John Deere 301A Reverser issue

[Zebrafive]

Forward part 11 is the check port for the forward clutch pack pressure. Rear part 11 is the check port for the reverse brake pressure.

Check with your JD dealer parts for T29586 $6.85 (at my dealer) this is an adapter -03 ORB male (3/8-24) to female 1/8" NPT threads. You will need to use/adapt your pressure gauge hose to 1/8" NPT if it is not already that size.

 

[ucsport08]

Forward part 11 is the check port for the forward clutch pack pressure. Rear part 11 is the check port for the reverse brake pressure.

Check with your JD dealer parts for T29586 $6.85 (at my dealer) this is an adapter -03 ORB male (3/8-24) to female 1/8" NPT threads. You will need to use/adapt your pressure gauge hose to 1/8" NPT if it is not already that size.

Thank you Zebrafive!

 

[ucsport08]

Forward part 11 is the check port for the forward clutch pack pressure. Rear part 11 is the check port for the reverse brake pressure.

So I finally measured the pressure and it was 0 psi in the forward port and 0 psi in the reverser port and 0 psi in neutral. That doesn't sound good to me. What could be the issue that would cause this to both the front and back at the same time?

 

[Tx Jim]

Broken trans pump gears could cause no pressure in either of the 3 positions. I presume you have changed hyd filters & cleaned sump screen(parts key 15). Hyd filter relieve valve(parts key 7-9) could be stuck open.

 

[Zebrafive]

Also a broken pump oil line. I had a PTO clutch line break. It caused an internal leak and all trans pump flow was to sump when PTO was engaged.

 

[ucsport08]

Broken trans pump gears could cause no pressure in either of the 3 positions. I presume you have changed hyd filters & cleaned sump screen(parts key 15). Hyd filter relieve valve(parts key 7-9) could be stuck open.

Okay so I hadn't checked these before. I checked and changed the Hydraulic Filter.

The Sump screen in the picture, what tool do you use to remove the drain plug (#13)? It is a large square recess. I tried using my socket wrench with no bit attached and a bar for added leverage, but it started to strip the inside so I stopped. I tried to use a battery powered impact and that didn't work. I didn't have time to hook up my air impact, but I guess I could try that.

For the Relief Valve in the picture. The parts catalog looks a little different than the picture you posted (attached)

The one in the catalog has 2 springs, 1 on each side of the metal sleeve (#9 in your picture). Either way, when I unscrewed the large hex bolt drain plug, all I could see was the metal sleeve. I had to use needle nose pliers to pull it out. I noticed that there were no pins installed in that metal sleeve. I didn't keep it out to see if the other spring was in there because hydraulic fluid was dumping out and I didn't really want to drain the whole system. The pins are shown in both pictures, so I assume they are important to keep the springs in place. Could this be the culprit, and how could both pins fall out?

Thanks guys!

 

[ucsport08]

Any idea what's going on here?

 

[Tx Jim]

The pins are roll pins and have been known on a few occasions to break. You could insert the nozzle from the hose of a running shop vacuum into hyd filler opening to keep hyd oil in trans while you inspect valve components better.

 

[ucsport08]

So I took the metal sleeve out and here is what it looks like.


Looks like the pins are in there. I looked at my parts manual book I have and the Relief Valve only has one spring towards the middle of the tractor, but when I took that metal sleeve out I couldn't see it. Not sure what else to check. I still can't get the Sump Screen out.

 

[Tx Jim]

If sump screen is coated with debris they can be a pita to remove. I would recommend getting screen out and cleaned/inspected before continuing any other hyd diagnostics. Is pin(parts key 5) not in trans case?