/ D130 will not start, tried every bit of advice already- Help needed -Hero opportunity
#21
D130 will not start, tried every bit of advice already- Help needed -Hero opportunity
- Thread starter ZaqAttack
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/ D130 will not start, tried every bit of advice already- Help needed -Hero opportunity
#22
MossRoad
Super Moderator
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
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- 57,931
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- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
You've never mentioned pulling the valve covers and seeing if the valves are actually moving as you rotate the engine. Many folks have suggested doing this. I'd have done that simple inspection long before pulling a fly wheel. Its worth looking at.
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
Above and a compression test which was suggested at the beginning of the thread. I would pull the exhaust valve push rods and see how much compression you have. I would pull the intake push rods while at it to make sure they are not bent too.
Were you using the carb cleaner to try to start the motor? Were you able to turn the key and spray the carb throat at the same time?
Were you using the carb cleaner to try to start the motor? Were you able to turn the key and spray the carb throat at the same time?
SPYDERLK
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2006
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- 10,309
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- VA
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- JD2010, Kubota3450,2550, Mahindra 7520 w FEL w Skid Steer QC w/Tilt Tatch, & BH, BX1500
The main problem that causes push rod breakage is movement of the exhaust valve guide. It moves toward the valve spring retainer and the retainer and guide then hit as the valve opens. Sorry I didnt post earlier, but with a two cyl I figured one would run. Now Im thinking that a shared carb might make both cyls affected enuf so it wouldnt go.
,,,Check those pushrods.
,,,Check those pushrods.
/ D130 will not start, tried every bit of advice already- Help needed -Hero opportunity
#26
just bought a compression gauge and did the compression test..this can't be good... just 30 psi on both cylinders...I do not know the spec for this engine - B&S Model 407777 Type 0285B1 Code 111202YG but can't think it is this low ??
I believe I did the test correctly, as I did it once with both plugs removed - 30 psi both cylinders,,then placed one sparkplug back and did the other cylinder and got the same 30 psi - I then tried the compression gauge on my other push mower and it registered 70 psi which seems right for that ole girl....so I think the gauge is ok and I did the test correctly..
Ok let's recall the problem as it occurred - I put her away running, sat one week and then went to restart - it had a big backfire,,scared the crap out of the dog, and she ran away... tried cranking her after that and the rest of the story is covered in this thread... I had recently changed the oil and used 10W30 - wondering if this has anything to do with it - is this to heavy an oil ? - is the big backfire and no start after, an indication of a some gasket failure ? I am sorry I have not removed the valve covers, as there are no replacement gaskets in town and will take 2 days to get, so thought today I would do the compression test, and if it passed this test, then I might not have to buy these gaskets... but wonder what you may all think.. Also still googling and youtubing what to look for in values,,, but wow that compression seems really low
I believe I did the test correctly, as I did it once with both plugs removed - 30 psi both cylinders,,then placed one sparkplug back and did the other cylinder and got the same 30 psi - I then tried the compression gauge on my other push mower and it registered 70 psi which seems right for that ole girl....so I think the gauge is ok and I did the test correctly..
Ok let's recall the problem as it occurred - I put her away running, sat one week and then went to restart - it had a big backfire,,scared the crap out of the dog, and she ran away... tried cranking her after that and the rest of the story is covered in this thread... I had recently changed the oil and used 10W30 - wondering if this has anything to do with it - is this to heavy an oil ? - is the big backfire and no start after, an indication of a some gasket failure ? I am sorry I have not removed the valve covers, as there are no replacement gaskets in town and will take 2 days to get, so thought today I would do the compression test, and if it passed this test, then I might not have to buy these gaskets... but wonder what you may all think.. Also still googling and youtubing what to look for in values,,, but wow that compression seems really low
Yes, way low. Should maybe pump up to at least 100-120 or more after several revolutions unless it's quite old. Compression that low would suggest either suddenly extremely worn compression piston rings (not likely) or bent/stuck/broken valve. The big backfire tends to confirm that you have a bad valve - the engine fired after you had tried to crank it and filled the cylinder and exhaust with unburned fuel/air, but with one or more valves partly open, the explosion was NOT confined inside the cylinder.
You can quick check for marginal rings by squirting a tablespoon or so of motor oil in each cylinder, rotate a few times to distribute it, then check compression again. If it rises significantly, that means that the liquid oil inside the cylinder is temporarily helping to seal leaky rings.
If you are careful, and tap lightly on the valve covers after you loosen the bolts a 1/2 turn or so, you can very often break the OEM gaskets loose without damage and reuse them. But my bet is on bent, broken, or stuck valves, so you will have some work to do anyway and the gaskets will just be a small part of the issue.
- Jay
You can quick check for marginal rings by squirting a tablespoon or so of motor oil in each cylinder, rotate a few times to distribute it, then check compression again. If it rises significantly, that means that the liquid oil inside the cylinder is temporarily helping to seal leaky rings.
If you are careful, and tap lightly on the valve covers after you loosen the bolts a 1/2 turn or so, you can very often break the OEM gaskets loose without damage and reuse them. But my bet is on bent, broken, or stuck valves, so you will have some work to do anyway and the gaskets will just be a small part of the issue.
- Jay
/ D130 will not start, tried every bit of advice already- Help needed -Hero opportunity
#28
I stopped by the local JD dealership and talked with a mechanic.... he says the low compression is by design, to assist with start-up..need it running to get accurate psi reading.... he thinks bad gas and sticky intake values is most likely...
Pulled the Valve covers just now... first cylinder the intake pushrod was disengaged..but straight.. Intake value was stiff,, managed to get it moving again.. but seems stiffer than the exhaust valve
...second cylinder .. wicked bent intake pushrod... valve will not budge..
so not sure if I can repair this - replacing the pushrod and resetting them both sounds like something I could figure out, and I know now from youtube how to check an set the valve gap with a feeler gauge.. but the intake values that are not budging ? is this a brute force thing ? or is a stuck valve beyond this DIYer ?
BTW thanks for your advice :cool2:and patience to date Jenkinsph, SPYDERLK, MossRoad & JRobyn, tcartwrl, Gator6x4 and davel708 all got this right pretty early on you guys are all big time contributors and your help is invaluable - special mention to GerryE, who nailed it right off and has only just had 7 contributions ..
Zaq
PS hoping everyone will stick around till she is running again
Pulled the Valve covers just now... first cylinder the intake pushrod was disengaged..but straight.. Intake value was stiff,, managed to get it moving again.. but seems stiffer than the exhaust valve
...second cylinder .. wicked bent intake pushrod... valve will not budge..
so not sure if I can repair this - replacing the pushrod and resetting them both sounds like something I could figure out, and I know now from youtube how to check an set the valve gap with a feeler gauge.. but the intake values that are not budging ? is this a brute force thing ? or is a stuck valve beyond this DIYer ?
BTW thanks for your advice :cool2:and patience to date Jenkinsph, SPYDERLK, MossRoad & JRobyn, tcartwrl, Gator6x4 and davel708 all got this right pretty early on you guys are all big time contributors and your help is invaluable - special mention to GerryE, who nailed it right off and has only just had 7 contributions ..
Zaq
PS hoping everyone will stick around till she is running again
Last edited:
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
In my prior post I suggested you pull the exhaust valve push rods and see how much compression you have. I mentioned that to address the compression release.
/ D130 will not start, tried every bit of advice already- Help needed -Hero opportunity
#30
thanks - so please correct me if I have something wrong here and so that I am sure I understand - if I pull the exhaust valve push rods then do the compression test this will allow me to bypass the compression release mechanism - being the the compression release system is actually holding open the exhaust valve a bit to allow for less pressure in the cylinder for easier start up ? that is really smart thanks, great idea... It was my first compression test so was not very good... you know first times - always to fast and not satisfactory ...:newhere:
I think I will replace the bent pushrod and hook things up - but I am not sure about the stuck intake valve - hoping someone will let me know what to do there, as I do not want to take it to the JD dealership (very pricey here)