422 wheel motor leaks

[MossRoad]

Good for you! Hope it is an easy fix.

 

[SwampmanLA]

I contacted Power Trac and a White dealer to discuss having a couple of my 422 motors resealed. Power Trac would not give me a real price but to put in a seal kit and nothing else sounded like $100.00 plus shipping. An inquiry about what a new motor cost yielded $400.00. I did not like these options. The White dealer told me these motors inexpensive and not worth repair unless you do it yourself. He said a seal kit would be $40.00 labor $100.00 and most likely I would need a new shaft and that would add $80.00. Seems the main cause of leaks is wear of the shaft around the seal. Repair would cost $200.00 a motor for them to do it. A new motor is $249.78. Decision made! BTW the motor number is f3013zaaaa.

 

[SwampmanLA]

Good news, sort of. My leaks are fixable with a seal kit. Terry says these motors are just about indestructible he really thought my power problems are elsewhere. So he suggested I get all four tires off the ground and then try to turn then one at a time. If the resistance is the same on all four motors then they are good. Well I did the test and found I had a sheared hub key on a rear motor. I plan on fixing that tomorrow.

This was a real pain because the 3/16" key would keep shearing. Finally decided the keys I had we're too soft (Harbor Freight stuff) and got some steel key material. Problem solved.

 

[MossRoad]

Glad you got that resolved.
:thumbsup:

 

[SwampmanLA]

It all started with the bolts that secure my rear wheel motors getting loose. After a few times of trying to tighten them with the wheel hubs in place, a tight fit. I decided to pull the hubs so I could really tighten down the wheel motor bolts securely. That is when I started a long chain of events that cost me two hubs and motors. Read and take heed.

The proper way to reinstall a wheel hub is to heat it, slide the hot hub over the cold shaft, and tap it home with a piece of pipe and hammer. Secure the 3/4" by 28 tpi nut on the shaft and snug it up. Let the hub cool and you well have a hub with a rock solid grip on the shaft.

What I was doing before was just torquing the wheel nut as much as I dare and that was not enough to hold the hubs in place. That 28 tpi nut just can't handle stress of holding those wheels on the shaft without the griping heating and cooling gives. They would become a bit loose,strip the nut, shear the key, and begin to eat away at the hubs and shaft.

 

[ponytug]

When you say "heat it", how hot do you mean?

Thanks for the pointers.

All the best,

Peter

 

[SwampmanLA]

I put it in the wife's oven till it was about 500 deg. It was 80+ deg ambient temperature where the 422 was and I wanted about 400 deg difference in temperature. That is why I picked 500 deg.

 

[KMA]

I put it in the wife's oven till it was about 500 deg. It was 80+ deg ambient temperature where the 422 was and I wanted about 400 deg difference in temperature. That is why I picked 500 deg.

Nice tip! Thanks!

 

[ponytug]

Wow! That's (alot!) hotter than I would have guessed. Thanks for the details. How long did it take to go between the oven and the motor spindle?

Is there a magic to a temperature difference of 400F?

Things that I had never thought about. Great tip!

All the best,

Peter

I put it in the wife's oven till it was about 500 deg. It was 80+ deg ambient temperature where the 422 was and I wanted about 400 deg difference in temperature. That is why I picked 500 deg.

 

[ponytug]

Wow! That's (alot!) hotter than I would have guessed. Thanks for the details. How long did it take to go between the oven and the motor spindle?

Is there a magic to a temperature difference of 400F?

Things that I had never thought about. Great tip!

All the best,

Peter

I put it in the wife's oven till it was about 500 deg. It was 80+ deg ambient temperature where the 422 was and I wanted about 400 deg difference in temperature. That is why I picked 500 deg.