The nylon bearing grease point is one of the bumps that releases the safety bell. The one that gets grease has a hole in it for a needle greaser attachment on the grease gun.
PTO shaft cannot extend!
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The nylon bearing grease point is one of the bumps that releases the safety bell. The one that gets grease has a hole in it for a needle greaser attachment on the grease gun.
the6shooter
Gold Member
OOOOh so I'm not the only one out here that has done this same thing. Makes me feel better, Theat I am NOT alone. one rule of thumb. As I now do.
pull then apart in the winter or rainy season lub them up first and store them apart. never have had them do it again. Plus it keeps some varmint's honest.
But since you said you moved them a little the P.B. blaster has a way in, spary it down and work it back and fourth and they will seperate.
david
pull then apart in the winter or rainy season lub them up first and store them apart. never have had them do it again. Plus it keeps some varmint's honest.
But since you said you moved them a little the P.B. blaster has a way in, spary it down and work it back and fourth and they will seperate.
david
rambler
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You need to get the penetrating oil in to the middle square (or triange, or I ran into a multi-fluted deal once...) shaft, not the outer sleeve. Often one end is open if not both, so you can get access to the shaft.
You will not be able to remove the safety cover, it only comes off when the pto is apart. You might need to cut it off before this is over.
In addition to the penetration oil (not WD40, but good penetrating stuff) vibration helps. This means pounding on it with a hammer. Unfortunately the shields are in your way, but if you can hammer on the ends a bit (be careful of the bearings and crosses, you want to vibrate it, not break something...) or work out any way to get some beating into it...
The oil should run down into the seam between the 2 haves of the shaft.
Obviously, you will be removing the shaft from the implement, you don't want to damage your implement, and you can get the oil in easier and so forth.
If nothing gets it apart, cut the shields off, and heat it up with a torch. That will get them apart.
--->Paul
You will not be able to remove the safety cover, it only comes off when the pto is apart. You might need to cut it off before this is over.
In addition to the penetration oil (not WD40, but good penetrating stuff) vibration helps. This means pounding on it with a hammer. Unfortunately the shields are in your way, but if you can hammer on the ends a bit (be careful of the bearings and crosses, you want to vibrate it, not break something...) or work out any way to get some beating into it...
The oil should run down into the seam between the 2 haves of the shaft.
Obviously, you will be removing the shaft from the implement, you don't want to damage your implement, and you can get the oil in easier and so forth.
If nothing gets it apart, cut the shields off, and heat it up with a torch. That will get them apart.
--->Paul
284 International
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I had the same problem recently. You can read about my experience, and some tips others have used, in that thread, here. The plastic guards may vary somewhat, but a flsthead screwdriver and some twisting should align the locking tabs and let you get the cover off.
OP
Conservation
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It didn't move a bit for me yesterday. I will fill the inner tube with PB and see what happens after a day of soaking. I think the poster is right about not being able to get the safety shaft off unless you can extend the tube.
Strange, none of my equipment even new came with the chains. The tube spins with the pto, and then spins freely if the plastic is grabbed by something. No lube points that I see.
Strange, none of my equipment even new came with the chains. The tube spins with the pto, and then spins freely if the plastic is grabbed by something. No lube points that I see.
You must have purchased fake black market new equipment then.
Go to a reputable dealer and ask about the chains.
Even older metal tube guards have chains on the bells to be attached to the equipment on one end and the tractor on the other.
A spinning plastic guard is not much safer than the shaft inside. The bearings can become frozen, especially if you don't know how to grease them. The spinning guard can get weeds wrapped up in them.
Didn't you get a manual with your new equipment?
Maybe this jammed shaft incident was really meant to save your body from
being torn up..
The universal joints on each end should have a zerk. Some shafts have one in the middle but most have a slotted hole to squirt some grease on the square shaft. It needs to be put on all 4 sides. The guards have a bearing on each end right behind the bell. A few have a plastic zerk but that usually gets broken so most just have a little hole in one of the retainer buttons on each end. If that is your case, get a little needle adapter that has a zerk input and a tapered stem output with a little hole in the end. Stick the adapter zerk into the fitting on the end of your grease gun and push the little tapered tip against the hole and give a squirt. turn the housing and do it again.
gwdixon
Elite Member
I'll try the penetrating oil explanation one more time.
Take off the PTO shaft from the implement. Stand it upright. Look past the U-joint and down the hole through the middle of the PTO shaft. You should see the end of the other half of the shaft where it slides. (Use a flashlight.) If you can't see it then turn the PTO shaft over and look in the other end.
Spray the lube through the hole so it runs downs the sides of the outside shaft and into the mating surface of the inside shaft. Let gravity be your friend and it will work the lube though the shaft mating surfaces.
Take off the PTO shaft from the implement. Stand it upright. Look past the U-joint and down the hole through the middle of the PTO shaft. You should see the end of the other half of the shaft where it slides. (Use a flashlight.) If you can't see it then turn the PTO shaft over and look in the other end.
Spray the lube through the hole so it runs downs the sides of the outside shaft and into the mating surface of the inside shaft. Let gravity be your friend and it will work the lube though the shaft mating surfaces.
One last thing, and you and PB are on your own...
When trying to remove the universal from the mower end after removing the shear bolt you may find the universal won't pull off the shaft.
Most good mowers have a big "C" snap ring on the shaft to keep the universal on if the bolt breaks. Slide the universal toward the gearbox and you will see the ring near the outer end of the shaft. Remove it and your good to go.....
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Thanks! I had forgotten that (sometimes a big hammer is not the complete answer to all problems)
James K0UA
nickel plate
Veteran Member
The moral of this story is if you leave the mower outside remove the PTO shaft in the fall, clean and lube, stow it it away in a dry area and re-attach in the spring. The mower is still deemed moveable without the PTO attached. I know this is a lot of work for some folks but so is dealing with a rusted stuck PTO shaft.