3-Point Hitch Broke off a weld.. re-weld vs drill it out?

[BoonDoc]

I was enjoying my new box blade with my 2012 Boomer 30, ripping the crown off the trail into my camp when one of the tines hit a big rock. I noticed the tine was bent to the side like it was made of plastic. I also noted the box blade freely swinging left and right. Aside from tearing off the pin that sets the length of the left stabilizer arm, the right arm was hanging loose. Seems the mounting point sheared off. On closer inspection, I see that the mounting point is not a large bolt coming through the frame but a pin that's welded on. Getting her to a welder or the shop is a haul, so I was wondering if I could find a spot, maybe an inch forward, and drill a hole for a large steel bolt to come through. I assume the frame isn't hardened steel and could be drilled by hand? Anybody seen this happen and is there a good fix?

Doc

 

[Gary Fowler]

I would not back up and put in a pin as this is going to skew your implement (I am reading this as the pin that holds the 3 PH arm on under the axle). I have never seen one that was welded on. Most are on a bracket that is bolted on. If you broke the bracket and it was forged into the axle housing, then you have to repair it by welding otherwise one arm will be longer than the other. The cast steel axle housing is readily weldable with 7018 electrode and then it should be as good as new.
Photos of the break would be a + when providing opinions as to how to fix.

 

[BoonDoc]

I would not back up and put in a pin as this is going to skew your implement (I am reading this as the pin that holds the 3 PH arm on under the axle). I have never seen one that was welded on. Most are on a bracket that is bolted on. If you broke the bracket and it was forged into the axle housing, then you have to repair it by welding otherwise one arm will be longer than the other. The cast steel axle housing is readily weldable with 7018 electrode and then it should be as good as new.
Photos of the break would be a + when providing opinions as to how to fix.

Thanks for the reply Gary. I see your point. If I went in on one side, I'd really need to do the same on the other. Not a good idea I suppose. Anyway, as this is my first tractor, I hope I identified the arm properly. It's the only bar I can see that prevents side to side movement. On the New Holland, it's also the only bar not painted black. In fact, it's telescoping and made of what appears to be some sort of brass colored galvanized steel. It does mount to a point out to either side of the axle. I could be wrong about it being welded. It doesn't look like a bolt but since its covered in thick black paint, it's possible it's a plate and bolt that only looks welded. The Boomer's up at my camp. When I'm up next weekend, I'll take some photos of it. I'll also ask the locals if there's a welder around.

Cheers,
Glenn

 

[BoonDoc]

Found a photo online showing the bar that I'm talking about.

 

[Jkott]

You broke gold colored pin on the arm itself? That's a lot cheaper than breaking off the mounting point under the axle.

The easiest solution is to order a new stabilizer arm from messicks and take the old one in to a welder to keep as a spare.

 

[Jkott]

This piece?





Comes as an entire assembly. You can't order just the upper bar.

 

[Jkott]

You aren't talking about the mount under the axel are you? If you are, that plate with the pin the gold stabilize arm goes onto and it comes off with three easy bolts.

You probably don't want to move the pins on either or you will mess with the geometry of the three point hitch unless you do both sides, and then you have to check for correct movement.

 

[BoonDoc]

You aren't talking about the mount under the axel are you? If you are, that plate with the pin the gold stabilize arm goes onto and it comes off with three easy bolts.

You probably don't want to move the pins on either or you will mess with the geometry of the three point hitch unless you do both sides, and then you have to check for correct movement.

I've put a call in to my dealer about replacing the plate. It may be covered under warranty but they'll need to send the broken one in to see. Either way, it apparently runs around $120. Here's a photo of someone else's plate. Same as mine. I'm just relieved to know it's a plate and not a pin welded directly to the frame. The engineers must have anticipated some broken pins. That was good thinking on CNH's part.

G

 

[Gary Fowler]

OK, this is a lot clearer now. It looks like the mounting plate is bolted on to the axle so I would unbolt it from the tractor, grind off the weld on the pin on both sides and punch out the old pin. It should be a Cat 1 pin the same as you would have on your implement that is threaded and bolted on. Pick up one to match the size of the stabilizer arm, insert it in the hole and bolt it in place (or weld). If bolting, use a double nut to secure it so it doesn't back off. I could fix this in less than an hour including dismount and remount (paint might need touchup) If warranty covers it just get a new plate and see if the dealer will let you keep the old one to repair for a spare. I think maybe the welding caused some hardening of the pin which caused it to break or the weld could have undercut the pin caused a stress riser that made it break. Either way, a bolted on pin would be the easiest way to go and easily replaced if damaged.

PS: If you have a spare 3 PH pin of the correct size, this could be fixed in less time that it take to make a trip to the dealer for the new part. Those MIG welded fillet welds wont have a lot of penetration so grinding them flush should allow easy removal of the broken pin.

 

[Jkott]

Someone else's? You mean my pic

Read my entire thread. Check the lynch pin on the other side. See if you have the ones with the mushroom head instead of a flat side (I have a pic of the good and bad one in the thread.) if it is the mushroom head, they bind and the stabilizer becomes a wedge and blows apart the pin. You can also check for "marking" and gouges on the right side one to see if there is evidence of binding.

If you have the mushroom head, print my thread and take it to your dealer and demand they warranty it. It's a bad choice in pins and I made CNH well aware of the issue and solution last year.

Just a heads up that the first plate we ordered had the "correct" model number but was for the opposite side of the tractor. Hopefully they have corrected that issue on the parts.