Wanting tiller

/ Wanting tiller #1  

Orange blood

Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2015
Messages
45
Location
Tennessee / Chattanooga
Tractor
2014/15 kioti dk40se hydro
I have a dk40se and will be getting a tiller early spring . I will be doing my food plots on the hunting property with some decent size rocks here and there (size of softball or lil bigger) and gonna try and pick up side jobs as well so I want a reliable and tough tiller. I'm thinking I need a 6ft to cover R4 tracks . Would like to stay with land pride ( not sure what model ) and would like to hear if anyone has one or what u might recommend ..... Thanks
 
/ Wanting tiller #2  
/ Wanting tiller #3  
Kuhn,Howard,CCM,Maschiao or Woods.If you have softball size rocks as you stated your gonna beat the H_LL out of that tiller.I would buy a 3pt 5 or 7 shank spring loaded ripper then york rake the rocks out.
 
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/ Wanting tiller #5  
Maybe a tiller after the rocks are removed. Otherwise you might damage the tiller or PTO drive. Go for a tiller with a slip clutch and do yearly maintenance to make sure it does not "freeze" on you. Tiller is great if the soil has already been worked and rocks and roots have been removed.
 
/ Wanting tiller #6  
Buy what you like, Land Pride is a quality product. I have a Woods GTC52 on my (2006) Kubota B7510 and it has served me well for the past 9 years. My tiller is wide enough to cover the tire tracks. The PTO is a slip clutch type and a thin rust film will form. To clean this, I measure the length of the springs and then loosen everything up, clean with a wire tooth brush and reassemble and tighten back to the initial spring measurements. With that said, if I hit a big rock, the tractor will shut off quick! I don't know which type of PTO shaft is better, my tiller came with the slip clutch type. When I bought my tiller, the Kuhn was the most rugged and most expensive. All the other "name brands" seemed to be pretty equal to me one way or the other. During initial tilling on new ground, I have to remove rocks I hit with the tiller (basketball size) using the FEL, sometimes I have to remove the tiller and install the back hoe. If my tiller hits softball size rocks it will shake the heck out of my tractor, be ready to push the clutch in. For softball size rocks I till up, I stop and put the rock in the FEL, and continue tilling. Seems like the more I till the garden, the more rocks come to the surface!
 
/ Wanting tiller #7  
No body has more rocks than us in the North-East;that being said I have used my tiller(Bush_Hog branded) for 13 years with minimal problems.Just make sure the slip clutch is working and the discharge flap is wide open.
Our land has been active for at least 150 years and we are still pulling up rocks!
 
/ Wanting tiller #8  
You also have to decide if you want a forward or rearward rotation. I have a one that can be set up either way., takes about 20 minutes to switch but i do have the choice.
 
/ Wanting tiller #9  
Buy what you like, Land Pride is a quality product. I have a Woods GTC52 on my (2006) Kubota B7510 and it has served me well for the past 9 years. My tiller is wide enough to cover the tire tracks. The PTO is a slip clutch type and a thin rust film will form. To clean this, I measure the length of the springs and then loosen everything up, clean with a wire tooth brush and reassemble and tighten back to the initial spring measurements. With that said, if I hit a big rock, the tractor will shut off quick! I don't know which type of PTO shaft is better, my tiller came with the slip clutch type. When I bought my tiller, the Kuhn was the most rugged and most expensive. All the other "name brands" seemed to be pretty equal to me one way or the other. During initial tilling on new ground, I have to remove rocks I hit with the tiller (basketball size) using the FEL, sometimes I have to remove the tiller and install the back hoe. If my tiller hits softball size rocks it will shake the heck out of my tractor, be ready to push the clutch in. For softball size rocks I till up, I stop and put the rock in the FEL, and continue tilling. Seems like the more I till the garden, the more rocks come to the surface!

Would it be too much trouble or take to much time to use the backhoe bucket with teeth installed to rake over the area first to try to uncover the rocks? (roots in my area)
 
/ Wanting tiller #10  
/ Wanting tiller #11  
I run an Ansung Terra Force YJR 074 on my Bobcat CT235 - smaller and less HP than yours. This tiller is built like a tank - very heavy duty (weighs roughly 1000 lb) and the price is reasonable. Something Ansung does that others don't is both ends of the tiller shaft are supported by oil bath roller bearings. Most of the other brands the outer bearing is just greased sleeve type. Several sponsors sell them here. I got mine out of an agg rental fleet at my local Kubota dealer. I suggest you rent the various sizes first to see what works best, but weight is you friend here. Look closely at the units, the number of tines and spacing, and the weight of the tines. Also look at the torque tube - does it run fully across the unit. How is the gear drive attached. Gear driven is better tha chain, especially with the rocks you mention.

Good luck on you choice.

PS - if you buy used from a private seller, be sure to see it run, and check the oil level and see if it is fresh and not contaminated.
 
/ Wanting tiller #14  
I have the king kutter II. I run a 60 inch behind my tractor and I have been very happy with it. It comes with a slip clutch and does a very good job. This is the only three point tiller I have ever used but I don't really see how it could work any better.
 
/ Wanting tiller #15  
I use my brother' stiller in some rocky ground putting in food plots. I leave the flap most of the wash up-it seems to spit the big rocks out without damage.

Will
 
/ Wanting tiller #16  
Wouldn't it be better to plow first? Does a tiller mix up the dirt more than plow? The plow would reveal all the rocks but never stop on them, just move over or around.

Also, you can loosen those clutch Springs for more slippage instead of it cutting the tractor off.
Use a small torque wrench.
 
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/ Wanting tiller #19  
A plow cuts a small strip of ground & flips it over. That neatly buries anything growing on top to kill it. It's not designed or intended to mix up dirt. A tiller or disk harrow is however intended to mix up dirt. A harrow especially after a field has been plowed to mix up the dirt that the plow has loosened up.

A disk harrow can till ground a lot faster than a rototiller, but depending on how packed the ground & how much vegetation will require multiple passes, negating the speed advantage. To work properly a disk harrow needs to be pulled at a reasonably fast speed so the pans can reasonably fling dirt around. A harrow will bounce over roots & stumps better than a tiller. I looked at both & went with a tiller, no need to get up to speed for proper tilling & the tiller is a lot more maneuverable than the disk, especially for the wife's garden.

I don't remember how wide my King Kutter tiller is, but it's enough to clear the 60" track on my L3200 (probably 62" or 66"). I "plowed" my front pasture with a subsoiler before hitting it with the rototiller. My 32hp L3200 HST couldn't go fast at all, but did a good job. The HST was really nice as I could just keep pushing on the go pedal until the RPMs started to drop then ease off a hair. Kept the engine pushed to the max most of the time, despite varying dirt conditions. Might have been a fair bit harder with a gear machine, especially if you are short on HP.

A reverse rotation tiller will do a better job burying plant material & leave a slightly smoother finish. However a forward rotating (with the tires) tiller will jump over rocks & roots a fair bit better than a reverse rotation one. For some reason reverse rotation seems to be slightly more expensive.

Stalling the machine via the PTO shaft isn't great, but isn't the end of the world, depending on how it happens. If you are just pushing it a little to hard & end up stalling, you are unlikely to hurt anything & there is little reason to adjust your clutch. Your drive train should be built to take all the torque your engine can put out. You just need to manage how hard you are pushing your tractor a bit better. The clutch (or sheer pin) is there to prevent sudden massive spikes such as the entire power train going from 540rpm (2000r+ usually at the engine) to dead stop in an eighth of a second when a rock jams the tiller or what not. The instantaneous torque when something jams & all the rotating mass of your engine & drive train comes to a screeching (maybe literally) halt is a LOT more than it's designed for.
 
/ Wanting tiller
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Thanks for the info I should have stated that almost all tilling will not be new ground and my food plots have been tilled for 10 yrs prob still a few softball size rocks though . I always throw some out when I am walking in it when hunting. What is a good number of tines and the spacing I should look for on a 6ft I just want the best dirt for my customers I can get them . Don't want the reverse till been reading they are hard on tractor? Plus more $. Thanks
 

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