Loader Home made forks for 1023e FEL

Gregs JD1023 · May 16, 2012

I just completed making a quick attach fork setup for my 1023e FEL. See attachments (hopefully I did them right).

I found some scrap 4x4x1/4" tubing and some 2x2x3/16" tubing in the scrap yard. I then purchased the quick attach hooks (similar to what's on the bucket) from JD parts. I didn't purchase the lower attach pins because they need to be mounted through the metal (as on the bucket) and welded from the back. I couldn't do this with the square tubing so I drilled holes and tapped for bolts. I'm very pleased with the design and function. I'm considering adding a screen guard to protect the tractor grill etc. A grapple cetainly would be nice too.

When I designed it I made a print and could supply to anyone who might be interested. Just let me know.

KennyG · May 16, 2012

If you do want quick attach lower pins, get the proper size three point top link pin (I think a Cat III will be pretty close - 1-1/4 diameter). That will probably be long enough to go through your tubing.

It looks way stronger than anything you can lift with that 1023. Nice finish.

KennyG · May 16, 2012

By the way, how much did the top hooks cost from JD?

rockshaft · May 16, 2012

Looks wicked strong- nice job.
I'm planning to build my own as soon as I get a chance. I have 3/16"x2" tubing that I'm using for most of the parts, and I'm planning on having mine hinge on the upper cross-member. One thing I can't decide on is the taper at the end of the forks, taper under or over (like yours)

Lets see you lifting something with that rig!

Bob77064 · May 16, 2012

Good job, looks great.

creekbend · May 16, 2012

Nice job. :thumbsup:

s219 · May 17, 2012

Really nice work!

Gregs JD1023 · May 21, 2012

Thanks everyone for the kudos. I spent several hours designing & redesigning this attachment. I realize it is over engineered for my size tractor & FEL. However, I couldn't argue with the price of the material (free). I only spent $36 for the bucket hangers from JD and $15 for paint.

In regards to fork taper, I chose top taper because when trying to scoop up a log it might be easier to get under it. Of course the only way I can validate this theory is build another attachment with bottom taper, not! I'll wait for Rockshaft to build one and he can tell us. :laughing:

rockshaft · May 22, 2012

It may be a couple weeks before I get mine completed, but I'll be sure to post some pics. With regard to the tip taper- I've seen plenty with the taper on top like yours Greg. I was thinking that with a hinged design, a taper underneath might be more likely to guide the tines up on top of ground, rather than pierce into it. I'll find out eventually!
Is that a Curtis cab you have for your 1-series? I had a Curtis cab on my 4310 when I lived back in Maine- soft doors and back. It was very well constructed (I installed it myself). Do you have an auxiliary heat as well?

Gregs JD1023 · May 22, 2012

Rockshaft, I'll be interested to see how your fork design works. I take it that since it's hinged (at top??) then the bottom is floating. If so then I think you are on the right track with your logic. My forks are hooked at the top and pinned at the bottom so they won't float.

Yes it's a Curtis cab. It is one of the first production cabs for the 1-series. I had to wait a couple of months after purchasing the tractor to get it. Received it last December. Also had the heater installed. Came in handy while snowblowing. No more snowmobile suits, ear muffs, hat, and looking like a snowman for me. I really like the cab. I added front & rear cab lights. The only issue I have is where they placed the lower left window. It's not in a good location to see when installing either the loader or mower deck.