frankroberts
Bronze Member
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- Oct 24, 2011
- Messages
- 50
- Tractor
- MF 50
Do you iron a crease in your boxers?
just wondering...
just wondering...
My 1966 Massey 135 Tractor (Pics)
- Thread starter MasseyWV
- Start date
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- massey ferguson 135
By your comment, do you mean that you think I'm being overly detailed in my approach to performing a tractor restoration? If so, all I can say is... to each their own. My Massey 135 tractor was purchased, not only to be used for occasional driveway maintainence and other tasks, but also to give me a "project" to restore. Fortunately, I have the luxury of time to do as much, or as little, as I like.
BTW: I'm more of a briefs kind of guy and I don't do ironing.
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- Mar 11, 2002
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- Central florida
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
on the contrary.. a good refurb is a great thing for the tractor. going over it like you are will yeild you with a good worker and looker for decades to come. and is fun...
Mike476
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2010
- Messages
- 1,080
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- Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia
- Tractor
- MF 135 Z134 Continental, MF 1660 Cab
Nothing wrong with attention to detail, in fact you would not have the interest you have in your progress were you to be simply "throwing it together".
On a different note, since you've apparently rebuilt several motors in the past, any concerns with the lack of cross-hatching on the cylinder walls. Difficult to tell by the photos, there doesn't appear to be a carbon ridge at the top, which if your oil rings were bad for any length of time you might expect, but I would be tempted to mic the cylinders for round and take a close look at them. I've rebuilt a few motors myself and have always been leary of tightening up a top end without paying close attention to the bottom end of the motor. It can come back to bite you down the road.
On a different note, since you've apparently rebuilt several motors in the past, any concerns with the lack of cross-hatching on the cylinder walls. Difficult to tell by the photos, there doesn't appear to be a carbon ridge at the top, which if your oil rings were bad for any length of time you might expect, but I would be tempted to mic the cylinders for round and take a close look at them. I've rebuilt a few motors myself and have always been leary of tightening up a top end without paying close attention to the bottom end of the motor. It can come back to bite you down the road.
I guess I cant believe you are going to this extent and not completing the overhaul of the engine, as long as its apart this far and you are really restoring it why not "make it right"
I had to replace the timimg gears on my Z134 during the overhaul as well as grind the crank, recondition the rods and new sleeves, pistons and mains. just food for thought and money well spent.
I had to replace the timimg gears on my Z134 during the overhaul as well as grind the crank, recondition the rods and new sleeves, pistons and mains. just food for thought and money well spent.
Exactly! Especially the part about it being fun.
There is no crosshatch pattern remaining in the cylinders, but it doesn't concern me because it's simply an indicaton that the rings have fully seated. There are only small traces of carbon present at the top of the cylinders, probably due to oil burning caused by worn valve guides, but there is a very slight wear ridge present in a few places. When the time comes, I definitely plan to carefully measure each cylinder to ensure that it's within tolerances (round and taper) before installing the oil pan and cylinder head.
If parts aren't worn beyond tolerances, I see no need to replace them, which would only be a waste of money.
When the time comes, one possibility I've been considering is installing new rings, then honing the cylinders. It would allow me to properly inspect the pistons and rods, effectively saving money while restoring the cylinders to like-new condition. Assuming that all cylinders are found to be within tolerances when they are measured.
It's easy to say "replace everything", but one has to remember that I have a very limited tractor budget to work with, so I must spend my money wisely.
It's easy to say "replace everything", but one has to remember that I have a very limited tractor budget to work with, so I must spend my money wisely.
Lava Rancher
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- Jun 15, 2012
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- Siskiyou Co., California
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- Massey 135 Multipower / Z145
Why spend money fixing what isn't broken if it is still within tolerances. I'm glad you've been posting your progress. It's illuminating to those of us with less knowledge and experience.
Mike476
Veteran Member
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- Jun 6, 2010
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- Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia
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- MF 135 Z134 Continental, MF 1660 Cab
I agree, and that is exactly what I was referring to. To properly check the cylinders you'll need access to the bottom of the cylinders to measure, which would mean removing the pistons. I would suspect with only around 2000 hours that you'll be fine but with an oil ring possibly going bad on one of your cylinders it would be a shame to bolt her back up to that nicely reconditioned head.
I certainly appreciate trying to remain within the budget, just recommending what I'm sure you've already gone over in your head several times now.
Your recommendations are very good ones, and are right in line with what I've been thinking all along. In fact, you may find my next post very interesting.
