Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #801  
JINMAN Love the Easter-Bunny Pic. lol...

I like the Velux Skylights, I have a plan for one as an emergency exit use in the barn closed up room in middle... HAVE to have some sort of fire exit just to be safe and it would be only way to do that center room.

Mark
 
Last edited:
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #802  
Are they using hardy plank expansion joints at the splices?
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #803  
pacerron said:
I don't think Woody recognizes that this is a rake end rather than a soffit end.
You can plainly see the courses of shingle and the poorly done cut off that will have to be trimmed again.
At the soffit end the starter strip creates a straight line for the first layer of shingles to be layed over. There is no cut off
of the 3D part of the first row that you see on a finished roof. With the 3D style shingle it is common to run a starter strip up the edge of the rake ends as well sticking out a little beyond a properly installed drip edge. Since 3D shingles are about 39" long and have no tab slots no cutting in place along the rake edge is required either, which results in a nice even edge, unlike what you get with one that is cut after installation.
If you look at the pic Pete took along the front edge of the garage rake you will see a bunch of shingles that have been sticking out beyond the edge a number of inches. They are probably bowed up some back on the roof as a result and when finally trimmed may take some real heat to seal down
Don't trust what you get as opinions from anybody on these forums, including me.
Look up the proper way to install a roof and what the various manufacturers suggest.
As you said the main purpose is to keep water from getting into places that will
create problems with mold, decay, and decomposition of the flakeboard sheathing,
as well as protect from wind damage as much as possible.

Pacerron,

Re read my post. I am the one that pointed out it is a gable end ( you refer to it as a rake ). A rake is a small protrusion from a wall used for aesthetic purposes. As you install the shingles in a pyramid pattern, 3D shingles get cut/trimmed on both sides of a gable roof edge ( the edge you start on and the one you end on). It can be done as you lay the shingles or can be done with a straight edge after installation. I prefer to lay starter strip along the entire exterior of the roof including fascia and gable ends. The OP can trust my comments. I do not post often but when I do, it is about things I do professionally. I have been in the residential construction business for 30 years and own a company. I believe the OP is getting a quality job from his contractor from what I have read and observed in the pics. My 2 cents :)
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #804  
Pacerron,

Re read my post. I am the one that pointed out it is a gable end ( you refer to it as a rake ). A rake is a small protrusion from a wall used for aesthetic purposes. As you install the shingles in a pyramid pattern, 3D shingles get cut/trimmed on both sides of a gable roof edge ( the edge you start on and the one you end on). It can be done as you lay the shingles or can be done with a straight edge after installation. I prefer to lay starter strip along the entire exterior of the roof including fascia and gable ends. The OP can trust my comments. I do not post often but when I do, it is about things I do professionally. I have been in the residential construction business for 30 years and own a company. I believe the OP is getting a quality job from his contractor from what I have read and observed in the pics. My 2 cents :)

Woody,
I would suggest we not have a war over words. The rake is the protrusion of the roof at the gable end where the facia and drip edge you pictured are installed. The gable end of the house is in fact where the rake is installed for aesthetic purposes and what you show in the picture.
I did not say that 3D shingles did not get trimmed on the gable ends at the end of the rake. I said they are normally cut before nailing to the roof with a tool that is similar to a heavy duty paper cutter so the edge is straight and even with the starter strip that is usually put along the rake edge in a good roofing job. You know that....
The old days of snapping a chalk line and cutting in place, as was often done on the old 3 tab shingle has been replaced by a much neater method. The double layer of material added to the 3D shingle makes it quite difficult to cut them in place compared to using a tool or even laying them on a board and using a straight edge and knife if you can't afford the tool.
If you did post often, you would realize that many times people are righting a reply to a question, as I was last night, and by the time I posted it, you had already posted your reply. These pages do not automatically update as replies are being typed. I apologize for thinking you didn't know one end of a roof from another from your original post.
I realize there are many ways to install roofing trim, some good, some not so good but necessary to make it work and look pretty in the end which is what most homeowners are interested in and have no concept of why something has more potential for a leak than another.,
I had decided not to post why I, in my 2 cents.. don't like what is being done here, and the reasons why, but you ruffled my feathers a bit, which is perfectly fine, so I will post my reasons for others who are getting ready to build so they can compare the arguments for your way versus mine.

A ( T ) top can be formed on a pan brake but the piece that is folded back 180 deg often cracks and comes off. A pan brake formed facia also does not have the stability ridges formed into it that factory made aluminum or vinyl facia have. It depends on the Z and being on a flat surface.
Way back when Eddie Walker asked, where's the drip edge or facia when the felt was first put on is when the work around initiated. When the first row of felt was replaced by the rubber mastic membrane, it still was not installed so the opportunity to nail it to the flake board under the membrane was lost. It still could be glued under the starter strip on top of the membrane after the facia was put on or before and the facia slipped in under it in front.
But, the Z method was chosen, based on some color problem. It still looks like white coil was used in the pictures on my monitor. The drip edge sold by Lowe's and others says the same number is used with white, tan, or cream trim. It's a light gray but light shadowing makes it look the same as the other colors.
The real problem with the end overhangs is that the sheathing was not cut off even with the framing that holds the facia. You can see by the picture used by Woody65 for his explanation that shims the thickness of the sheathing overhang must be being used every 3 feet or so to nail the facia in place while keeping it plumb. Around here that would harbor thousands of bees and Asian Lady Bugs, as well as whistle in the wind.
Pete's house probably has all the facia, soffit, siding, and decking done on it by today, so I am not critising what he got. A lot of you have said you are in the planning stages for a new home and are following this thread to learn the alternate ways things are done so you can choose what you think is best for your construction and area.
When you do get into construction, if you can't drop by the site a couple times a day to see what is going on, it's a good idea to look in the dumpster. You can often tell if things that are now covered up or hard to get to have been done by what you see in there.
A few pictures of the (T) versus Z method for comparison.
Ron
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #805  
It wasn't my intention to start a disagreement on drip edge techniques. :)

The trim coil "Z" is something I had never seen, I'm not a roofer.

I can see how it has aesthetic appeal, the exposed lip of a formed drip edge is not a beauty mark on a roof line. As a homeowner, where I had a shingle roof with formed drip edge, I decided to apply stain to it to match the fascia board rather than seeing it stand out as a thin strip of shiny metal. Not to mention it made the staining easier too. :laughing:

I am not sure if the aesthetics are so important to me that I would avoid using the formed drip edge. The trim coil comes across as a bit flimsy by comparison and more difficult to get a good seal. As a diy project, there really isn't a choice, as Woody mentioned, a brake is needed and it isn't likely that a diy'er would have one.

It is a learning experience if nothing else. And, at least one would know enough to ask about the drip edge style if it matters to them, as pacerron pointed out.

Thank you both for the explanations.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days
  • Thread Starter
#806  
Day 67

Got back last night and went took some pics this morning. Looks like they have been busy!

day67-1.jpg


day67-2.jpg


day67-3.jpg


day67-4.jpg


day67-5.jpg


day67-6.jpg


We decided to pour footers for the courtyard walls

day67-7.jpg


And we are doing the 4 foot extension on the right side of the garage door to balance the stonework.

day67-8.jpg


Garage floor is poured

day67-9.jpg


And the steps to the basement

day67-10.jpg


day67-11.jpg


Trek decking is done

day67-12.jpg


day67-13.jpg


day67-14.jpg


Shower and bath units have been installed and connected

day67-15.jpg


day67-16.jpg


day67-17.jpg


They are keeping the interior nice and uncluttered

day67-18.jpg


Conduit from the office to carry the ethernet cables is in

day67-19.jpg


Meter base to transfer switch wires connected

day67-20.jpg


And the cable between the transfer switch and subpanel is in, and one circuit is connected (to the fridge outlet). This is sufficient to finally get the electrical inspection done

day67-21.jpg


And the propane inlet has been grounded

day67-22.jpg
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #807  
no pics Pete.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #808  
Looks great. With 23 days left it is going to be close. The garage floor came out very nice and it's good to see they put a rough finish on the steps. I think the deck is my favorite part though, I would spend hours on it just looking out at the view.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #809  
Wow, they are really cranking -- great to see. I bet it was a busy scene there while all those different trades were at work. I stopped by our house during that same phase, and counted over 20 guys from 6 different trades, and it was a sight to see. Better than TV. I was also amazed at how many trucks there were, and how they managed to find parking spaces. It's cool to watch (my dad was a builder when I was growing up, so I am really at home on a job site).
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #810  
Ron,

Didn't mean to ruffle your feathers but when you have been doing roofing/siding/ trim for 30 years and someone posts that you don't know what part of the roof you are looking at my feathers get ruffled. Lol
Agree with most of your points, disagree with some. Enough said.
Didn't look close enough at pic of sheathing hanging over a bit. Needs to be flush with fascia board for z bend to properly be applied. Good catch.
Jim
Nice build and thread Pete, keep the pics coming.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

Headache Rack (A50860)
Headache Rack (A50860)
2016 CATERPILLAR TL642C TELESCOPIC FORKLIFT (A51242)
2016 CATERPILLAR...
2011 MAMMOTH UTILITY (A50854)
2011 MAMMOTH...
John Deere Planter (A50860)
John Deere Planter...
2000 PETERBILT 357 DAY CAB ROAD TRACTOR (A51406)
2000 PETERBILT 357...
(1) Push Blade and (1) Disk (A50860)
(1) Push Blade and...
 
Top