CK25 Leaking Hydraulic Fluid?

[MTUser]

When I was clearing snow yesterday, I began to notice a kind of sweet smell, not like oil. I pulled the tractor over and looked under the hood to find everything covered in what looks like oil. My first thought was the oil filter I put on recently was not tight enough, but that wasn't it. I cleaned the engine with degreaser to so I could try to figure out the leak. Nothing seemed to be leaking when the tractor wasn't running. I started it up and tried looking around. Below is a picture of what I found:



The leak seemed to come from somewhere near the top below the brass covered bolt. I am new to owning a tractor. I am guessing that this is something to cool the hydraulic fluid? I'd appreciate advice on more troubleshooting I could do.

Also, I would appreciate advice on if I may have done something to cause this myself. It is cold here, some days around 0 degrees F. I've been letting the tractor warm up before I do anything. But the needle won't move off of C until you actually start driving around.

 

[murphy1244]

oil cooler shot. I have read about this on this blog. Try doing a search.

 

[MTUser]

Thanks for the help. I did the search and see that this is a common problem. I also see people talking about replacing the hard lines with rubber ones.

If I buy the parts from the dealer (the new oil cooler and the rubber hose conversion) is this a repair I could reasonably do myself, or do I need special tools?

oil cooler shot. I have read about this on this blog. Try doing a search.

 

[murphy1244]

Thanks for the help. I did the search and see that this is a common problem. I also see people talking about replacing the hard lines with rubber ones.

If I buy the parts from the dealer (the new oil cooler and the rubber hose conversion) is this a repair I could reasonably do myself, or do I need special tools?

I think you could do it easily.

 

[VictorW]

That's your hydraulic oil cooler. I have a CK30hst (2004 model year and now 600 hours) and had that happen twice. Originally, Kioti plumbed the coolers with solid steel lines. My cooler started to leak, at approx. 100 hours, and the Kioti fix was a new cooler and the rubber/steel combination lines like the ones in your picture and luckily under warranty. Well that lasted approx. 125 more hours and another leak occurred along with out of warranty now. I used the same lines and bought another cooler. It's been good now for almost 400 hours. From other guys posts, the trick was to rubber mount the cooler on those studs. I drilled out the cooler mounting holes to 1/2 inch and inserted two rubber gromments. I then cut two sections of 1/4 inch steel brakeline to make two 5/16 inch long collers. These went inside the rubber grommets and over the mounting studs. This allowed me to tighten the nuts against the steel collars and barely compress the rubber grommets. By doing this, it allows the cooler to move a little from vibration and not have the cooler shaken apart. I believe the current replacement cooler is of a different design and has actual heavier round tubes for fluid flow instead if those thinner flat tubes and can take the vibration better but I would still rubber mount it.

I'm sure you could do it. No special tools needed. The hose line bolts and mounting bolts are metric but I think you could get 6 point sae to work if you have no metric tools. It's been about five years since I did mine but I think I removed the battery and unbolted the airfilter housing just to make it easier but you should be able to work around them. Depending on how long it has been leaking, don't forget to check you hydraulic oil level.

 

[Highgear]

Same thing happened to our CK-30 HST. When I was plowing snow it was -14 below and a lot more than normal . Most of the time I can back blade it. This time I had to use the loader . At the time I was so cold I could only see that it was leaking at the cooler . Now the engine is covered in Hydrolic oil ! Michigan Iron is there a fix ?

 

[VictorW]

In prior posts, members have mentioned that running the tractor before the oil has warmed a little can break the thin walls of the coolers tubes. The hydraulic pump still makes pressure as normal but with the oil being cold and thick, it doesn't flow as well through the cooler and the pressure builds at or in the cooler and the tube walls crack. Mine is a 2004 model also with the cooler tubes looking like those in a tractor or vehicle radiator. Kioti has made several revisions to this cooler and I believe the latest one is a cooler that uses round heavier wall cooling tubes. This one is also better for the vibration generated leaks/cracks that members have experienced. Call Robert at MIE. He will have your answers and the newer parts.

 

[MTUser]

My parts arrived from Michigan Iron and I started the repair. I took the suggestion to remove the battery, and the air cleaner:



But when I got the new part out, it is wider than the old cooler. It looks like it is the correct part according Michigan Iron website: T2185-37021



Do I just loosen up the hoses, and adjust them so they fit? The mounting holes on the cooler seem to be in the same place.

The unit has silver foil over the holes for hydraulic lines. Do I just remove them? I wondered if they might be part of the sealing system.

 

[VictorW]

I'm pretty sure Robert at MIE sent you the right part. Your new cooler looks like what I've seen on newer tractors. The foil over the holes is just to keep contaminants out until installed. Remove them prior to conecting the hoses. The bolts holding the hoses on the cooler are called banjo bolts and fluid travels through them. There will be a rubber o-ring under the head of the bolt that seals on the top of the hose end and another rubber o-ring under the hose end that seals against the cooler. I still have the old style cooler with the same hoses as yours. If you can loosen and rotate the hoses so they can mount properly that would work but I think the hoses would now be bending or leaning forward and they're pretty stiff. Kioti may have also made revisions to the hoses for the new wider cooler and have shortened the horizontal metal section at the top of the hoses to keep the rubber part of the hoses perfectly verticle. I'd give Robert at MIE a call and ask if there was a change. If you find out please post the info. I may be in the same situation as you. I don't remember any member posting what they had to do when going to the new style cooler with the existing rubber hoses. I do remember a dealer mentioning that when you change to the new style cooler, you need two hoses but it wasn't explained if the new hoses were to replace the old style full metal lines or you would need them even if you already had the rubber hoses on the old style cooler.

 

[Highgear]

MTUser - Can you give us a heads up on the cost . Has anyone tried an automotive type cooler ?