Ford 641 Workmaster Questions and Advice

   / Ford 641 Workmaster Questions and Advice #21  
Most any tractor that does not require a step or two to reach the seat will tend to run hot bush hogging in that enviroment because the fan sucks all the stuff over the grille/radiator.

Just shutting it off can banging on the grille can help. I have worked a weed or switch like limb up from the bottom to help knock stoff off the radiator.

Blowing it out backwards is most ideal but not practical.

641 is a nice tractor.
 
   / Ford 641 Workmaster Questions and Advice #22  
considering gas has ethanol in it.. and will disolve a significant amount of water in soloution without you know ing it.. if you saw physical water in the sed bowl, that tank is SATURATED. put some more gas in there as well as some heet..or drygass..

make sure you have good fuel flow thru the carb. screw main needle in till it just bottoms.. count turns and then turn back out.

a good 600/601 could tote as high as a 6' mower.. 5' should be no issues.

did it overheat on the gauge? if so, check to make sur ehte radiator core fins are clean. if so.. i'd draint he rad into a bucket and see what you get out. back flush the block and rad with a hose.. replace the thermostat.. in the process of this check the water pump action.

also.. you are mis-identifying sumps and fill points.

filler by shifter is for TRANNY.. there is a drain under tranny... level check is a plug on right side of tranny about een with running board, by right foot.. it's oin tranny casting.. not center housing.

filler under left front of seat is for hyds.. drain is on underside of sump.. level check is via dipstick.

filler under back right of seat is for diffy.. drain is a plug under diffy.. level check is a pip plug in the back left side of the left axle trumpet.

any sumps that are wet.. dump in a couple quarts or more of diesel, and then a couple pints of 90% rubbing alcohol.. run around yard... drain.. refill.

trans and diffy can get 80w90 gear oil or utf meeting m2c134 spec ( walmart/tsc or store brand utf likely ok ).. hyds get utf.. etc.

soundguy



Alright... last question... maybe. I took the tractor out and really tested the workload this weekend. I cut about a two acre field that was totally full of brush. I used a 5ft bush hog with a 40hp gearbox. The cutter worked amazingly well. The field was full of small trees, blackberry bushes and more random weeds and plants. My tractor had a bit of issues with what I believe was a fuel problem. At first I though the bush hog may be too large for the tractor? (what are your thoughts)? But then again, it pulled it and lifted it well. The pto worked fine. Turns out, I think the tractor was sitting for a while at the dealership I bought it from and it gathered some debris/water in the gas tank. I had to empty my sediment bowl twice. The first time it had a healthy does of water in it along with some trash. The second time there was still a little drop or two of water and more debris. My tractor was sputtering when I was cutting and it overheated a little. I cut it off, rested it and it worked great again. I am assuming that this debris is what is causing it? Am I correct in assuming this?

Also, I plan on changing out the hydraulic oil this coming weekend. When I checked the hydraulic fluid and the differential fluid, it was a milky white color. I am assuming that some water may have gotten in it as well. Is there a filter that I need to replace as well? The engine oil was changed when I bought it from the dealer so I think that it is good. I found the reservoir for the hydraulic fluid at the gear shifter and the reservoir in the back behind the seat. Am I missing another reservoir? Thanks for all of your help. Between you and my neighbor, I may actually be getting the hang of this.
 
   / Ford 641 Workmaster Questions and Advice
  • Thread Starter
#23  
considering gas has ethanol in it.. and will disolve a significant amount of water in soloution without you know ing it.. if you saw physical water in the sed bowl, that tank is SATURATED. put some more gas in there as well as some heet..or drygass..

make sure you have good fuel flow thru the carb. screw main needle in till it just bottoms.. count turns and then turn back out.

a good 600/601 could tote as high as a 6' mower.. 5' should be no issues.

did it overheat on the gauge? if so, check to make sur ehte radiator core fins are clean. if so.. i'd draint he rad into a bucket and see what you get out. back flush the block and rad with a hose.. replace the thermostat.. in the process of this check the water pump action.

also.. you are mis-identifying sumps and fill points.

filler by shifter is for TRANNY.. there is a drain under tranny... level check is a plug on right side of tranny about een with running board, by right foot.. it's oin tranny casting.. not center housing.

filler under left front of seat is for hyds.. drain is on underside of sump.. level check is via dipstick.

filler under back right of seat is for diffy.. drain is a plug under diffy.. level check is a pip plug in the back left side of the left axle trumpet.

any sumps that are wet.. dump in a couple quarts or more of diesel, and then a couple pints of 90% rubbing alcohol.. run around yard... drain.. refill.

trans and diffy can get 80w90 gear oil or utf meeting m2c134 spec ( walmart/tsc or store brand utf likely ok ).. hyds get utf.. etc.

soundguy


Alright. I finally bought some fluid. In my It is very vague. My tractor, I believe is a 641 workmaster. It has three forward gears with reverse. In the IT manual, it doesn't list the 641 as a model in the manual but it does list it on the back of the manual. I know for a fact that I have the correct manual. It is just really vague in terms of how much fluid to use.

How much for the trans?
How much for the diffy?
How much for the hydraulics?

I plan on using the same fluid in all three. That is okay to do right? Thanks.
 
   / Ford 641 Workmaster Questions and Advice #24  
Three forward and reverse? A 641 should be four forward and one reverse.
 
   / Ford 641 Workmaster Questions and Advice
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Three forward and reverse? A 641 should be four forward and one reverse.

That is exactly what I was thinking. Maybe I am mistaken. Where the shifter is, it looks as if it is embossed and it only has a 1, 2, and 3. It doesn't have a 4. However, when I look to check the serial number, 641 is the top number and then it has the actual serial number.
 
   / Ford 641 Workmaster Questions and Advice #26  
if a *4* it has 4 gears forward, 1 reverse... shift to 1, pull back.. it's a modified H pattern
 
   / Ford 641 Workmaster Questions and Advice
  • Thread Starter
#27  
if a *4* it has 4 gears forward, 1 reverse... shift to 1, pull back.. it's a modified H pattern

Hi, I will run through the gears and check it out. I have only been in first, second and reverse so far. I'll check it out tomorrow.

Hey soundguy... any idea the capacities of the sumps? Do I need to fill each individual sump or does it circulate throughout the tractor. My neighbor was telling me that all of the fluid could circulate throughout the tractor but he wasn't sure. For example, if I just filled the differential sump then it would cycle itself to the transmission and the hydraulics? Or do I need to fill each individually? Also, do you know the capacities? I can't find them in my IT manual. Thanks guys.


Also, any reason why it only has the numbers 1, 2, and 3 where the shifter is? I can't find the number 4 anywhere?
 
   / Ford 641 Workmaster Questions and Advice #28  
take a pic of your trans top. if it's a single stick and not a 3spd or 5spd. it is got the 4 molded in there.



the entire concept of seperate sump is just that. seperate. thus you need to fill each. 3 fills.. 3 drails.. 3 level checks.

the I&T manual does have it in the front under specifications and capacities.

figure on 5-6g of utf to do all rear sumps.. it's probably something 6-8-6 or 6-8-8 or something like that. i just fill em till the level check is happy then go.. have not really 'measured them vs book.. but know 6g is more than enough... 5 may do it.. dunno without looking at a manual

here' i scanned and uploaded a pic out of my 4000 4 cyl owners manual.. same 4spd trans in all the 00/01/000 4cyl machines. yours is the left pic. see the pattern?
 

Attachments

  • Ford 4000 Owner's Manual Page 8 & 9.jpg
    Ford 4000 Owner's Manual Page 8 & 9.jpg
    997.3 KB · Views: 3,037
   / Ford 641 Workmaster Questions and Advice
  • Thread Starter
#29  
take a pic of your trans top. if it's a single stick and not a 3spd or 5spd. it is got the 4 molded in there.



the entire concept of seperate sump is just that. seperate. thus you need to fill each. 3 fills.. 3 drails.. 3 level checks.

the I&T manual does have it in the front under specifications and capacities.

figure on 5-6g of utf to do all rear sumps.. it's probably something 6-8-6 or 6-8-8 or something like that. i just fill em till the level check is happy then go.. have not really 'measured them vs book.. but know 6g is more than enough... 5 may do it.. dunno without looking at a manual

here' i scanned and uploaded a pic out of my 4000 4 cyl owners manual.. same 4spd trans in all the 00/01/000 4cyl machines. yours is the left pic. see the pattern?


Ok, that looks identical to the area where my shifter is... except there is no 4. That is a little odd.

Anyways, I checked the IT manual again. The listing is as follows:

4 speed Transmission: 6.5 quarts

Differential: 8 quarts

Hydraulic Reservoir: 8quarts (I'm guessing). It appears like this in the manual 8(4). I am assuming that means 8 quarts.

It also says that the crank case holds 5 quarts. What type of fluid do I use in the crankcase?

Also, I just want to clarify, it is perfectly safe and normal to use UTF that meets the specs you mentioned above in the differential, the hydraulic reservoir, and the transmission? Thanks so much guys.
 
   / Ford 641 Workmaster Questions and Advice #30  
is it okay to run an overrunning clutch and a slip clutch at the same time?

Overrunning coupler works like a socket set racket, the tractor will spin the pto shaft in one direction, but the ORC will rachet and allow the bush hog to keep spinning while the tracotr can stop spinning in the other direction. It has on slip or shear fubntion, it is only like a socket set ratchet - a one-way flap valve, if you will. Good to have for any tractor without live pto, as yours is.

Slip clutch will prevent damage of the driveling components _if_ you maintain it and prove it will slip once in a while by loosening it once in a long while and allowing it to slip - knock the rust off it. If you haven't checked it in 5 years, liklely it won't be doing any good at all anyhow. :)

They do different operations, so both are good to have, but often the brush hog has the slip clutch (or a shear bolt) built in. If your mower has a shear bolt, I'd depend on that and not bother with an add-on slip clutch as well - that gets to be a lot of add-on bits to the driveling....

---->Paul
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

Swamp Buggy (A49346)
Swamp Buggy (A49346)
2016 New Holland Boomer 47 4WD Front Loader Utility Tractor with Bush Hog BH16-2 (A50322)
2016 New Holland...
2017 Ford F-250 4x4 Knapheide Service Truck (A50323)
2017 Ford F-250...
2015 KUBOTA 1140CPX RTV (A51406)
2015 KUBOTA...
2014 UTILITY 53X102 DRY VAN TRAILER (A50046)
2014 UTILITY...
2014 Dodge Ram 5500 4x4 Bucket Truck with Altec AT40M - 45FT Boom, Jib Winch and Utility Bed (A51039)
2014 Dodge Ram...
 
Top