Asphalt milling for Driveway

[Egon]

Sorry, no two drummed vibratory roller but lots of two drum rollers. Haven't ever seen a three drum roller though except in old pictures.

Seen a vibratory roller used for finishing. Last two passes no vib. Gives real good compaction.:thumbsup:

 

[Soundguy]

Sorry, no two drummed vibratory roller but lots of two drum rollers. Haven't ever seen a three drum roller though except in old pictures.

Seen a vibratory roller used for finishing. Last two passes no vib. Gives real good compaction.:thumbsup:

traction rubber rears or 2 drum metal?

large or small?

it's simply not common here in florida. the traction rubber rears can print and mar s-3 surface coarse when in the sun. as for compaction? gravel is non compressible, thus you are only getting consolidation, and surface polishing... a slick rubber roller or smooth steel wheel will give you that. vibratory not needed.

Only time I've ever vibed asphalt was when doing a black base project, and we vibed the slug of black setting right in the box we dug, but when the surface coarse went on, it was back to rubber tire rollers ( traffic roller ) I'd simply be afraid to let the average rent-a-drunk run a vibe on a surface coarse.. especially a rubber traction tire vibe.. a good operator? probably no issue... hard to guarantee that nowadays though... I see all types come thru the hire line.. guys with 30ys exp, and guys that could tear up a 250 pound anvil with a wadded up newspaper in 25 seconds... my luck that would be the guy on t he vibe.. he'd articulate hard, get stuck, dig up the asphalt with a traction tire.. then get straight, and a text or cell call would come in, and he'd set in 1 spot for 5 minutes to take the call, and vibe a divot into t he roadway..

I can't afford chances on mistakes like that. thus we don't run vibes or traction rubbers on finish asphalt.. others may do it differently..

 

[9973720wb19]

my trail kept getting muddy so i had a paving company come in - stone, tar, and mullins - it looks fine and is holding up

 

[Soundguy]

with that post I'm bowing out of the ? conversation?

I've no desire to go back and forth endlessly exploring every concievable possibility and equipment choice n=known to man that a contractor might use to do a project.. or any piece he might substitute if he lack another piece.

As far as I'm concerned you can pave with a bulldozer and dump truck .. seen it done in alaska.. mmmm.. good roads..

later.

 

[RandyBell]

I work for a company that recycles concrete and asphalt and if you keep the asphalt (clean no gravel or dirt) it makes a great product. The gravel and dirt cut down on the AC content in the asphalt, which is what bonds it together. So you see the less other stuff in it the better it will pack and stay in place. I personally prefer the the asphalt, it packs as good or better, and when it gets wet you don't have the layer of mud on top (wife likes this too doesn't track in the house). You can get as fancy as you want putting it down, tailgate it down and spread it out with a grader blade or box scraper, normal traffic will pack it down, if need be dress it later to cut the center and spread it to the tire tracks. We have used it in the quarry for years, helps to keep the dust down.
Good luck, I think you will like it.

Randy

 

[Egon]

traction rubber rears or 2 drum metal?

large or small?/QUOTE]

Large two drum metal static rollers

single drum rubber rear vibratory packer large.

At times an Air on the go rubber tired.

The crews were usually the same fellows from year to year. The fellows running equipment knew more about it than the boss man Usually.

Now what's this about compaction and consolidation?
http://www.highwaysmaintenance.com/compact.htm

 

[timswi]

I work for a company that recycles concrete and asphalt and if you keep the asphalt (clean no gravel or dirt) it makes a great product. The gravel and dirt cut down on the AC content in the asphalt, which is what bonds it together. So you see the less other stuff in it the better it will pack and stay in place. I personally prefer the the asphalt, it packs as good or better, and when it gets wet you don't have the layer of mud on top (wife likes this too doesn't track in the house). You can get as fancy as you want putting it down, tailgate it down and spread it out with a grader blade or box scraper, normal traffic will pack it down, if need be dress it later to cut the center and spread it to the tire tracks. We have used it in the quarry for years, helps to keep the dust down.
Good luck, I think you will like it.

Randy

I was lucky enough to get some fresh millings once (multiple tri-axles) and spread them with an 8N and no roller...Did a great job. Hard to get now..Nobody wanted millings a few years ago, now it's like gold.

 

[cycle_gator]

EdC

I see you are in Eastern, WA. Me too , 70 miles NE of Spokane, at least part of the time, Who do you buy your millings from? I need to dress out an unfinished drive this summer.

 

[vtsnowedin]

Some of this discussion is amusing to someone that has spent some years with a paving crew. Different parts of the country have different climates so they build roads to different standards. A road in Florida is never frozen solid six feet deep and a road in Vermont never gets 110 degree summer temperatures.
So >>> not disagreeing with others from other places I'll tell you how we do it here, and a few other things.
Steel drum front rubber tired rear is for base course, dirt , crushed stone and gravel compaction. They have no water system to keep the roll from picking up asphalt. They only use them on asphalt pavements in emergencies and perhaps on a temporary detour. The standard roller train on a paving job is steel ,rubber, steel. where the first roller is two steel drums that today usually vibrate and today even oscillate in more then just up and down motion. The second rubber tired roller kneads the mix and simulates traffic. If properly skirted to keep the tires hot and properly operated (constant motion) buildup on the tires is not a problem. These are especially useful when paving over rutted pavements as they work the mix down into the ruts where the steel would bridge over them. The finish roller is two steel drums that can vibe if needed but usually runs static and works to remove any roller marks left by the first two rollers. We used to use triple rollers with three steel rolls in a line and they did a very good job as the rolls could be locked into a plane so the weight of both front rolls would all get applied to a high spot ironing it out like a pie crust under a rolling pin. Gone today with the advent of the vibe steel roller.
Vibe rollers stop vibrating when they come to a stop so they don't make a divot. A fool operator can override this switch if he wants but we don't let them.
Adding diesel fuel to asphalt is a matter of how much you add. A little bit just thins the asphalt cement a bit but the right amount will convert the mix to cold patch. That is how they make cold patch. It would take an awful lot to wash the asphalt out of a mix and leave just the aggregate. That said a truck driver washing down his truck body with half a gallon of fuel and letting it all run out onto the finished pavement will make a considerable pothole.
As to the pavement millings. Here they are going for nine bucks a ton if you can get the company to sell them as they recycle them through the plant as 30% of the new mix. Millings from an interstate highway will be much different in quality from those they milled up from poverty lane.
The one thing people fail to consider is that there are no stones in a pavement top course that are larger then a half inch and after the cold planner has ripped the pavement apart a lot of those half inch stones have been broken down finer. If you wash the asphalt out of a sample of millings what is left is a course sand. This is not structurally a good design but if applied in thin lifts as has been suggested above is not a problem. Places where they have been placed a foot deep have had trucks parked on them sink in four inches on a hot day. No amount of compaction can overcome this. If you want to place them deep you need to mix them 50/50 with 3/4 or 1 1/2 concrete stone. Place that where you want it and get it right before you let traffic have it as it reworks very hard.
Enough for now.

 

[Egon]

Many thanks for the up to date information.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: