Where to buy bulk lawn care product

[cp1969]

I buy fertilizer from the local grain elevator. You can get it in bulk or by the bag; generally cheaper in bulk.

The formulation of fertilizer, as has already been mentioned, is composed of three values: Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potash. Without a soil test, you have no idea of what values you should be applying for the last two. The good news is, soil tests are often free.

To make the numbers come out, sometimes you have to blend two or three different numbers to get the right mix to correct a Phosphorous or Potash problem. It is not hard to do--for instance, you can mix a bag of 46-0-0 with a bag of 8-32-16 to get 100 lbs of 27-16-8.

I guess you can go as far into this as your interest dictates but the general rule of thumb for cool season grass is that you put down approximately 1 lb of Nitrogen per 1000 sq ft at a time and how often per year depends on how well you like to water, mow and pay fertilizer bills. If you're going to fertilize once per year, September is the time to do it. If you're going to fertilize twice, add a treatment in November. Three times--do the third in late May using slow release Nitrogen.

At least, that is what Kansas State University has to say about it.
Horticulture Library

 

[Steven Anderson]

I also Live in Southeast N.H. and am looking for a better source for my Fertilizer. I currently maintain 8 Acres of Lawn but it costs me a fortune. Any Ideas

 

[Western]

Several feed stores around me sell bulk fertilizer, You can fill a 55 gal barrel or use one of their fertilizer spreaders ( a spreader you haul with your truck). I would start calling local feed stores and ask where the nearest bulk fertilizer store is. As mentioned most Co-ops have access to bulk fert.

 

[Steven Anderson]

Thanks you very much. You both have given me a great starting point for the Spring, I will let you how I make out. SWA

 

[thatguy]

WOW - Steve_Anderson - I hated when I needed to buy seed/fertilizer/lime for my ~2 acres of lawn.. I cant image what you have (or are) paying..

You may want to consider liquid fertilzers.. My neighbor hays part of our land (and the empty lots near us) and he sprayed 18-18-18 on quite a few acres last year and IIRC it cost him less than $400.. Just another idea..

brian

 

[Steven Anderson]

As you all know when you take a wooded lot, clear it , dry it and put in the proper drainage, it is alot of work. that part of it was all completetd in 2008. Now putting in a lawn of this size is much more of a task than I had ever expected. I am just trying to attack this, a little more like a professional.

 

[Western]

As you all know when you take a wooded lot, clear it , dry it and put in the proper drainage, it is alot of work. that part of it was all completetd in 2008. Now putting in a lawn of this size is much more of a task than I had ever expected. I am just trying to attack this, a little more like a professional.

You got that right, but it is a heck of allot more fun than getting a report, or something else done for work:laughing:

 

[dscheurs]

I am in Michigan where can I find a place like that. Pinconning, Michigan is where I am close to but will travel --I have 2.5 acers want to treat for all the bugs lolololo spiders, grubs, earwiggs, ants, millipedes, flea, ticks, mosquitoes and so on...I also would like nice healthy thick green grass (seed)

 

[fishheadbob]

For 10 or 20 bucks you can have a soil test run by your local cooperative extension; when it comes back in a week or 2 you get a non biased report telling exactly how much of which nutrients you need to establish a lawn. You can often get a similar soil test run free by your local fertilizer plant or supplier, but there is no free lunch. The free tests frequently state that you need much more fertilizer as the free test is actually paid for by the outfit selling the fertilizer. In New York the soil tests are sent to Cornell where they don't sell anything and the analytical lab is first class.
When you get your results back take them to your nearby fertilizer sales place, show them your results, and they should be able to tighten you up with what you need.
If you don't want to do the soil test route look at a bag of Scotts or whatever and copy the ingredients list. You really want the N-P-K numbers; Nitrogen, Potassium, and Phosphorous because that's what constitutes fertilizer . The name brand may contain trace elements of minor minerals like magnesium, boron, and so on which you probably don't need anyway. Problem here is that the big name brands are a one size fits all formula while a soil test is custom designed to your specific soil.

Rent a spreader and have at it.

When my father owned the golf course he would say that fertilizer is cheap, mowing grass isn't. The more you fertilize, the more you mow. Americans are brainwashed into thinking that we must have lawns looking like Augusta National, and we pay accordingly. I fertilize my crops not my lawn.

 

[RalphVa]

My best grass is down the hill behind the house. It gets no fertilizer at all.

If you mulch cut the grass, you're not taking away nutrients.

Soil tests won't show how much NPK you need because they're not tested: too mobile in the soil to test for.

Ralph