Leaf Springs - suitable for cultivator tine tips?

[Reverser]

I'd use at least 7018 to weld spring steel and preferably something like a 312 stainless, Super Misslie weld, etc.

I agree with Arc weld on this. 6013 is for mild steel, not high carbon steel such as springs.
I had a plowshare(high carbon) break in 4 pieces, years ago. I grabbed the nearest rod which was either 6011 or 6013 and welded them up. In less than a minute, every weld cracked with some little sharp "tink" "tink" noises when they started cooling down. I immediately realized I had used the wrong electrode and went back with 7018. I guess if 6013 is all you have it wouldn't hurt to give it a try and see, as long as it's non-critical.

 

[Shield Arc]

I grabbed the nearest rod which was either 6011 or 6013 and welded them up. In less than a minute, every weld cracked with some little sharp "tink" "tink" noises when they started cooling down.

Years ago I was involved in replacing a bunch of cracked welds in several low boy trailers. These trailers were made out of T-1. We would carbon arc out the cracked welds, grind clean. Preheat and reweld with 110-18. Wrap the weld in insulation, and move to the next cracked weld. In just a few minutes, we hear that awful sound, tink!

 

[dragoneggs]

Thank you jaotguy. Where possible I use my floor drill press whenever drilling in steel using new engine oil for cooling and lubricating. I just use enough oil to stick onto the metal scarfings and work piece without the oil dripping anywhere. I'm hopeless at using a hand held drill for steel - it takes forever, I can't exert enough pressure on the drill, the holes are anything but circular, and the drill bits end up blunt or broken.

John

Remember you are trying to take heat away from the cutting area. Using very little 'coolant' is not much better than dry. Create yourself a drip pan and apply a little shot frequently. When it is smoking you are too hot.

 

[Reverser]

Years ago I was involved in replacing a bunch of cracked welds in several low boy trailers. These trailers were made out of T-1. We would carbon arc out the cracked welds, grind clean. Preheat and reweld with 110-18. Wrap the weld in insulation, and move to the next cracked weld. In just a few minutes, we hear that awful sound, tink!

:laughing: How did you finally end up repairing those rascally trailer cracks? Sounds like you were doing all the right things, correct rod, pre-heat, etc.

 

[Shield Arc]

You know I don't remember! This was in the mid 1970s, not sure if I got pulled off to do something else or not. Maybe we just kept doing the same thing until the stars were in the correct alignment. These trailers carried the nuclear waste tanks we were building across the country. These tanks were 8-feet tall, and 8-feet in diameter. Some of the tanks had 7-inch thick lead walls. So they were fairly heavy.

 

[jbwilson]

Interesting to read about electrode selection for various tasks. I have never used anything stronger than a 70xx electrode - and even then I think someone donated it to me. Of course if I was asked to weld up some nuclear waste tanks, and I couldn't wriggle out of the job, I would use something like a 11018 - and then I would warn everyone within a 100 klm radius so that they knew I welded it and therefore had to refrain from drinking the local water for about 5 million years. My understanding though is that higher strength electrodes are much more prone to cold weld cracking than lower grade electrodes. I don't know if there is much difference between a 6013 and 7018 in that regard though. My preheat consists of leaving the piece(s) in the sun on a hot day. I rarely have a cold crack, but then I only do simple welding jobs involving low-medium carbon steels (and I have a well used grinder).

John

 

[jbwilson]

I misread Shield Arc's post - I wouldn't use 11018 electrodes for nuclear waste tanks because they're made of lead. Instead I would use soft solder on the tanks instead, and everyone would be safe. Phew!

John

 

[bigdeano]

For what it's worth, I've always used 308L stainless for welding high carbon steel. I've welded shortened axle shafts and grader blades. Never had a crack. They work good on 304 stainless too.

 

[Stache]

I misread Shield Arc's post - I wouldn't use 11018 electrodes for nuclear waste tanks because they're made of lead. Instead I would use soft solder on the tanks instead, and everyone would be safe. Phew!

John

Seems more like a job for J B Weld, so you don't risk those tanks into fishing sinkers. [ JB Weld is great stuff, not too expensive, comes in a little tube, doesn't hold anything, but it's not too expensive and comes in a little tube. ]

 

[olllotj]

A masonry bit makes easy work of drilling leaf springs.