Choosing between 550xp, 346xp and 562xp for a firewood saw

[Bluegill2]

Congrats man!

Keep the old one in good running order for a second saw.

 

[Scooby074]

Congrats man!

Keep the old one in good running order for a second saw.

Thanks.

Ill absolutely keep the 51 as a second saw for around the yard, on the atv and when taking the truck to the woods. Its a great saw for what it is. The new small saws arent anywheres close to the old ones in build quality IMHO.

 

[arrow]

Thanks.

Ill absolutely keep the 51 as a second saw for around the yard, on the atv and when taking the truck to the woods. Its a great saw for what it is. The new small saws arent anywheres close to the old ones in build quality IMHO.

Best of luck with the new saw. I still have a Husky 50 that was given to me by a dear friend before he passed away and you are absolutely right: new saws, in order to have as high as power to weight ratio as possible have sacrificed structural material to gain lightness. I've run over the 50 twice with the tractor . Did have to get a used clutch cover and top handle but its still going

 

[LD1]

:drool::licking::drink:

 

[NIXON]

Congrats !!!! You're going to enjoy using your new saw . Just be sure to follow the instructions on its initial run in , and also be aware that the warm restart procedure is a bit different . You have to got to choke then flip the switch back to high idle .

 

[Scooby074]

Congrats !!!! You're going to enjoy using your new saw . Just be sure to follow the instructions on its initial run in , and also be aware that the warm restart procedure is a bit different . You have to got to choke then flip the switch back to high idle .

That brings up a good question... Ive always been in the "run it like ya stole it" camp.. I never really babied any two strokes during break in other than not running it wide open for several minutes. Ive never had any issues as a result. The manual doesnt really make mention of a specific breakin procedure, all I can find is this:

Running-in
Avoid running at a too high speed for extended periods
during the first 10 hours.

Is there something Ive missed?


Also of interest is Autotune:

Engine adjustment
The following steps should be taken when the chain saw
is started for the first time or when outside circumstances
change (fuel, altitude, air filter etc.): Start the engine.
Accelerate the engine to full throttle and saw a number o
cuts in a thick log (3-5 min.).
The chain saw must be run (8,000 - 12,000 rpm) the entire
time so that the carburettor can adjust itself.

I didnt do the first start, the dealer did.. Wonder if he did a sustained 3 minute cut? to set the AT.

If he didnt, is it possible to or will the AT relearn its programming during use? ie: if I go out and do a sustained wide open cut, will it re-learn ? Or does the computer need to be reset? Reading the quote makes it sound like it will continuously relearn, if you run sustained in a cut

 

[Treemonkey1000]

I can see blue screens flashing and having to "reboot" your saw. :confused2:

 

[Bluegill2]

All you need to do is start cutting fairly good size wood at WOT and avoid WOT at no load.

Mine was a little squirrelly at first, then straighten up and has been flawless for 8 months. Gets stronger with each tank of fuel. I've also had no trouble with warm starts and usually don't set the high idle.

 

[Scooby074]

squirrelley eh?

I ran 2 tanks though it this afternoon. very impressed with the weight and balance.. gobs of power. I bet its twice as fast as my old 51 in the same sized package. Really liking the 18" bar and wondering about a 20

However not all was perfect.

I found that it would bog on acceleration once and a while and the odd time when in a ~18" dried oak i could almost stall it out and I wasnt really pushing.

Is this squirely? The bog is a bit disappointing. Almost like a saw that needs the the L needle adjusted. I guess this must be due to the saw having to learn?

 

[Bluegill2]

Yes, that is the squirrely. It will straighten up with more use.