Halogen to LED conversion

redtailfarm · Apr 2, 2014

I want o convert working lights to LED but am not sure how to address wattage questions.

Is it a one to one conversion? - front working lights = 35watt x2 lights = 70 watts

So 1 light bar or 2 working lights cannot exceed 70 watts??

Also, when I picked up the tractor(used) from dealer, the turn signal lights were both broken. Would he replace them? Nope. After driving 350 miles I was surprised he would not help me out for the $20 it costs. Anyways, need to replace these as well.. again is it one to one?

I have zero experience with LEDS and all I can think of is that less resistance can = headaches. Not sure if relays have to be changed for blinking etc..

Anyone with some experience in this dept?

Would appreciate the help.. thanks

woodlandfarms · Apr 2, 2014

So lets back up a bit.

35 watts is 35 watts is 35 watts. If your stereo pulls 35 watts it is the same as a lightbulb that pulls 35 watts.

This all being said, I feel you can easily exceed 70 watts as (Assuming this is your L39) as it has a pretty beefy alternator. you may want to consider a relay system if you go over say 50 watts per connection but you have a lot of headroom to put on and add addtional lights.

Understand, though, that 50 watts of LED is not 50 Watts of Halogen in terms of light (called Lumens). 50 watts of LED produce 3400 lumen and 50 watts of Halogen produce 800 lumen (I think). So you put on a 100 watt light bar and WOW, you will be able to light up the dark side of the moon.

As for your flashers. It may or may not be an issue. Not sure how modern the wiring is on your machine. Worse case is you replace a relay, better case is you buy an LED bulb with a resistor in it or one you put in line, and best case is you plug an LED in and it has no effect.

Just FYI, LED flasher bulbs are a bit problematic in terms of brightness. Right now LED needs more real estate than a standard bulb to create the same lumens due to design ineficiency in both circuitry, heat reduction, and bulb design. So just buy good flasher bulbs.

super55 · Apr 2, 2014

Wattage is a direct correlation to amperage x voltage. Two 35 watt lights will produce 70 watts of electricity. With a 12 volt system it will put out just under 6 amps of draw.

Your current wiring should be fine to hold the amperage rating because typically halogens are energy thirsty and draw more amperage than LEDs.

As for your relays for your turn signals they should not have to be replaced unless they are faulty which I doubt.

Most LED replacement on 12v system is a simple switch out. Its when you put them in houses such as under cabinet lighting where you have to transform the voltage from 120 ac down to a low DC current.

I can't believe the dealer wouldn't replace the lights for you especially if it is a new off the lot model. With used models its always anybodys guess as to what the dealer will fix or not.

merlynr · Apr 2, 2014

My friend who uses led's in lighted signs brought over about 5 led's and a 12v drill battery as a test to see how it lite up under the kitchen cabinet and they were quite bright. I'm thinking they were 2.5 watts each. I'm getting ready to put some led can lights in the ceiling and was going to incrorporate under cabinet led's at the same time by wiring to the new led's output voltage and put a small switch on the string of led's under the counter for when they are not needed.

PILOON · Apr 2, 2014

For the same amount of light, LED's draw much less current (amperage) than regular filament bulbs and halogen draws more than regular incandescent (filament) so no worries using LEDs.
As to flashing LEDs you need to parallel a resistor with the bulb because a flasher works on heat causing the contact to make/break.
I think the resistor is in the 10 ohm 10 watt range.

One downside with using LED lighting is the lack of heat generated as you will notice snow and ice build up as there is no heat generated.

Code54 · Apr 2, 2014

May just be easier to add some additional LEDS than replacing the old lights with LEDS. If they are up on the ROPS you will find you have far better visibility as the loader does not get in the way.
The front headlights on most CUT's are wired to run higher draw lights than what the new LED's would be so switching them out and using the existing wiring should not be a problem at all.
Good luck

grsthegreat · Apr 2, 2014

the only real way to know for sure is to use a clip on amp tester (dc voltage model) and read the power being pulled from the alternator. Say you have a 50 amp alt, (i dont know what you actually have, youd have to check with dealer). You can find out what load you currently have while running tractor with everything turned on. if its a cab you have to run heater or a/c, all lights, radio,wipers,etc.

also, most halogen lights ive seen on tractors are 35 watt.

My Kioti has a 50 amp alternator. I have (4) 35 watt halogen lights (that i happen to like). If i were to ever change to LED id run an actual amperage load test to see what size LEDS i could run without damaging a VERY expensive alternator.

AND just for your info, I just recently found out that household dimmers that are rated for 600 watt incandescent loads can only handle 150 watt LED loads. Not sure exactly why, but ive been told its due to heat. (by manufacturers rep at show). Im not sure if this same 75% DE-rating will be used on all electrical switches or just dimmers. im still checking it out. This may also affect lighting relays

woodlandfarms · Apr 3, 2014

I would shy away from replacing a conventional bulb with an LED one in a headlight application. LED's are pretty specific in design and I have never seen one replace a conventional halogen in a halogen headlamp and work out very well. Flashers are a different matter.

redtailfarm · Apr 3, 2014

As always, some great points… I think I'll keep it simple and just ADD a LED light bar.. will have the best of both worlds and not give up performance. thanks to all

Fallon · Apr 4, 2014

LEDs do actually put out decent heat, just look at the back of any decent sized LED bulb or fixture. There is a large finned aluminum heatsink there for a reason. Nowhere near what a halogen puts off, but still a bit. Snow & ice buildup on LEDs isn't actually as much of a problem as they are rumored to be.

I put my LEDs up on the ROPS bar, 2 forward & 2 back. much better coverage instead of the headlights bouncing off the back of the bucket blinding me & not lighting up where I'm going.