Stihl MS 261 C-M 18" vs 20" Bar

[Johnkn]

Greetings, getting ready to get a MS261 C-M, really torn between the 18" and 20" bar. My current (early 1970's) saw has a 21" bar and cuts like a beast but is heavy as **** on this old body. I was really thinking about the 20" bar on the new saw, not really for any potential cutting advantage, but so I don't have to bend over quite so far when limbing fallen trees. Not sure what the weight difference is between the 2 saws, an extra 2" of bar and 4" of chain can't be more than a few ozs. I'm sure either length would be fine. Suggestions? thanks

 

[s219]

I would recommend against the 20" bar -- it makes the saw too nose heavy, and unbalanced (it won't even sit flat on a table with a 20" bar). The saw can pull a 20" bar in softwood, but not in hardwood, so it's of limited use anyhow. It'd stick with 16" or 18" bar. I have all three sizes for my 261, and 18" is the most versatile.

If you really need a 20" bar, I'd step up to a 60cc saw. In that size range, the Husky 562XP is the best option right now.

 

[motownbrowne]

Tough choice. My personal preference might be for a 16" and a 20". The weight of the longer bar isn't much, but it's all the way out at the end of the lever. The shorter bar will feel quite a bit lighter. I also don't think two extra inches will make much of a difference as far as bending over is concerned. Of course, it also depends on the size of wood you're working with "right there". If I had to choose one, I'd buy the 18". I have a Shindaiwa 488, which is the same size saw. It came with a 20" bar. I'm looking for a shorter one to swap it with.

 

[Parkanzky]

I recently purchased an MS 261 C-M and went back and forth between 16" and 18" for the bar. I ended up going with 16" and I'm really glad that I did. My logic at the time was that I'd get the 16" saw, which will cut nearly everything I have to deal with at my place, and then get a 20" bar for the times when I need a bit more capacity. I still haven't needed the longer bar (the couple times I've cut something bigger, I've had a buddy there helping and he had a bigger saw with him), but I won't mind buying it when I do.

I love the way my saw cuts with a 16" bar. Since it's perfect for 99% of my cutting, I'm glad that I didn't compromise.

A shorter bar will really increase your satisfaction with a chainsaw. My father-in-law uses a 16" bar on his MS 440!

 

[Will_C]

I run a 16" bar on my 260, and could not imagine running a longer bar-of course I cut hardwoods.

Will

Sent from my iPhone using TractorByNet

 

[Parkanzky]

I run a 16" bar on my 260, and could not imagine running a longer bar-of course I cut hardwoods.

Will

Sent from my iPhone using TractorByNet

I don't know how much of a difference it is in the field, but the MS 260 is 3.5 HP and the MS 261 has 3.9 HP. I've been running mine with a 16" bar and it's been in the single digits here, but my saw is ripping through the frozen solid walnut I've been cutting lately. It will make a pile of chips fast when I bury the bar in a big section of the trunk. I wouldn't hesitate to run it with an 18" bar if I had a lot of logs that big around, and I'm sure it will run a 20" bar with no problem if I need one for occasional use. However, if I found that I needed a 20" bar all the time, I'd be looking at a bigger saw to go with it.

 

[dragoneggs]

Don't know your real requirements but I am with those that opt for a shorter bar. I am getting older and like the shorter bar because it seems much easier to swing it around. I got rid of my old saw with a 20in bar because I really didn't need the length ever.

 

[Johnkn]

Thank you everyone, appreciate your comments. I was debating on either a 18" or 20" bar with the thought that the 20" bar would be easier on my (old) back when limbing down trees, but I think good sense will prevail and I'll go with the 18" on this one. I only use the saw a handful of times a year, I'm sure it will be fine. I'll post here when I get it. take care

 

[dragoneggs]

Thank you everyone, appreciate your comments. I was debating on either a 18" or 20" bar with the thought that the 20" bar would be easier on my (old) back when limbing down trees, but I think good sense will prevail and I'll go with the 18" on this one. I only use the saw a handful of times a year, I'm sure it will be fine. I'll post here when I get it. take care

I think that's a good call. Especially if most of your work is small stuff, limbing, etc. At least that is what I found. I hear you on the leaning over and back thing but I don't think the longer bar will really do that much for you and you will have less control. I use my little guy for limbs even though it isn't as nice a saw just because of the weight and control.

 

[motownbrowne]

Thank you everyone, appreciate your comments. I was debating on either a 18" or 20" bar with the thought that the 20" bar would be easier on my (old) back when limbing down trees, but I think good sense will prevail and I'll go with the 18" on this one. I only use the saw a handful of times a year, I'm sure it will be fine. I'll post here when I get it. take care

Don't let me nay-say buying a pro saw. I almost always recommend that people step up to the pro level of saws even for homeowner use. That said, though, if you will really only use it a few times a year, a ms251, or whatever they call it now might work for you. Just something to think about. If you've got the cash, and want to have a really fun saw, then forget I said anything.

 

[xring100]

Tough choice. My personal preference might be for a 16" and a 20". The weight of the longer bar isn't much, but it's all the way out at the end of the lever. The shorter bar will feel quite a bit lighter. I also don't think two extra inches will make much of a difference as far as bending over is concerned. Of course, it also depends on the size of wood you're working with "right there". If I had to choose one, I'd buy the 18". I have a Shindaiwa 488, which is the same size saw. It came with a 20" bar. I'm looking for a shorter one to swap it with.

Agreed i have a ms361 @ 4.4 hp it has a 20" bar and it is adequate and ballanced but i honestly rarely cut much over 12-14" with it as my ms660 is so much more fun/faster to use on the bigger stuff. If you do go for the 20" bar I'd definitely be running full skip chains more power per cutter less bogging as you will easily stall the clutch on standard chain. In general my experience says stihl sizes their saws to function with the largest bar they advertise but they would generally be happier one size down meaning yes they will cut it but. As someone else mentioned both a 16" and 20" might be nice. Might be able to negotiate for a discount or have at least a spare bar thrown in.

My dads 026 is pretty taxed with 16" burried in a tree.

 

[Johnkn]

Don't let me nay-say buying a pro saw. I almost always recommend that people step up to the pro level of saws even for homeowner use. That said, though, if you will really only use it a few times a year, a ms251, or whatever they call it now might work for you. Just something to think about. If you've got the cash, and want to have a really fun saw, then forget I said anything.

Thanks, I'll stick with the MS 261. I've never once in my life been sorry for buying the best, but there have been a bunch of times I tried to save a few dollars and ended up either remorseful or going back and re-buying which always costs more in the long run.

 

[xring100]

Thanks, I'll stick with the MS 261. I've never once in my life been sorry for buying the best, but there have been a bunch of times I tried to save a few dollars and ended up either remorseful or going back and re-buying which always costs more in the long run.

Yep agreed i bought a cub cadet RZT zero turn. when i bought the house as i didn't have the money for a good one. A decision ive regretted ever since, I'm getting ready to buy a good one after 10 years of mowing and agonizing over crappy cut quality and in general a crappy mower..


I was at the hardware store today and checked out the new pro saw MS241 and MS 261. THE 241 is nice and light. But a 3.9 hp the 261 is pretty light. My 361 never tires me out hauling it around i think you'll like the 261.

 

[dragoneggs]

Thanks, I'll stick with the MS 261. I've never once in my life been sorry for buying the best, but there have been a bunch of times I tried to save a few dollars and ended up either remorseful or going back and re-buying which always costs more in the long run.

Agree with you 100%

 

[s219]

Thanks, I'll stick with the MS 261. I've never once in my life been sorry for buying the best, but there have been a bunch of times I tried to save a few dollars and ended up either remorseful or going back and re-buying which always costs more in the long run.

That's a good plan. While a 251 or similar homeowner saw would satisfy your low hour requirements just fine, the pro saws are so much nicer built and nicer to handle. Just the metal parts alone make them nicer.

As far as having more reach with a 20" bar, that is technically true, but I think you'd get annoyed by the poor balance. The 261 just does not balance well with the 20" bar, and that makes it awkward to carry and handle all the time. It may limb easier because it always wants to point nose down, but it will be that much harder to handle and move around, erasing any benefit. You'd be working more to pick up the bar nose every time. I'd go as far to say the 20" bar becomes annoying. Used mine one time and never again.

Now, if you could locate a proper lightweight 20" bar for the 261, that would be an option to consider, as it would give you both reach and balance. I have the Stihl 28" ES light bar for my MS-461, and it balances just the same as the stock 20" bar on that saw, which is wonderful. It cost $$$, but is well worth it in cases where I need a very long bar, as there is no penalty on weight or balance. If I ever bend it though, I will probably have a heart attack due to the cost.

 

[kco]

Thanks, I'll stick with the MS 261. I've never once in my life been sorry for buying the best, but there have been a bunch of times I tried to save a few dollars and ended up either remorseful or going back and re-buying which always costs more in the long run.

I think that's a good decision. The professional saws are lighter and tougher and will last longer. That is the advice I received when I replaced my worn-out McCullough 24 years ago with a Stihl 028. I had wanted to repair the old McCullough but the saw shop owner said, although he could repair it, he advised buying the 028. I was 48 at the time and he said, "this saw will last you the rest of your life". We had a professional log builder staying with us at the time. When I got home and showed it to him he said, "this saw will last you the rest of your life".

I couldn't keep it running this summer and thought it might be worn out. I asked the local dealer to look at it and call me if it needed major work. I also got a quote on an MS261. He pulled the 028's starter cord a couple of times and said it had lots of compression so it should be OK. All he had to do was change the fuel filter. I could have done that but had messed with the carburetor adjustments so much I knew I'd never get it right. I am always impressed how people who really know saws can tune them so well. I take mine in every year or two just to have them check it.

I personally prefer a shorter bar. I have a 16" which is perfect for my cutting mainly tall skinny birch, pine, spruce and fir averaging about 10" and the largest ever likely 30". I sometimes cut with a neighbour who has a couple of more powerful saws with larger bars. I much prefer my lighter, shorter saw, and that preference increases with (my) age.

I often find I can cut faster with my saw than the neighbour's more powerful saws, I think because I keep mine sharper. I normally touch it up after every 2nd or 3rd tank of gas, and more often if cutting trees with dirt in the bark or after hitting the dirt while limbing.

Instead of the saw, I use my Fiskars loppers:

PowerGear

for most of my limbing (except for very large trees where limbs are greater than 2").

Although slower, it's quieter, safer and more relaxing. Being retired, I'm in no hurry.

Anyhow, I think you can't go wrong with the MS261. That's what I'd buy if I outlive the 028.

 

[Johnkn]

Done, LOL, purchased a new MS 261C-M with 18" bar, hard case, 9 ply chaps, cut resistant gloves, helmet system, bar oil, pre-mix fuel, files, etc. etc.. Thanks everyone for your help. Long, long overdue (especially on the safety items) , guess I'm getting a bit wiser in my old age.

 

[dragoneggs]

Done, LOL purchased a new MS 261C-M with 18" bar, hard case, 9 ply chaps, cut resistant gloves, helmet system, bar oil, pre-mix fuel, files, etc. etc.. Thanks everyone for your help. Long, long overdue (especially on the safety items) , guess I'm getting a bit wiser in my old age.

Congratulations... now I am jealous.

 

[kco]

Yes, congratulations. That saw will give you years of good service.

 

[kco]

Done, LOL purchased a new MS 261C-M with 18" bar, hard case, 9 ply chaps, cut resistant gloves, helmet system, bar oil, pre-mix fuel, files, etc. etc.. Thanks everyone for your help. Long, long overdue (especially on the safety items) , guess I'm getting a bit wiser in my old age.

I just reread your post. Good call on the files. Buy lots of them and don't try to get too much mileage out of them. It is noticeable how much better the saw cuts if you keep it sharp and how much easier it is to sharpen if you sharpen it often. And it's no effort if you use a good file. I buy them from my dealer in little case lots of 12 or 18(can't remember). They are cheaper that way and it's easier to discard the old one when you have lots of spares.