John Deere 1026r poor mowing results and poor loader dump control.

[just for fun]

Hi all,

I purchased a new 1026r a couple of weeks ago and so far I am disappointed in its performance. I have owned several john Deere tractors in the past and have been completely satisfied with them. I have been a die hard JD person for years. When it was time for a new tractor the only decision that I struggled with was whether to buy the 2720 or the 1026r. I chose the 1026r due to its tighter turning radius. I strayed from the Deere family in 1998 and bought a Simplicity Legacy, which I still own. Now to my frustration. The first thing that happened with the 1026r was the jam nut on the mm pto adapter fell off while I was mowing causing the adapter to angle down and damage the rod that locks the mower in place. No more auto connect until fixed. While trying to fix the auto - connect I noticed a Hydraulic leak in the loader hose connection block. I then called the dealer and they came out and told me that there was a sheered o-ring from the factory. They have ordered new parts for the tractor and they cobbled up the auto-connect but you still have to manually push the rod up after the tractor is in place or the mower will fall off the mounts when lifting.

I understand that these types of things can happen but it is not normal for John Deere. So now I can mow again but I am unhappy with the quality of the cut. My 15 year old Simplicity mows better and that shouldn't be. Both tractors have 60" decks. When I am mowing tight to a tree or around some landscaping the JD does not mow evenly leaving a ridge in the grass. It does mow flat when driving straight or large diameters. It also mows very poorly when changing elevations, ie mow ditches or transitioning up a hill. Any thoughts will be strongly considered and passed on to the dealer.

Now for the loader. First I am not use to a loader that does not allow you to rotate the bucket while raising or lowering the boom, something I will have to get use to. I was moving some rocks around the yard yesterday and noticed that after raising the boom in preparation of dumping the load the bucket rotated very slowly, stopped and then continued at normal rate or even a little faster. This is quite annoying and difficult to control. Just so you know this in not my first loader tractor but it is my first sub compact tractor. Again any experiences with this condition will help.

One more gripe. I purchased 5 suit case weights that I was told would mount right up to the tractor. I need the ballast weight when using the rototiller. I was going up a hill with the tiller on the back and the front tires came off the ground. I have to have the loader on when using the tiller, for safety, and I don't like it. Again the dealer let me down, either the weights are the wrong ones or the front bracket is not intended for weight use and another bracket is required.

I am not ready to go orange but I am almost ready to go 2720 even though it is too big for my 2.5 acres.

 

[bigtiller]

I'm going to skip to the end and let you talk with the dealer about the rest. I had a 2305 which is the old version of your 1026R. How big is your tiller? I had a 50 inch Land Pride on mine and didn't NEED any weights but if I really tried I could get the front wheels off the ground. I did use weights when I was working with it in town but that was just because they looked cool on the front after I painted the running deer and the boarder yellow.

 

[BigMike50]

the loaders controls are the same on 3x20 tractors as well. It is annoying that the hydraulics do not allow you to raise and dump the bucket or lower and curl at the same time. you have to stop one to do the other. Just something to have to get used to that's all. other than that

 

[aczlan]

On the scalping/uneven cut, are your scalp/gauge wheels set properly? When we first got our BX2660 the wheels were set too high (ie: they were set for cutting at 1" and we were cutting at 3") so it would scalp down to 1" in places.
I would check that first, then (with the mower stationary on a hard FLAT surface) measure the height to the blades on the front and back of each side. Generally the front should be a little bit (1/4"?) lower than the back and they should be the same height from side to side with the wheels straight and when they are cranked over to turn.


Aaron Z

 

[just for fun]

I'm going to skip to the end and let you talk with the dealer about the rest. I had a 2305 which is the old version of your 1026R. How big is your tiller? I had a 50 inch Land Pride on mine and didn't NEED any weights but if I really tried I could get the front wheels off the ground. I did use weights when I was working with it in town but that was just because they looked cool on the front after I painted the running deer and the boarder yellow.

I purchased a 48" king kutter. it is a bit heavy at 580lbs but well with in the tractors capacity. It really does a nice job.

 

[just for fun]

Yes they are set correctly. Dealer was out and verified it.

 

[just for fun]

the loaders controls are the same on 3x20 tractors as well. It is annoying that the hydraulics do not allow you to raise and dump the bucket or lower and curl at the same time. you have to stop one to do the other. Just something to have to get used to that's all. other than that

That stinks, I was thinking about trading up to the 2720. I have used other manufacturers loaders and never had this issue. John Deere needs to listen to this forum.

 

[lwalsh]

I had a Legacy. It has a continous roller across the entire length of the back of the deck that is designed to ride on the ground when mowing. Nothing I've had mowes as smooth as the Legacy did.

 

[jd670]

We added a 1023e to do lawn work and the cut is excellent. Its a mowing beast. Sorry to hear of your problems. Hopefully your dealer will get it straightened out. As for the curling while lifting on your loader, I have no problems with the 300cx on my 3320. I do it all the time. Have your dealer check that also.

 

[bigtiller]

I purchased a 48" king kutter. it is a bit heavy at 580lbs but well with in the tractors capacity. It really does a nice job.

I think we just solved that problem. :drink: You have a tractor size tiller on a lawnmower. I bet it does do a nice job with that much weight and 6 tines per flange. Does it push you forward much?

 

[BigMike50]

We . As for the curling while lifting on your loader, I have no problems with the 300cx on my 3320. I do it all the time. Have your dealer check that also.View attachment 319916

My machine is going in next week so ill check. but I have to tell you, I would love to see a video of your machine doing this if you have one because I have watched more than a dozen 300 and 200cx videos on youtube to verify this condition and every single last video exhibits the condition of only doing one operation at a time. not doing both. haven't seen a video yet of a machine raing while dumping.

 

[thatguy]

couple of my thoughts...

1) with a bigger deck you do get more of the scalping in ditches/banks/uneven ground.. My 2320 (one step up from you) has the 60" deck and will give uneven cuts on uneven ground.. I cut at about 4 to 4.5" - so the scalping isnt as bad as when you cut shorter..

2) These tractors have low flow hydraulic pumps (gal/min flow) - you have to run it close to the max RPM (for me that is 3,000 rpm's) to get the most out of the pump/FEL.. Larger tractors have much bigger pumps with more flow or dual pumps.. With my tractor you can do a curl/raise at the same time but its tricky to hit it just right in between the two positions.. Its really just easier to do one or the other..

3) When you are mowing around a tree where is the strip of grass being left? inner or outer width? if the JD is 'faster' than your old mower when you go around the trees the outer edge may be going too fast to give a good cut (i have the same issue around obstacles, but just learned to slow down).. Are you also running the engine at the recommended PTO speed when mowing?

4) I think that some of your problems will not improve by going up to a 2720.. That is a huge jump and you will get more pump flow but the cut may get worse..

5) I hated the cut the standard MMM blades gave.. I upgraded to Gator blades and the cut is much better and the clippings are tiny in comparison to the OEM blades

Brian

 

[BigMike50]

couple of my thoughts...

1) with a bigger deck you do get more of the scalping in ditches/banks/uneven ground.. My 2320 (one step up from you) has the 60" deck and will give uneven cuts on uneven ground.. I cut at about 4 to 4.5" - so the scalping isnt as bad as when you cut shorter..

2) These tractors have low flow hydraulic pumps (gal/min flow) - you have to run it close to the max RPM (for me that is 3,000 rpm's) to get the most out of the pump/FEL.. Larger tractors have much bigger pumps with more flow or dual pumps.. With my tractor you can do a curl/raise at the same time but its tricky to hit it just right in between the two positions.. Its really just easier to do one or the other..

3) When you are mowing around a tree where is the strip of grass being left? inner or outer width? if the JD is 'faster' than your old mower when you go around the trees the outer edge may be going too fast to give a good cut (i have the same issue around obstacles, but just learned to slow down).. Are you also running the engine at the recommended PTO speed when mowing?

4) I think that some of your problems will not improve by going up to a 2720.. That is a huge jump and you will get more pump flow but the cut may get worse..

5) I hated the cut the standard MMM blades gave.. I upgraded to Gator blades and the cut is much better and the clippings are tiny in comparison to the OEM blades

Brian

I noticed that, you have to go super slow with the stick right? if you go full bore with the raise and dump, it wont do both functions. makes sense. doesn't work well with high productivity like loading trucks. also the manual states the joystick only has 4 positions of operating ability and no in betweens like a cat backhoe or something of the likes. so I can see by feathering the joystick you can manipulate it.

 

[nikdfish]

I can verify that my 1025r FILB does the same thing with regards to H120 FEL joystick operations (I have not seen the dump interruption you mentioned, though.). One function at at time, lift/drop/curl/dump - no combos. The 305 loader on the 3038E is a different critter & combo functions are no problem.

Nick

 

[murphy1244]

I don't think you will get the same cut as your Simplicity, its in the Deck design.

 

[just for fun]

I think we just solved that problem. :drink: You have a tractor size tiller on a lawnmower. I bet it does do a nice job with that much weight and 6 tines per flange. Does it push you forward much?

I bought this tiller after reading of others with the same and similiar sized tractors having no issues. It does a great job on the dirt. I just need the front ballast weight to keep the tires on the groung when going up hills. I have several. I have not experienced the tiller pushing the tractor at all. Once the tiller is in the ground it is a great combination.

 

[just for fun]

I would like to thank everyone for their responses. It is good to have some great ideas. Most of the time all you get from the dealers and manufactures is " I have never seen or heard that before". The tractor is going back to the dealer tomorrow for some of these issues. I have to demonstrate my concerns to the person picking it up in the morning. I will try running the loader at full rpm and see if that makes a difference.

My uneven cut is on the outer side of the circle and the cut is lower. I am running the engine at the proper speed and mowing at a slower rate of speed than the legacy. I don't like the banging on my back from the seat bottoming out (sorry for brining up a new issue) so I mow slower.

If I go to the 2720 I will not get a mower, I will by a zero turn. I have heard about the gator blades, they were not available for the legacy. I will give them a try. Thanks Again

 

[jd670]

BigMike, i'll try to put together a video for you tomorrow.

 

[Nooodles]

That's awgata

 

[pinetree10]

Now for the loader. First I am not use to a loader that does not allow you to rotate the bucket while raising or lowering the boom, something I will have to get use to. I was moving some rocks around the yard yesterday and noticed that after raising the boom in preparation of dumping the load the bucket rotated very slowly, stopped and then continued at normal rate or even a little faster. This is quite annoying and difficult to control. Just so you know this in not my first loader tractor but it is my first sub compact tractor. Again any experiences with this condition will help.

I am not ready to go orange but I am almost ready to go 2720 even though it is too big for my 2.5 acres.

I also have 2.5 acres and own a 2012 2720. It has proven to be a good decision to own the larger framed tractor because I've moved a lot of dirt and done some excavating that probably would have taken a bit longer and been a lot harder on a smaller tractor. Most of the property is heavily wooded and the high clearance has also been a plus with clearing stumps and debris.

I have also noticed that the dumping action can be choppy depending on the position of the control lever. It seems like it has to be just in the right position to dump quickly or it moves very slowly. Maybe it's because the RPMs aren't high enough. I'll have to give that a try next time I use it. I agree that it would be nice to be able to perform two functions simultaneously rather than one at a time. Maybe it's just because it's a smaller piece of equipment with a smaller hydraulic pump?