To fill or not to fill

SSdoxie · Oct 17, 2014

MoPops said:
Not really sure how I can lower the pressure. If I open up the valve stem, beat juice comes out. Ha
I'm sure it'll destroy a normal gauge.
Thx

I run 12 - 14 psi in my R1 Ag tires. Put valve stem at very top (12:00 position) push in on valve core and some fluid will come out then will start with straight air unless tire is over-filled.

tman1020 · Oct 17, 2014

I'm not sure what mine are set up at. The tractor is on a job right now when I get home I will check and let you know if you still want to know by then.

MoPops · Oct 18, 2014

I'll check it again when I get back up to the farm. I had the valve stem right at 12:00, and juice was coming out. I wanted to make sure he was getting in all the juice that was possible. They are over filled. I'm going to leave them at 30, might make for a rougher ride, but it'd be a mess to bleed some out.

Hill Billy Bob · Oct 18, 2014

Try parking on a side hill, check high side tire first with valve at 12 o'clock. Turn tractor around to face the opposite direction, and check the other tire.

There will always be a bit of juice in the valve stem. If not overfilled, just a quick shot of air to clear the valve before checking pressure, makes for less mess.

MoPops · Oct 18, 2014

Hill Billy Bob said:
Try parking on a side hill, check high side tire first with valve at 12 o'clock. Turn tractor around to face the opposite direction, and check the other tire. There will always be a bit of juice in the valve stem. If not overfilled, just a quick shot of air to clear the valve before checking pressure, makes for less mess.

Great idea. I should have known.. Park it on a hill.
Will do. I think I'll lower the pressure a bit.
Thanks!

tman1020 · Dec 18, 2014

Thought I would just mention this Cabelas stores that sell tractors at least the one near me is now a rim guard dealer they quoted me $230 out the door price for filling the rears of my CT 225.

MoPops · Dec 18, 2014

Seems like a good deal to me. I'm sure glad I had mine filled.

Lifeman · Feb 3, 2015

MoPops said:
Seems like a good deal to me. I'm sure glad I had mine filled.

I am in Center where did you you get them filled?

MoPops · Feb 3, 2015

Lifeman said:
I am in Center where did you you get them filled?

The company that filled them was from Palmyra Mo. Here's what I paid.
"Cost was $232. Included a $75 serv chg, and a $9 fuel chg. "

I'll try to dig up my receipt and get the name and # of the company that filled them.

MoPops · Feb 4, 2015

Brahler's in Palmyra.
(573) 769-1041.
I have no affiliation with them at all.
I just thought they did a good job.
Jeff

oldtimer 66 · Feb 4, 2015

FYI Just some food for thought. A 3 point weight box and or implement on the back of a tractor is considered sprung weight even though the tractor has no suspension per se. The tires are considered some what of a primary suspension. Now this weight adds to the axle/ bearing loads. Filled tires and wheel weights are considered un sprung weight. It has little effect on axle/ bearing loads other than dynamic loads when the tractor is moving. Later.

outsidezion · Dec 8, 2015

My CT225 seems to be designed perfectly for use with the backhoe attachment. Sometimes I think its a little bull dozer! But, without the backhoe attachment on (and its rarely on due to 3 pt usage, wood cart hauling, etc) the tractor seems to be quite light in the back end.

I use the skidsteer forks for hauling logs to a stack then lifting those logs to waist height where I cut the rounds with my chainsaw. There was a profound difference when I added fluid. I used the little nozzle available from farm stores, bought a cheap submersible pump, and bought I forget how many gallons of antifreeze from Napa. The tractor is much safer for bucket and fork work.

In addition, I used a 3 pt hitch bracket, hitch bar extenders, and a 50 gallon bucket that I filled with concrete and now my tractor is a woods machine.

tman1020 · Dec 8, 2015

I have decided (at least for now) that I'm not going to fill. I rarely have traction problems if I have something on the rear hitch and I always have something on it. Plus my cab helps a lot at 400#. I would like to have more stability though especially with higher center of gravity due to the cab. I'm going to have the local steel shop make me some wheel weights. I can fit 16 "round material inside of rim but it is not cheep. Then I won't have to deal with the negatives with filling the tires.

MoPops · Dec 12, 2015

TMan,
That's interesting. It also totally makes sense.
FYI, I think it was your original post that sent me down the "beat juice" pathway.
I've had them filled for quite a while now. It's like a totally different tractor. I can't believe how much more stable it feels.
The cab would do a lot of the same though.

Thanks anyway for inspiring me.

Jeff

tman1020 · Dec 13, 2015

Yeah I originally intended to fill them. And beet juice is what I have come to believe is the best option for filling them. I have had several tractors that I have used with and without liquid ballast inside the tires and it definitely does make a big difference. Especially on lighter machines. It's just that I haven't had much problem with traction on this particular machine I'm just more worried about stability on account of the cab weight creating a higher center of gravity. I haven't had a problem yet but I'm worried that if I hit a soft spot in the ground like from a muskrat whole caving in near the pond that it could tip me just enough and the momentum could potentially roll me. I was just thinking that if I could get the stability I needed just by adding wheel weights and not having to fill the tires I could avoid some of the worries that come along with having liquid inside your tires. even though most times it's well worth the trade-off. In the past I've either had liquid and wheel weights or only liquid when I couldn't use wheel weights. So with this tractor I may start with the wheel weights only and see how that goes.

FTG-05 · Dec 13, 2015

You keep saying there are negatives and worries with filling tires, yet you go on about worrying about stabilty and rolling over.

What possible negatives are there with filling your tires vs. a potential rollover and perhaps seriously injuring or killing yourself? The only negative I'm aware of is the cost of beet juice.

Something doesn't compute.

But then again, I'm dead serious about not having a roll over. That's why I have filled tires, wheel weights, torque tubes weights and front bar weights plus a 520 lb weight block on the rear of my box blade..

tman1020 · Dec 14, 2015

Yes the cost is a small negative but it is much cheaper than steel weights so I would almost consider that a positive. The only negatives are that you have to contend with the liquid being in the tire in the event you have punctures or repairs/replacement. Unless of course you used a corrosive product or one that could freeze then precautions need to be taken. The only other negative is that the tire does not react the same with liquid inside of it. It does ride slightly rougher and it does not react the same traction Wise. This is normally offset by the added weight however still a negative. The addition of steel weights eliminates these negatives with the exception of cost. So I thought I would save up and give that a try first. If I'm not completely satisfied with the result I may then fill with beet juice. But I suspect with this particular tractor the way I have it set up the steel weights will be sufficient.

MtnViewRanch · Dec 14, 2015

tman1020 said:
Yes the cost is a small negative but it is much cheaper than steel weights so I would almost consider that a positive. The only negatives are that you have to contend with the liquid being in the tire in the event you have punctures or repairs/replacement. Unless of course you used a corrosive product or one that could freeze then precautions need to be taken. The only other negative is that the tire does not react the same with liquid inside of it. It does ride slightly rougher and it does not react the same traction Wise. This is normally offset by the added weight however still a negative. The addition of steel weights eliminates these negatives with the exception of cost. So I thought I would save up and give that a try first. If I'm not completely satisfied with the result I may then fill with beet juice. But I suspect with this particular tractor the way I have it set up the steel weights will be sufficient.

I am truly surprised to hear you say that the tractor rides rougher. My experience is the exact opposite. I have two tractors with all 4 tires filled on both tractors. 75hp and 32hp machines. I run the same air pressure filled as I did with just air, R4 tires on both. Both tractors ride very noticeable better with the filled tires than with just air.

Just my observations.

FTG-05 · Dec 14, 2015

tman1020 said:
Yes the cost is a small negative but it is much cheaper than steel weights so I would almost consider that a positive. The only negatives are that you have to contend with the liquid being in the tire in the event you have punctures or repairs/replacement. Unless of course you used a corrosive product or one that could freeze then precautions need to be taken. The only other negative is that the tire does not react the same with liquid inside of it. It does ride slightly rougher and it does not react the same traction Wise. This is normally offset by the added weight however still a negative. The addition of steel weights eliminates these negatives with the exception of cost. So I thought I would save up and give that a try first. If I'm not completely satisfied with the result I may then fill with beet juice. But I suspect with this particular tractor the way I have it set up the steel weights will be sufficient.

- Punctures/repairs: big deal

- Rides rougher: not mine, it rides far better with tires filled. I have my fronts filled: even mucho better.

- Freezing: Use the appropriate amount of RV antifreeze per your location or beet juice; both are non-toxic and ... guess what? prevent freezing. Another non-problem.

- Traction: better than non-filled (I thought this was a no-brainer?)

I'm still waiting on the list of negatives (or even just one) that *might* come close to a roll over with it's attendant potential injures and/or death.

Deerherd · Dec 14, 2015

I think SCUTS and CUTS with R4 tires should probably be loaded. I had a DK Kioti that benefitted a lot from loading the tires in dry conditions. I have a 88 hp 10,000lb Utility tractor with R1 tires that I won't load the tires, it's heavy enough already with FEL and anything on my the rear. There is much more adjustability with R1 tires and mine are set to 90" wide so tipping isn't an issue.

I have lots of wet conditions and loading the tires only makes you dig faster and get stuck quicker, especially with R4 tires.

A lot depends on your conditions, tractor size and tires. Loading the tires isn't for everyone.