Backhoe Removing/Installing BK2375 - narrow shed

[Fuggley]

Hi folks, I have a CK30 & loader with BK2375 backhoe and have never removed the backhoe. I am planning on following the many forum instructions/tips on how to do this but my tractor shed is only 10' wide by 24' long .... it has a nice level concrete floor.
Are there any concerns regarding the narrow width of the shed? Am I going to have difficulty or
are there safety concerns with doing the backhoe removal/install in a shed this narrow.
Any advice appreciated... Fug

 

[VictorW]

I have the same tlb set up. With the side stabs all the way out, horizontal, you'll clear your ten foot width. I do end up backing part of the tractor or my back blade, if attached, over the sub frame as it sits blocked up three inches off the floor. You may still have to with 24" long shed.

 

[Fuggley]

Ok, I'll give it a try.... 'uh... what can go wrong anyway?
It is a small shed but great storage for the tractor and some tools. I'm ok with having to park with some of the backhoe frame under the tractor.

 

[rimshot]

You also might want to chain the pads together if you want the profile of that stored backhoe to stop growing. If you have room to keep them down that is fine but if space across both outriggers is at a premium you won't want them to drop and settle on anything nearby.

rimshot

 

[Fuggley]

I'll see how much room I need once it's all on the floor and chaining the outriggers up some would give me more space. Thanks.

 

[rmorey]

Hey Fuggley, welcome to TBN!

Sounds like you havent had the hoe off and on very often. It really is no big deal, taking it off is simple. Just drop the stabilizers and the bucket to act like a tripod, undo the two pins and disconnect the hoses. Remember to shut down the tractor and cycle the a-b switch back and forth a few times to relieve the hydraulic pressure before you disconnect the hoses.

To reconnect, just back up over top the frame to get close enough to reconnect the hoses. Once reconnected, you can move each stabilizer and the bucket to "level" the frame to the tractor, backup to catch the frame and drop in the pins. Watch out for the tow bar pins. Bam done!

Maybe practice a few times in the yard before you get inside. Easy peasy! :thumbsup:

 

[Gil Case]

All is well and good if the bucket doesn't drift down over the winter and then the sub frame is up in the air two feet. Better to put the back hoe on its belly with out riggers up and chained as earlier suggestion, then put a 2*6 brace under the bucket arm.

This is not speculation, my bucket used to drift every winter, enough so that I could not drive over it in the spring.

 

[Gary Fowler]

All is well and good if the bucket doesn't drift down over the winter and then the sub frame is up in the air two feet. Better to put the back hoe on its belly with out riggers up and chained as earlier suggestion, then put a 2*6 brace under the bucket arm.

This is not speculation, my bucket used to drift every winter, enough so that I could not drive over it in the spring.

Why would you have to drive over the bucket to hook up a backhoe? That just doesn't seem right. If backed into the storage shed and unhooked, then just back up to it to reattach, hook up the hoses to level and adjust, then back up, shove home the pins and go. YOUR backhoe must unhook very differently from mine.

 

[bmurphy777]

Hey, I think I can add something useful here. :laughing: Don't park the backhoe any closer to the rear wall than you absolutely have to. When you try to catch the frame and drop in the pins if there is any mistake you will push it into the wall and cause damage. Don't ask me how I know this.

 

[Fuggley]

.... all good input! Recommendations based on your collective experiences could save me some problems, so all your feedback is very much appreciated. I will man up and attempt this feat of extreme tractorship mid week. ... and I'll be back to this post of I run into any trouble.
Thanks to y'all for your feedback!