Pavers verses black asphalt driveway??

[smalltown]

Someday when I when the lottery I would like to either install pavers myself in the driveway or have the diveway paved with asphalt.
I know that I need to get estimates for materials for pavers and base etc , and compare that to an estimate for asphalt.
Aside from the above things, and the better looks of pavers there is one issue I have no information about.

Since I am located in the snow belt snow removal is a big concern.
I wonder if there are issues with a rear blade or a possible tractor mounted snowblower hooking onto the pavers and pulling them out or does the snow removal equipment just slide over the seams between pavers without any problem?

I have been pondering this issue for some time and would also like to say that my interest drew me to the project that TXDON is doing in another post. Unfortunately for me Don's project is in Texas where he will not see any snow.
Don if you happen to read this I have nothing, but the highest admiration for the absolutely great job you are doing :thumbsup:

 

[ssrfenton]

We have over 400 feet of asphalt drive installed 3 years ago plus about 900 square feet for parking in Fenton, MI. Every 3 years the asphalt needs a top sealer coat, $400.

Here are my observations. Drive is very smooth and quiet to drive on. The top coat is holding OK but I can see cracks forming with grass growing through.

Any heavy machinery will deform the drive, especially a concrete style truck. You cannot let anything heavy sit on the drive like a iron dumpster in arm weather as this will leave impressions where the feet/supports are. Even when you lay boards under it, the board shape will impress on the asphalt. I don't think you can beat the cost of asphalt with any other product.

We have drive way trees and the roots will deform the surface. I snow blow with a 32 inch walk behind, no problems. In fact the finish after snow clearing is quite awesome and the drive heats well in a little sun. Salting leaves a white finish.

A very nice feature is a stamped concrete boarder. Really adds alot to the appearance. Now the concrete has cracked and heaved slightly in places.

To achieve a perfect finish "all season" then pull out material to the frost line and compact up the 42 inches in 3-5 inch intervals. Now you have secured the base from cold weather heaving. This is alot of material and work but is the only way to ensure you beat the frost line. If you then decide to install pavers they will not move as the ground will be compacted as hard as concrete. The look will be second to none.

Use silica sand to lock and glue the pavers. But the nice feature is that you can replace a section should there be an issue. In most cases labor is the highest cost to pavers, so if you can prep the base you are way ahead of the game.

 

[smalltown]

Thanks ssrfenton that's one aspect of the asphalt being black and absorbing the sun rays to help shed the ice quicker that appeals to me.

 

[mpham]

Pavers are one of the most expensive driveway options. I did my walk with them (worked at a concrete/paver plant)and they move quite a bit in the freeze thaw cycles here in New England. You can't shovel or plow them as it will break off the corners or stop you dead. Most places use a snow blower lifted up a few inches and then a power broom to finish cleaning up. You have to be careful of ice melt also as some will eat the pavers.

 

[mpham]

Here is a quick pic when we installed some of the walk. 24 foot circle.

 

[ssrfenton]

Another option is asphalt with paver edging, looks very nice and you don't ruin the pavers. Very fast to install, good cost point. I still think pavers are suited for Florida, California climates where they hold up, no heaving and snow issues. Also, smaller areas like patios are ok in cold climate but again dig deep.

 

[EddieWalker]

As already stated, pavers are going to be the high end of costs and also have the most maintenance and upkeep. Any movement in the ground, any freezing of water between the pavers and weekd growing between them will mean that they will be moving around. Heavy traffic, vehicles and sharp turns and stops will also loosen them up. While attractive, they are not the most practical material for a road surface.

Asphalt is very nice, a bit pricey, but also very dependent on it's base if it's going to last. If the base moves, the asphault will crack. If the asphault cracks and water gets into it, you will have pot holes. With light traffic and vehicles, it should last a lifetime.

Concrete is comparable to asphault in price, though that seems to vary with location and the price of oil. Concrete has to be done right, but when it is, it's very hard to find a longer lasting, lower maintenance material for a road.

Road base gravel is your cheapest road, and the best bang for your money. It needs maintenance and additional material from time to time, but for less the a quarter the cost of concrete or ashpault, it's not all that much work compared to the cost savings up front.

Eddie

 

[vtsnowedin]

Agree with all the above on quality base. Without it nothing will hold up in the snow belt even concrete. When digging out for the base be sure to shape the sub-grade so it drains and let that water out from the low point with a side drain in pea-stone or a french drain. Also remove any organic black topsoil no matter how deep and backfill with sand gravel or rock. If forty inches is beyond your budget be fussy about the sub-grade and compact it smooth, then put on a foot of clean free draining sand and eight inches of good stony crushed gravel that is as clean as you can find. It should be more then half stones by weight and the sand portion should hale less then 12 percent silt or clay in it. Don't buy the bit about a little extra silt helping it to pack better. Silt when wet equals mud.
Then have it paved by a competent paving crew with two inches of 3/4" binder mix. Use the drive that way for a year or more to let any imperfections in your work show up then repair them and have the pavers come back and put on another inch this time using 1/2 top mix state spec. for interstates. Should be good for twenty years or so depending on the soil type of your sub-grade and the quality of the materials you put in place.

 

[radioman]

I think the pavers wil look awesome for first 10 years, but over time it will shift due to freeze/thaw cycle of northeastern weather. I also happen to prefer blacktop due to fact black color helps to melt snow/ice after its been cleared more then concrete/pavers.

You really gotta have a well drained driveway if you want pavers.

 

[Carl_NH]

I concur the pavers will heave in the winter uncovered - our walkways do even with a good 12" base of stone and stonedust. Like other have said too, asphalt bordered with pavers or what is common here are cobblestones on the border looks very nice.

We had our driveway repaved 8 years ago with 10" base of compacted 3/4 stone then topped with 2-3" coarse paving and 1" top coat. Total was around 4000 SF and cost $4K so about $1 PSF.

Neighbor did his driveway - dug out to 12" and added some stone, then put down ground up asphalt about 6-8" deep and compacted that and left it sit for a year, then regraded, compacted and paved with base and top coat.

In my opinion the ground up asphalt makes an excellent base and his heavy trucks dont make a dent in it (he has construction co) so can get materials at his cost.. that is a difference.