Traction Using a Tractor on Mountain Property

GirlWhoWantsTractor · Apr 25, 2015

Hi Folks, and thanks for the great forum.

Have 16 acres of mountain land, mostly wooded, with grades ranging from around 10% around the house all the way up to steep ravines where no machine will go, and everything in between. Have beat my Husqvarna lawn tractor (and myself) about to death trying to do various projects and figured I need a tractor. I mean, if the Huskvee can get around pretty well except for getting stuck about every 15 minutes, then a real tractor should do it better, right? Got it pretty much picked out and everything.

Here's the problem: All the tractor videos I've seen show flat or gently rolling land, and when I search "steep" "hilly" "ditch" "ravine" on TBN, all I get is roll-over stories! Sat on a few SCUTs, and yep, yer pretty high up compared with a lawn tractor....

So....do any of you actually work steep, rough terrain with your tractors? Are some tractors better than others for this specific need? Which ones have the lowest center of gravity? Does ballasting the tires help? Any other tips? Or is a tractor just the wrong machine for the job?

TYVM

jix · Apr 25, 2015

I would bet on a crawler type tractor, depending on what you want to do with the land.

vtsnowedin · Apr 25, 2015

There are of course limits to everything. But with a well set up 4WD tractor and ballast in the tires you can access a lot of hilly ground and at least get within a cables reach of a lot more of it. I have mine set to the widest rear tire position plus have 4.1 inch spacers and "Rimguard" tm in the rears. I still keep the ROPS up with canopy on for small falling limb protection and try to think before I go. I'll post a picture or two showing the set up when I get back to my home computer.

GirlWhoWantsTractor · Apr 25, 2015

jix said:
I would bet on a crawler type tractor, depending on what you want to do with the land.

No tracks please. Have had guys out 4 or 5 times to do some really big jobs (new ponds, new road, new driveway and parking area) and spent weeks fixing the ruts and gouges left behind by those tracks, plus replanting grass. We had a small skidsteer out here recently and it couldn't negotiate any of the tighter areas. Plus more big gouges in the lawn. Arghhh!

GirlWhoWantsTractor · Apr 25, 2015

vtsnowedin said:
There are of course limits to everything. But with a well set up 4WD tractor and ballast in the tires you can access a lot of hilly ground and at least get within a cables reach of a lot more of it. I have mine set to the widest rear tire position plus have 4.1 inch spacers and "Rimguard" tm in the rears. I still keep the ROPS up with canopy on for small falling limb protection and try to think before I go. I'll post a picture or two showing the set up when I get back to my home computer.

Thank you. I look forward to the pictures.

I guess my real question is: Is a "well set up" SCUT more of a rollover risk than a lawn tractor?

If so, maybe I'd be better off with a larger, more powerful 4WD lawn tractor since I know the lawn tractor can at least negotiate the terrain w/o flipping over. The problems are getting stuck on hills (2WD and small tires), getting stuck due to jamming the mower deck on something, and just plain getting stuck in the mud. Plus the lack of real ground engaging attachments, inability to move dirt, dig, drag trees, pull carts full of rocks, or do any serious grading.....

Sysop · Apr 25, 2015

My opinion, the more weight you have under you the better. 200# man setting atop a 2000# machine is at more risk of rollover than a 200# machine setting atop a 6000# machine. You want width for stability, weight for traction, and a low center of gravity.

I also recommend HST for extreme hills too. They're generally a good bit heavier than their gear counterparts and that weight is built low in the machine so helps the center of gravity. HSTs also allow for slower/smoother movements and don't jerk around or freewheel when power is suddenly cut from the drivetrain. Most people's nerves prevent them from operating a clutch as smoothly when they're on three wheels teetering at the top of a long steep grade, and even the best of tractor brakes leave something to be desired on extreme hills...

When filling the tires, don't go over 60-65% full, it keeps the weight in the bottom part of the tire, keeping the center of gravity lower. Filling above the axle line doesn't lower the center of gravity nearly as much, it only adds weight. Filling above the top of the rim will lower the center of gravity.

Lots of folk will try to sell you on a loader, which is a nice tool to have, but they suck on extreme hills. Get a set of front suitcase weights so you can remove the loader, they keep all the weight at the centerline of the tractor which increases sideways stability. You have to keep a loader bucket low to the ground or it affects stability on mostly flat ground. On a hill this is amplified. The large upright masts the loaders mount to are holding the weight of the loader above the front wheels and it doesn't have to be up very far before it acts as a lever trying to pry the tractor over onto it's side... Keeping it low on extreme terrain is a constant exercise. It must be raised to start up a grade so it doesn't dig in, it must be lowered as you climb and crest a grade to keep the front tires well planted. On uneven side slopes it's not so bad, but on my land as the slopes change direction the corners of the bucket can drag if keeping it too low. Suitcase weights eliminate all of that...

Right now my dog can't make it up our hill due to the mud or I'd take some pics for ya... All I can tell ya for now is we have hills and we use tractors!

For the most extreme of hills I'd advise constructing a roll cage for the tractor. It is quite common here to see the entire tractor caged.

/pine · Apr 25, 2015

You might consider renting a tractor that is similar to what you are thinking about to get a feel for the comfort level...You will not want to be operating a machine that is constantly inducing the (excuse the term) "pucker factor"...!

I don't think you mentioned a front end loader...this adds a whole other factor when it comes to center of gravity and for the most part contributes to a lot of rollovers...

I operate a 4wd b-series (FEL, loaded rears) in mountainous terrain... you have to always address steep grades vertically...always remain in 4wd when ascending/descending...most importantly you have to go slow and stay focused...

Good luck...

smstonypoint · Apr 25, 2015

I don't own one, but I have seen Ventracs operating on slopes that would scare the "you know what" out of me if I was using a regular tractor.

Ventrac Compact Tractors & Attachments

Steve

GirlWhoWantsTractor · Apr 25, 2015

smstonypoint said:
I don't own one, but I have seen Ventracs operating on slopes that would scare the "you know what" out of me if I was using a regular tractor.

Ventrac Compact Tractors & Attachments

Steve

Wow. That's exactly what I was picturing in my mind if I could design a better machine for this terrain. Will be checking this out carefully. Thank you.

GirlWhoWantsTractor · Apr 25, 2015

/pine said:
You might consider renting a tractor that is similar to what you are thinking about to get a feel for the comfort level...You will not want to be operating a machine that is constantly inducing the (excuse the term) "pucker factor"...!

I don't think you mentioned a front end loader...this adds a whole other factor when it comes to center of gravity and for the most part contributes to a lot of rollovers...

I operate a 4wd b-series (FEL, loaded rears) in mountainous terrain... you have to always address steep grades vertically...always remain in 4wd when ascending/descending...most importantly you have to go slow and stay focused...

Good luck...

Of course a FEL and BH; otherwise no point. Good tips. I'm already pretty familiar with the pucker factor, and I always go slow and stay focused, yessir. (Right up until the moment I get stuck, that is. Then I step off and Jay and me push it out.)

All the rentals around here are old tractors; not sure they would be a good test?