale Ale on my behalf!

Watersniper,

I think you will find a fair amount of people on this forum or wherever that have a designated "tractor" for mowing and another tractor for the other work (FEL, blade work, tilling, etc).

I don't think you will be disappointed in your change in plans. And for what it is worth, my grandfather has the JD Z520 ztr...and I have mowed with it at speeds I don't think would be possible or comfortable on my 2520.

Good luck and have fun.

 

[pdp11]

Oh boy I threw a monkey wrench into the works now...

I am looking at deleting the 62D MMM and going with a zero turn with 54" deck instead. I am also going with the R4 tires for the tilling/loader work.

For the $2500-3000 the 62D costs vs. a $4000 Z425 54" ZTR it might be worth the swap. I have a fair amount of obstacles to mow around. I am affraid the mowing speed gains with the 2720 would be negated by the lack of turning radius. As a comparison I currently use a cub cadet 50" riding mower. It is slow and doesn't cut great.

I have to say that I'm quite happy with the turning radius of my 2520. Sure, it's not zero-turn, but for its size, it turns pretty well. You should demo a 2720 and see how it works for you.

 

[jenkinsph]

I prefer the separate mower and tractor setup just works better for me.

If you do go with a 2720 and turfs recognize that the standard forward rotating tiller is a good choice as it will push the tractor along so it will work well with R3 tires.

 

[revitupfaster]

I have a 2520 with FEL/62D/54" Front Blade/Ballast box & R4 tires, as well as an X495 with the 62C mower.

I agree that you are far better off having a dedicated mower. As others have said, the R4's really aren't that hard on you lawn, especially if you drop the loader when mowing. The issue is the overall weight of the tractor, that can tear up your turf in the soggy spring/fall periods. Even my X495 can leave pretty good marks in those conditions. I just cut my lawn for the last time a few days ago, and even though we have had a number of "dry" days, the ground is still soft enough where the 495 tracks could be easily seen. No big deal really, but I certainy would not have wanted to see the marks the 2520 would leave.

The R4's are a much stiffer tire, and much better suited for loader work. Speaking of loaders, I went with the 53" bucket on mine, (the std 49" just looked a little wimpey, but would probably be the best for actual digging) the 53" is just wide enough to cover the wheel stance of the tractor. Unless you are doing a lot of loading where the extra capacity would help, to me the 61" bucket is getting pretty big, and a lot easier to bash into things, especially if you're not careful backing up and turning at the same time. I know, I've already had to do a repair job on my garage door frame as a result of not paying attention. Whatever size you decide on get your dealer to weld on a hook or 2 to the top of bucket, great for attaching a chain.

As far as snow removal, I have a pretty level drive, about 300' long, and last year, I had no problem at all with the R4's, without chains. Because of recommendations from others here, I did purchase the ballast box, to help with traction, and trust me, it makes a major difference. I was somewhat skeptical as to how much of a difference it would actually make, but to say I was impressed, is an understatement........get a ballast box if you plan on plowing snow. By the way, I live in Southern Ontario, not far from Buffalo NY, and although we don't get the snow Buffalo does, we still get our share.

I didn't get the Independent lift kit or diverter valve, I really can't see when I would want to have independent control over the deck, and the 3pth. In most cases, if you have a rear implement on, you would probably take the deck off. Besides being a fairly expensive option, (especially with the diverter valve), I have read a few posts, that are complaining that the Independent deck cylinder has a tendancy to "leak" down. I went with the deck "lock-up" kit, mainly to lock up the mower lift arms when the mower if off. The lock-up kit doesn't sound all that cheap, just for a couple of pins, brackets and chains (around $175 if memory serves me) but unless you are pretty handy and have the ability to make your own, it's not all that bad........a lot cheaper than buying the independent lift, just for the locking part of it.

One last point, I also bought the "I" Match rear hitch. I don't really have any rear implements, but it sure makes picking up and dropping that ballast box an easy job.

Here's a couple of picks from a last years snow, to give you an idea of my plowing needs.

 

[watersniper]

Looks good! Some day I might add that front blade. I am used to plowing with a big ATV but am gonna try the rear blade and FEL for snow at least this year. The more research I do the better I feel about dropping the mower option and going ZTR.

No doubt there are better ZTR's out there but is the Deere Z655 a bad deal? I think I can get a new one in this bundle deal with the 2720 for about $5000. Would you go for a new mid level mower (Z655) or a used commercial with 500-1000 hours? That's where I am at. I can't swing a separate loan for the 2720 and a ZTR of 4-6k. Bundling it makes this idea work, otherwise I gotta do a cash deal for a lesser mower or a well used commercial one.

 

[yak651]

I have a 2520 with turf tires. I've done landscaping projects with 5' box blade and as long as it's not muddy the turfs hook up fine, with minimal spin in fwd. I have a 647 tiller and don't need fwd to run this in the garden. I would've purchased r4's but I found mine used and it had turfs, I was worried about them when I purchased but now feel no need to change to r4's. I also plow/push snow with it with no problems, as others have said, look at a truck snow tire, it looks like a turf tire more than a r4 tire.

 

[lost in wisconsin]

watersniper,

I apologize for my delayed response and not sure if you made a decision but no...I have never found myself wanting a larger bucket. The 54" makes the most sense for our place and application.

The 61 might make sense if you were using it for snow removal.

 

[KennyG]

I have the 53" bucket on my 2320 and it's nice to be able to get into small spots since it is just a little wider than the tractor. It's kind of OK for me for snow removal since I can do most of my areas with two passes and I'd still have to do two passes with a larger bucket.

HOWEVER - it's way too small for general material hauling like leaves and trash, etc. I'm planning on a set of forks and building a big material box for that stuff. I'm not sure if a 61 would be enough bigger to help much.

 

[watersniper]

I ordered the 2720 with FEL (53" bucket) 72" RB with skid shoes, ballast box, R4's. I got them to add in rear lights- they will install.

Also got the Z655 thrown in to the deal.


Now I'd like to find a tooth bar for the bucket.

Thanks for your assistance guys!