Majik Paint from TSC

   / Majik Paint from TSC #1  

paulharvey

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2012
Messages
1,475
Location
Hawthorne, FL
Tractor
Kubota L285
I am considering using TSC Majic gloss black "truck, tractor and impliment" paint on a pick up. Yes, I know I'm cheaping out, yes I probably should drop $500 for a quality paint system, but I can't so I'm looking for some information on the paint I actually plan on using. I found the paint, $24.99/gallon, hardener ($15) and a Majic.reducer, but I'm wondering if.the reducer is simply pre measured mineral spirits? Is Majic reducer all you can use? I have a nearly full gallon of "Crown" mineral spirits that worked just fine with the gray Majic primer, and I would rather use that unless it will cause real problems.
I plan on doing 2 or 3 shots of color, but do I only use hardener for the final shot or each coat. How does this affect wet sanding? Majic doesn't really seem to say much on can or website. The hardener is high price for the amount, is there a cheaper catalyst that is compatable.

Edit. I downloaded the spec sheet, and it says "solvent=mineral spirits" but later says use only Majic reducer.
 
   / Majik Paint from TSC #2  
Why are you even concerned? Do you plan on suing them?
Do a sample and test it out.
Then let us know with pics please.

The worst is that you may have to redo it.
 
   / Majik Paint from TSC #3  
This doesn't seem to good.
 
   / Majik Paint from TSC
  • Thread Starter
#4  
newbury said:
Why are you even concerned? Do you plan on suing them?
Do a sample and test it out.
Then let us know with pics please.

The worst is that you may have to redo it.

Well, I'm cheap But I'm not trying to sue anyone. I just don't want to spend more the needed. You probably are right, I can use mineral spirits with one panel and see what happens, but I was looking for anyone with personal experience using these products. I assume they spec there brand to drum up additional sales, but there is always the off chance their reducer is special in some regards.
 
   / Majik Paint from TSC #5  
Well if you want cheap use spray paint
 
   / Majik Paint from TSC
  • Thread Starter
#6  
murphy1244 said:
Well if you want cheap use spray paint

By the time I buy half a dozen spray cans I would have as much money in it, with out the added bonus of being able to get a good multi layer build up. I did think about it. I shot all the primer with a $10 HF gun, and an ancient compressor (60 year old uncle in law got it used, and old when he was a teenager).

I sanded with 220 grit the off color doors, and bondo, before priming with two good coats. I lightly sanded the primer with 320. Should i sand/prime/sand the good panels as well, or just scuff and hit with two coats of color?

I haven't decided on clear coat. If I can get by without it, I will. I read that the catalyst increases gloss.
 
   / Majik Paint from TSC #7  
When I have sprayed enamel I mixed the catalyst in the whole batch. Note that you need to get the correct respirator filter for spraying paint with a catalyst. If it was me I would prime the whole project and spray the whole project with catalyzed paint. No clear coat.
 
   / Majik Paint from TSC #8  
PlatiDip it.

https://www.dipyourcar.com/

Painting a vehicle is a lot of work. Why cheap out on the paint. If you spend a extra hundred on two now it will be worth it. If you want to go cheap go with some Nason (Duponts cheap line) or Limco ( BASF's cheap line). You may be able to go to a paint shop and get some paint they mixed wrong at a reduced price.

Black shows all the imperfections.
 
   / Majik Paint from TSC #9  
I have used TSC Majic paints a few times and reduce with acetone then clean up with mineral spirits. Good results IMHO. I am not too keen on the hardner.
 
   / Majik Paint from TSC #10  
you get what you pay for, I wouldn't do it. If you want "cheap" but still ok, try Kirker. And use the hardener, wait till you have to reshoot a spot later without it, you'll be sorry.
 
   / Majik Paint from TSC #11  
I have used that paint with their reducer and hardener on three trailers. The hardener also adds a nice shine. Very pleased with the durability and finish. That said, I cannot comment on how it would look on larger panels. Very slick finish on the trailer frames though. I wouldn't use it on anything I expected to appreciate. Old farm truck yes.
 
   / Majik Paint from TSC
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Ok, still havent shoot color yet, lovebugs slowed my work for about a month, plus demoing garage at MIL's, ect. I ran out of the plain gray majic shop primer, and got a gallon of Majic Sandable truck, tractor, and implement primer. It was listed at $19.99 on shelf at TSC, but rang up as $49.99, they checked shelf and sold to me for $19. Got home, looked online, it is $49.99, so I was thinking this Must be good stuff.

Very unimpressed with it. Took about two hours to get it mixed up, took twice as long to dry, was shiny, hard to sand, got runs easily, and orange peeled like a son of a gun. On top of that, it wasn't particularly good at build up compared to the cheap can.
 
   / Majik Paint from TSC #13  
I've used the local Western wear/Tractor Parts store tractor/implement paint, hardener and reducer (not Majic Brand) with good results. I really like using Ospho on bare metal prep work. I think it makes the paint stick better. I'm in the cheap corner as well. You'll be fine. bjr
 
   / Majik Paint from TSC #14  
I just shot a flat black enamel from Tractor Supply on a trailer I am rebuilding...
It is the Majic brand...
I did not use the hardener...
So far so good...
The paint had to be really stirred well...
Lots of solids in that paint...
Covers well and a good price at $25/gallon...
With a $10 Harbor Freight Special HVLP sprayer I don't see how you can go wrong...
Mineral Spirits to clean up with and you are good to go...
 
   / Majik Paint from TSC #15  
Hmmm...gloss black shows all imperfections. And inexpensive paint and primer won't make it any better. But it all depends on how fussy you are when you are done. I had a Unimog once and wanted to paint it on the cheap, so we painted it with an army green flat paint. It actually looked really good, since there was no issue of trying to get it shiny. And the little imperfections just sort of went away. I've done nice base/clear jobs before, and it is a lot of work and seems with all of that effort it is a shame to then put mediocre paint on it.

We shot a metal sign with bright glossy red Majic and it looked pretty good, but was faded badly in a couple years. We then stripped it and did base/clear automotive grade paint and it looks glossy after 5 years, but cost tremendously more.
 
   / Majik Paint from TSC #16  
The guy up the road hqd his truck painted with some cheap paint. It looked good for the first 2 years but the 3rd year (this year) it is starting to fade. It is his old work truck so I know it had never been waxed. The truck is maroon. I think the red color family is the worst for fading.
 
   / Majik Paint from TSC
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Ok, minor update on the high build sandable primer. I recleaned gun, piece by piece, left soaking for 4 days, cleaned air line filter, made sure my primer was absolutely mixed. It laid down much much nicer this time. Funny how a clean gun and good air supply make such a difference.

Now... is it $49.99 good, well not to me... if I had to pay that I would have been fine with the cheap $19.99 gray shop primer.
 
   / Majik Paint from TSC #18  
I bought two quarts of Ford blue and two rattle cans of acrylic enamel from the dealer. I used some of the spray can paint this past weekend after overhauling the steering cylinders on the 3910. I was really impressed with this paint. It had good color holdout and dried fast. Can't wait to try the quarts. I have used the old Valspar paint from TSC before and I wouldn't use that stuff on garbage cans. The color (yellow) faded in less than six months to a chalky cream color . I'm a little gun shy on the Majic paints so be sure and keep us posted.
 
   / Majik Paint from TSC #19  
I have used the Majik paint for quite some time. I have used the Cub Cadet White for wheels with great results and the Matte Black on engines and frames. It doesn't work well on sheet metal though, because as everyone said it fades pretty fast. I use automotive paint on sheet metal but it's not cheap. I don't like any of Majik's primer though. I use Rustoleum's Rusty Metal Primer. It adheres good to places that are hard to sand (like cast iron) covers in one coat and flows out very smooth. It doesn't have to be sanded and can be coated with any enamel based paint including urethane.

Eugene
 
   / Majik Paint from TSC #20  
By the way, I second the use of the Harbor Freight paint gun. It's spray pattern is perfectly sized for painting something small like a tractor. When you get them on sale for $9.99, it's cheaper to use them once and throw them away. I keep 8 or 10 on hand all the time.

Eugene
 

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