RDrancher's Photo Thread

   / RDrancher's Photo Thread #221  
That's another fine job, John. That white brick sure looks pretty on that house, but the red dirt will splatter it badly without grass or something around that foundation. I don't see any gutters and we have rain predicted mid-week. Am I being over-reactive? Maybe, but I just don't like the bathtub ring look of nice new brick that gets mud splattered with our red dirt. Your job is great, but you'll have to let me know if I'm right or wrong about the splatter.

BTW: I've seen several stone retainer walls you've done and love 'em. I need to build at least a couple, and I'm quite sure I can't do it all by myself. There's no hurry and it can be done anytime, but if you are over in this Decatur-to-Bowie area sometime, I'd love for you to look at it and put some numbers to it. I have one short 30' wall with a corner that needs to be done first and then a long wall along my yard at the driveway apron. I'll PM you my email and I can send you some photos to get an idea before your having to drive this far. I've seen enough of your work to convince me I've found the right person to do my work. Also, I have a 'few' pieces of equipment to help with the job.:D
 
   / RDrancher's Photo Thread #222  
Why metal culverts? I have one and I've never had any problems with it, but I like plastic with a smooth bore a lot better. The metal one always has sediment in it and the smooth bores are all clean.

Eddie
 
   / RDrancher's Photo Thread
  • Thread Starter
#223  
That's another fine job, John. That white brick sure looks pretty on that house, but the red dirt will splatter it badly without grass or something around that foundation. I don't see any gutters and we have rain predicted mid-week. Am I being over-reactive? Maybe, but I just don't like the bathtub ring look of nice new brick that gets mud splattered with our red dirt. Your job is great, but you'll have to let me know if I'm right or wrong about the splatter.

BTW: I've seen several stone retainer walls you've done and love 'em. I need to build at least a couple, and I'm quite sure I can't do it all by myself. There's no hurry and it can be done anytime, but if you are over in this Decatur-to-Bowie area sometime, I'd love for you to look at it and put some numbers to it. I have one short 30' wall with a corner that needs to be done first and then a long wall along my yard at the driveway apron. I'll PM you my email and I can send you some photos to get an idea before your having to drive this far. I've seen enough of your work to convince me I've found the right person to do my work. Also, I have a 'few' pieces of equipment to help with the job.:D

Rain??? No!!! I've got way too much to do! :D

Jim, I agree on the red dirt / brick issue. It's a pretty typical owner/builder "building steps not in the correct order" scenario. The customer is trying to get a final on the home this Monday. I'm putting in a narrow roadbase drive for now, and they'll pour concrete later.

On your wall, shoot me some info and we'll get together and figure out a plan. :thumbsup:
 
   / RDrancher's Photo Thread
  • Thread Starter
#224  
Why metal culverts? I have one and I've never had any problems with it, but I like plastic with a smooth bore a lot better. The metal one always has sediment in it and the smooth bores are all clean.

Eddie, the county and most cities around here spec steel culverts, the size and the invert elevation. A couple even want concrete pipe. Most of them require permanent, TxDot style, poured-in-place or prefabbed concrete ends too. It's a pain, but that's the way it is.

The only problem I have with ADS pipe is that the company wants 12" of compacted fill above them, unless they're placed below a concrete driveway. A lot of the culverts I set are lucky to get 5" of anything.
 
   / RDrancher's Photo Thread #225  
Thanks for taking the time to post photos and describe your work. I have started getting into the driveway grading business on my days off(I have 30 days at a time). I just read thru all of your post, I have learned alot from them, you do great work. I grew up on a large ag farm, where I learned to run dozers,excavators, dirt pans leveling fields with laser equipment and backhoes, doing every thing from land clearing to maintaining no telling how many miles of field roads. I still work there on my days off also. But, I have people ask me about grading/fixn there driveways. The only thing right now I need to upgrade is my boxblade, I have a 4 ft, I need a 5. I have use of my friends 14' dumptrailer, I use my 4200 deere hyd, and we have a limestone quarry outside of town. My biggest issue is learning how to charge. Thanks again for posting. LUTT
 
   / RDrancher's Photo Thread
  • Thread Starter
#226  
Lutt, you have a PM.
 
   / RDrancher's Photo Thread
  • Thread Starter
#228  
I picked up and dropped off a few culverts for a job today. The project is for a couple of members (husband and wife) here on TBN. Even though the job is quite a ways away from my main stomping grounds, I've been looking forward to it for quite awhile now. Great folks!

BR 07.jpg BR 08.jpg
 
   / RDrancher's Photo Thread
  • Thread Starter
#229  
Did some clearing for a new private drive. Mmmmm...forgot to take pics of the big tree pile.

BR 09.jpg BR 10.jpg BR 11.jpg BR 12.jpg BR 13.jpg
 
   / RDrancher's Photo Thread #230  
I would like to ask a question.If I am out of line,please let me know and we can chat in PM.

In a few years I am planning to build a 30x40 garage.The drive way up is fairly steep grade.From the road to the front of the shop,the vertical rise is 15 feet over a 90 foot run.I will be bringing vehicles in and out with a GVWR of no more than 30,000lbs.What would you suggest for the drive way,pavement or rebar reenforced concrete?What should the thickness be?My building slab will be 6 inch rebar reenforced concrete.The reason I ask is,at my house the driveway pavement mars every time I jack a vehicle up.Heck,my porch swing even marred up in the pavement.
 

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