Ford 4000 charging problems

[dolmenman]

Ok...New member here.. need help with a1972 Ford 4000 3 cyl diesel tractor so direct me if I'm in the wrong section...

The tractor is used as a scraper tractor and hasn't been charging for a few years...I replaced the key switch and then the dynamo/charger (New indian one)....it will charge with the contacts held closed inside the voltage regulator, but when the tractor is stopped and started the left contact has to be manually closed and the charge light goes out again and it seems to be charging...

Suspecting a dud regulator, I replaced it with a new one from ebay...but the charge warning light just stays on,,,I seen else where in this forum that it is necessary to polarise the dynamo and the regulator but don't know how too...

The field wire at the regulator is Brown-Green...the D (Arm?) is Brown-yellow...could someone tell me what procedure to wire this up as I am at my wits end and how to test it...thanks in advance....btw I'm in Ireland

Edit...I'm using a car battery to test this at the moment as I don't want to fork out over £100 for a new battery if it's not charging...would this lower ampage battery be causing the contacts not to close on the regulator?

 

[Soundguy]

if you can make the genny charge by full fielding it.

IE.. jumping arm to field... and or jumping hte cutout.. then the genny is fine.

it's the reg and or wireing.

if you think it is the wireing.

make a jumper for the field and arm connections that run up to the genny.

if you have made it charge.. the genny is polarized. reg does not get polarized.

 

[dolmenman]

Thanks for the reply...The Generator is brand new (indian) as is the regulator and key switch...I tried to polarise the gen by jumping a wire from the +ve Battery to the F on the gen (the smaller contact on the casing of the gen)

The charging light is still on as the reg remains open (I have the cover off it)...there are two Bat terminals on the reg...one F (brown-green)...WL and D (arm?) which are brown-yellow...the E is connected to the bulkhead...

It only charged when I manually closed the contact on the old regulator i.e the light went out....the terminals on the reg became quite hot??? to the touch...I don't want to mess about with the new reg in case I fry it

I have a volt meter...where should I test...I've read that it is necessary with a new reg and gen to touch the F and Bat terminals on the reg but I'm very confused...a detailed explanation would be greatly appreciated as I am in a dilemma...lol

 

[Soundguy]

keep doing that and you will keep burning up regs maybee.

the genny needs polarization.. not the rg.

many people polarize AT the reg for ease of getting to the terminals.. but keep in mind you don't want field terminals to have to conduct lotsa power.

just jump bat+ to field it will be polarized.

you doubt?

disconnect all wires from genny, leave it in bracket and grounded.. slip belt off.. run a wire from bat hot, and hook to gen arm and field.. it should spin ( motor ). if it does it should generate. you also just correctly polarized it too.

ps.. the old reg may have an open shunt coil and no cutout..

 

[dolmenman]

Thanks Soundguy...in my haste I've managed to catch my small finger in the blades on the gen...argh!!!...its dark here so will leave it to morning...am sure the gen is fine...will try running separate leads from the gen F to the reg F and the gen Arm to the reg D in case it is the wiring...will also connect the bat +ve to the gen arm and bat -ve to the F with belt off to polarise Gen...

The whole thing is a bit like arcane science and my lacerated finger is bleeding over the key board....tomorrow is a new day...will post back and let you know how I fared

 

[Soundguy]

the polerization technique you mentioned.. I would NOT do.

- to genny case.

+ to field and arm if you want to motor test her.. which I would. and hten.. have belt off.

do NOT hook + to arm and - to field.

if you don't understand that. don't do anything and take it to someone more familair with that lucas electrical system.

 

[dolmenman]

Ok...thanks very much for the help Soundguy...it seems to be working

First off I polarised the generator as you suggested...then I touched a jumper from field to Arm on Gen with tractor running and there was a spark...when I tested the D wire to the F wire at the reg it was dead (with tractor running)...I ran a parallel wire up from F on Gen to F on reg and taped it to the loom to avoid melting itself against the exhaust...now I've got a spark between the F and D at the Reg...

When I hooked everything up the charge light is on in the dash when I turn key to 1st position but goes out when tractor started....also I tested a voltmeter from ground on the battery to the +ve bat terminal when it is disconnected from the battery and get 12.50 volts...thanks again:cool2:

 

[Soundguy]

sounds like at least 1 bad wire in the wire harness.

 

[dolmenman]

After a couple of trouble free months, more problems...battery was a bit flat yesterday and the ignition light comes on when I give the engine full rev and the key is on...charged the battery with a charger

Volt meter when connected to +ve and -ve (+ve disconnected from Battery) only putting out 10.5 volts and at high rev fluctuates madly from 11v for 2 seconds, 1v for 1 second etc (no steady voltage)...spark coming from dynamo terminal when I disconnect it with engine running

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance

 

[Soundguy]

ANY IDEAS? quit pulling the armature wire off to test it. it is a meaningless test.

do a motor test ont he genny.

if it passes a motor test.

then do a full field test.

if no bat charge.

full field and jumper cutout.

post back