V10, no power.

[QRTRHRS]

Got something strange going on with my 04' Ford box truck with the V10 engine. It starts okay and runs fine. It takes off just fine but then has no power.

I noticed awhile back when I went to pass someone that it seemed a bit "doggish" but I just shrugged it off. Then today I picked up a 2000lb pallet of horse bedding and it was running like it was not getting enough fuel.

Leaving the town where we where, it was barely making 30mph. My wife suggested that the fuel was low though I had 1/4 tank and that is usually sufficient. Not wanting to do 30 on a road signed for 55, I turned off on a side road. There is a gas station there so I figured what can it hurt so I stopped and put in thirty bucks worth or nine gallions.

The truck seemed to run better, reaching normal speeds but as soon as I hit some hills, no power. I did manage to make it home though where my efforts turned to the barn and cleaning and refreshing my horse stalls. When I finished up, it ended up that I was stuck in the mud in front of the barn. Being it was already eight o'clock, tomorrow is another day.

The truck has 180k plus on it but uses no oil, and runs quiet and smooth (usually). The only thing I notice is that when I start it, there is alot of "tinny" rattling, like the exhaust or heat shields are loose but I don't see anything wrong.

If the fuel pump was bad, I would expect it to work or not.

 

[wmonroe]

Does this truck have a in-tank fuel pump with an integrated filter? Sounds to me like your filter might be getting clogged.

 

[timswi]

I had an issue that was similar in a class C motorhome with a V10...It lacked power and was surging under load. Turned out to be a bad coil pack.

 

[SSdoxie]

Some vehicles with the pump//filter in the tank also have an inline filter tucked under the frame somewhere. Sounds like fuel starvation, look for an external filter first. If you do have to drop the fuel tank out, replace the pump while in there even if you could just a filter. Foe what little the pump cost compared labor of getting the tank out it isn't worth not changing it.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Some vehicles with the pump//filter in the tank also have an inline filter tucked under the frame somewhere. Sounds like fuel starvation, look for an external filter first. If you do have to drop the fuel tank out, replace the pump while in there even if you could just a filter. Foe what little the pump cost compared labor of getting the tank out it isn't worth not changing it.

Yeah, been there done that with an F150. This one being a box means I would have to drop the tank.

There is some kind of elaborate filter setup along the left side of the frame behind the cab. Been awhile since I was underneath doing any maintenance.

Like I said, I got it stuck in the mud right now. Come morning, I will get it unstuck, lol, then do a little checking around. If it was a coil pack, would it still run good while taking off? It seems fine until it starts to shift up and when it goes up against hill then it's dead.

 

[SSdoxie]

I think, am pretty sure, if it was electrical in the ignition system you would get an engine code warning.
I have had fuel pump show early sign of failure through low fuel pressure, low power just before complete failure. They don't run very long that way before they quit.

 

[timswi]

Yeah, been there done that with an F150. This one being a box means I would have to drop the tank.

There is some kind of elaborate filter setup along the left side of the frame behind the cab. Been awhile since I was underneath doing any maintenance.

Like I said, I got it stuck in the mud right now. Come morning, I will get it unstuck, lol, then do a little checking around. If it was a coil pack, would it still run good while taking off? It seems fine until it starts to shift up and when it goes up against hill then it's dead.

Mine ran ok on the level..Once I started up a hill it would start a light surging and run down on power. After a few hills, over 70 or so miles, the idiot light came on. Also had a MAF sensor cause some lean conditions too. Very common Ford issue so I'm told. They are generally cleanable if done carefully.

Could be a fuel filtering issue too...That's cheap if it has an external filter, around that vintage some manufacturers started going with the tank filter. Dunno on yours. Pretty sure my '04 GMC didn't have an external filter if memory serves.

 

[schmism]

id start with plugs and coil packs.

If you havnt spit any out yet, and you havnt changed any in 50K get ready for a job.

 

[super55]

Like others have said in a best case scenario it would be filters. Hopefully it thrown a check engine code and you can hook up an OBD II scanner to it and see what the computer is throwing out for a code. Trying to shoot from the hip on these can get pretty pricey in parts when just guessing what the culprit is.

I've mainly worked on GM vehicles so hopefully the Ford guys can share some info that is typically problematic with the Fords. On the GMs with low power I've had the issue caused by MAS, Trottle position sensor, crankcase and camshaft sensors (weren't electronically adjusting timing I'm assuming).

Once even had a GM that when key turned to the run position could hear the fuel pump run and would start up and idle fine and once trying to accelerate would just be incredibly doggy. It never threw a code so it really gave me troubles to find. Eventually I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and noticed that I was only putting out about 30 psi. Didn't think it was an issue until I researched and found my pump was weak by GM specs by about 15 psi.

My advice would be try the easy stuff first. Change the fuel filter and if that doesn't work take it to a shop and have them hook up an OBDII or more preferably have a complete diagnostic on the truck. They will be able to check timing advance, fuel pressures, MAS adjustments etc on their computer. If it is something as simple as plugs and wires it should show up on a scan. Every time I had a plug/coil pack issue with Dodge or GM it showed up immediately on the OBDII scanner with a particular cylinder having a misfire.

 

[VA MTN MAN]

I would check to see if the cataletic converter is stopped up or something in the exaust line.

 

[Diamondpilot]

We are all guessing here but I am thinking bad catalytic converter. My next guess is bad torque converter, but that's depending on what the tach shows.

Fuel pump is a possibility and can easily be verified with gauge but not likely in my book.

Check the air filter for a mouse nest, spark plugs, and other simple stuff.

Chris

 

[Stick895]

I'm showing my age here but I have had a Vovo that performed similar and it turned out to be a diaphram connected with the carburator. Or that was what I was told. Talking about 30 in a 55, this was in Germany and I had to go from Ramstein AB to Stuttgart. I did it but how I didn't get a ticket or run over I'll never know.

 

[Eyecatcher]

Sounds like catalytic converter, since you mentioned exhaust tinny rattle. If one collapses inside, engine will run fine until volume of exhaust increases as engine revs.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Sounds like catalytic converter, since you mentioned exhaust tinny rattle. If one collapses inside, engine will run fine until volume of exhaust increases as engine revs.

That could very well be it. The ground had frozen up overnight so I was able to get the truck away from my barn without to much trouble. I had it idleing in my driveway and crawed under poking around the exhaust. All the shields are good so I hit the catalytic converter with my hand and it does rattle from within. The exhaust appears to be all original so I should not be surprised with 182k miles.

I don't have a scanner so I will have to get it to my friend's garage. The light is not the best outside today and we have rain coming so I probably won't get much done. A quick look around the tank tells me that I may have just enough room to pull the pump without dropping the tank if need be. Won't be fun though.

I have been planning on going over the truck and putting in new plugs, wires, etc. Being my garage is weather dependent, lol, I just might write a check to get it done.

 

[CobyRupert]

I would check to see if the cataletic converter is stopped up or something in the exaust line.

Good advice, we often forget the "out" and only focus on the "in". It's not "breathing", which means either: 1) Not enough fuel going in. 2) Not enough air going in, or 3) Not enough exhaust getting out.
Of course, these 3 simple things can be caused by hundreds of other things, but knowing which of the 3 is where you must start.

 

[Loadstar]

Good test for a cat con. Is to run it for about 5 min and if it is about red hot compared to other parts of nearby exhaust probably choked up.

 

[super55]

Good advice on the cat converter especially if you just noticed the rattles recently. I totally missed the part about him mentioning about tiny rattles.

I don't know about with the new catalytic converters but with the old ones in the early 90's we would take a piece of rebar after they were clogged and pound out all the ceramic inside them and put it back on but than again my states DMV doesn't check emissions on vehicles either.

 

[dodge man]

I'd pull any codes first thing. Sometimes you can get codes but no check engine light.

 

[QRTRHRS]

The more suggestions I read here, the more I think that everyone suggesting the cat is correct. I forgot to mention that when I pulled over and put some gas in it yesterday, something did smell hot but I did not feel like crawling under the truck in the slop. I pulled the transmission dipstick and the oil was fine, clean and not hot or smelly. I was watching the rpm's, the coolant temp, etc. but all seemed in order.

I was briefly under it this evening looking around but it was raining so I did not linger. The fuel filter looked relatively clean but I need to look closer and will probably replace it anyway. The truck is titled an 04' but it has fuel return lines to the tank so per my Haynes manual that would be an 03' setup. Being a box truck, I have adequate space to pull the pump if need be. There is also a large device on the left side which I gather is an inertia switch to shut off the fuel in the event of a collision.

The cat looks involved to change out or bypass. The exhaust "T's" and tapers down in an oval shape going right into the cat. I can possible break the pipe loose where it goes into the muffler with my torch rather than cutting it in half and splicing it with a band clamp. That way I could get something into the cat to poke around and suck out the debris with my shop vac. Then if that cures it, I could replace it, heh heh.

I also need to ask around to see if someone I know has something to read the codes before I take it out on the road again. Or, maybe pick one up for myself. I never felt that I had enough use for one.

 

[Stimw]

After you count the spark plugs to see if they are all there!!!
You could start it up in the dark and look for wires jumping fire. I have seen engines put on a real light show.
It's possible that the muffler is partially stopped up. I have seen that on 1 ton Ford Parcel (Box) Vans.