Haedfacing cutting edges

[orezok]

All of my cutting edges, bucket, box blade etc., are showing significant wear. The dirt out here is a combination of decomposed granite and caliche. It's more like trying to cut through sand paper all the time.

I have a roll of Lincore 60G .045 and a welder that can handle it, but I don't know if it is practical to hardface the cutting edges. I know it is done to bucket lips and sides all the time.

Anyone ever tried this?

If so, can you recommend a pattern and whether you would do the face or back or both.

 

[Egon]

The cutting edges are usually considered replaceable. Other parts of the bucket aren't.:thumbsup:

 

[orezok]

The cutting edges are usually considered replaceable. Other parts of the bucket aren't.:thumbsup:

I know, but with my abrasive soil they don't last long and aren't inexpensive. I have the hard face wire so it's only my labor.

 

[kencunningham]

Well if you build it up and can grind it back to a resonable edge, then you will be better off than you are now. Try one and see how it works, its your time, so its up to you.

 

[CNC Dan]

look arround the web a little and you should be able to find some info on where to ,and where not to, apply the beads for max effect. I thought i had saved it when i found it. if i can find it i'll give the OP a PM.

 

[Tig]

Anyone ever tried this?

If so, can you recommend a pattern and whether you would do the face or back or both.

I did my home made grader cutting edges, but I'm far from qualified to give lessons or advice. I simply used up a bunch of old rod running beads down the cutting edges. Seemed to work well for me.

 

[marnewelding]

cutting and digging edges/teeth are made from various forms of ar plates, along with leading edges. they have been known to crack when trying to weld them. pre-heat to atleast room temp, but i usually pre-heat mine to 175 and a little post heat with fire blanket wrap. check this link out http://www.lincolnelectric.com/asse...facingConsumables-Lincore-LincoreBU/c7710.pdf i HF anything that comes into contact with dirt. and remember to only make 2-3 passes. try to find some dimensions for you blades and weld up and then HF, the wear happens so slowly over time, sometimes it's hard to know where the original metal started. i find this alot in impact housings on rock crushers, they just let them go until it's almost too late.

 

[yomax4]

The reason behind doing squares or triangles when hard surfacing is also to grab the dirt and use it to aide in the wear process. Each bead will scoop up some dirt and that dirt drags through the rest making the dirt responsible for some of the wear protection..Sounds goofy but it's how and why they do it that way. Usually worn parts are worth building up and hard surfacing. You would have to do the math. time is also money.

 

[brain55]

The reason behind doing squares or triangles when hard surfacing is also to grab the dirt and use it to aide in the wear process. Each bead will scoop up some dirt and that dirt drags through the rest making the dirt responsible for some of the wear protection..Sounds goofy but it's how and why they do it that way. Usually worn parts are worth building up and hard surfacing. You would have to do the math. time is also money.

Exactly, that's what I was taught too. I'm no expert by any stretch, I have only run about 30 lbs of the 60 G wire. I'm told it prefers to be run horizontal and if you want or need to run flat, the 60 O wire is supposed to be a better choice. The 60 G really is nice to run, the spatter isn't bad at all either.

Brian

 

[yomax4]

Yeah, typically, G means it needs 75/25 or Co2 O means no gas. It's a coin toss which is best. I guess it depends on how you like to weld.