"Charging Button on 12v conversion"

[Soundguy]

or just use a REAL idiot lamp. the led won't work....

 

[MarlinSlayer]

or just use a REAL idiot lamp. the led won't work....

Yeah.......that's what I get for thinking too much. I figured "Heeeey Light Emitting Diode ....that oughtta work!" Funny thing is that I had to go to a meeting out of town. Right near the meeting was a Radio Shack....Two diodes, 2:99.....and they had the same LED light that I paid $10.00 for at AutoZone for $2.00....go figure. I think I will just leave the LED light in the dash until I get a proper instrument light. #1 Fills the hole, #2 wife gets confused reading an ammeter..."does that mean electricity is going in or out????"...I can explain a number of times, it doesn't matter until she wants to learn....easier to say "If the light comes on when its been running a while....let me know".

Also, I am spending a little cash on a new radiator, maybe a tank, new gaskets, hoses, etc......so I can wait till next spring for the light....I'm not trying to make it original....yet. I need a working tractor now. This one won't earn a pretty retirement until it gives me a few food plots and I can provide a replacement with a FEL. I'm a pilot....if I can't retire till 65 now....neither can the Jubilee.....

This little red tractor has gotten under my skin a little.....when it does obtain Tractor Emeritus status, I'll probably still keep it. (Like I need more stuff). But modern tractors with a FEL just don't look right pulling a hayride trailer or a float in the parade. Also, as I get older....and I don't want to try to hoist a deer on the back of a four-wheeler, I figure a carry-all on the back on the three point would be a good way to get a deer to the front of the farm.....scooping them up in a FEL bucket just doesn't strike me as very romantic.

SoundGuy....you're like the big brother i never had.

 

[MarlinSlayer]

The charging button is just there to turn the alternator on so that it charges. If you replace the button with a light it will do the same thing only you won't have to push the button to make the alternator charge.

The symptoms you describe, to me indicates a really poor battery connection somewhere.

Dude you hit the nail on the head (or in aviator parlance...You shacked it). I had another thread.....of all things, the inside of the positive terminal had a black oxidation lining where it contacts the battery post. The good thing is that before I figured that out, I took apart EVERY connection that the Battery connects to, to get to ground to the frame and cleaned it up. the Positive cable had a vinyl liner on the connection head the exact color of the terminal that connects to the post which explains why I couldn't jump it to start the few times I tried. It is chewed up a bit and looks like a veteran terminal connector. If you look closely at the connector, you can see a faint line where the insulator stops and the metal is exposed. Never seen a battery terminal connector with a grey insulator bonded to the terminal....red boot yes, but not this.

 

[MarlinSlayer]

Soundguy,

Funny thing I noticed, whenever something doesn't work that you suggest, it's usually because they didn't follow your explicit instructions verbatim. In my case, I didn't want the aesthetics of a marker lamp dangling around...so I went wanted a diode and couldn't find one. I know this is not news to you....but I figured it might be somewhat cathartic to know that I probably should have followed your instructions the way you intended. :thumbsup:

 

[Soundguy]

If you get your diode polarities correct, cathode to #1, anode to key, then you can just parallel your new diode with the led.. When it starts to charge, lamp will go out.. Just like an idiot lamp

Once alt charges, potential at #1 matches battery (key), thus no current flu from key to #1, thus no lamp

 

[MarlinSlayer]

If you get your diode polarities correct, cathode to #1, anode to key, then you can just parallel your new diode with the led.. When it starts to charge, lamp will go out.. Just like an idiot lamp

Once alt charges, potential at #1 matches battery (key), thus no current flu from key to #1, thus no lamp

You said Parallel...did you mean put the diode in series with the LED lamp, otherwise, wouldn't that defeat the purpose?

 

[Soundguy]

If I said parallel, why would I mean series!

If you dont understand current flow, might be time to read up on ohms law!

Before the alt turns on there is a potential difference from bat to #1, after alt is on, no appreciable potential difference. Takes a potential difference for current flow. Takes current flow to make a lamp or led light. thus key on, machine not running, lamp glows, once alt comes on, potentials equalize, no current flow from key to #1, thus no lamp... The diode and led do the same thing, the diode just allows for more current in the circuit when parallel. If you series them, you are stuck with the minscule current flow of the led, and the alt won't excite via #1....

 

[pmsmechanic]

Think of it this way. The alternator is - until it's charging. Then it puts out +. The other end of the bulb it hooked to the key switch and is +. When the alternator is not charging the bulb has a + and - and so the bulb lights up. When the alternator is charging the lead turns to + and the light goes out. Two +'s turn off the bulb.

 

[Soundguy]

Didn't I just say that.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Didn't I just say that.

I know and yes you for sure did but it was in engineers language and while I understand, I know many people don't. I just remember how enlightened I felt when I finally understood how a charging light works.