LD1
Epic Contributor
How long does that take to heat up to getting a good draft going? :confused2:
It don't have to heat up. Good drafr almost right from the start
How long does that take to heat up to getting a good draft going? :confused2:
Nope...The mountains of N.E. GA...
Both red and white oak of trees felled in the last 6-8 months...
Two different meters both +/- 1%-2%...interior of large fuel sized read 18%-25%...and actually I like mixing the fuel wood up...anything less than 10% is going to burn very fast...even with a throttled flue...
Do you know this as fact? Sounds like a lot of hype to me as I've not read any good reason for the new restrictions on wood burners. People spewing forth their opinions as facts cause a lot of unnecessary drama in this world. If you have proof of this being the reason for the laws I will apologize otherwise please stop with the rhetoric already.
I am not understanding how wood can be too dry for good burning. The dryer it is the hotter the fire is (although we all know from Ray Bradbury that the actual flame temperature for all wood is Farenheit 451) there is more heat surrounding the actual point of combustion which results in more complete combustion and therefore less creosote, particulate, etc. If it burns too fast that is a function of the control of the stove.
I am not understanding how wood can be too dry for good burning. The dryer it is the hotter the fire is (although we all know from Ray Bradbury that the actual flame temperature for all wood is Farenheit 451) there is more heat surrounding the actual point of combustion which results in more complete combustion and therefore less creosote, particulate, etc. If it burns too fast that is a function of the control of the stove.
When the wood is around 20% or so moisture, that moisture is actually resin/sap and will give you a great amount of heat from its combustion alone. ~ this level of "moisture" is ideal, in order to get the most heat from your wood, along with the most complete combustion.
I am with you on this one - in a well controlled unit the dryer the better but there is some "automatic" control with some moisture content.Agree that control of a stove/fireplace is paramount for efficient wood consumption...
Lots of variables...some stoves and fireplaces are more efficient than others...units that allow manageable air (draft) are more efficient...lots of fireplaces don't even have flue dampers (just open/closed)...That is why a moisture content of 12% to 20% is recommended...
A happy medium is a little cooler burning fire that does not consume wood stores so quickly...
My biggest problem with having more than a year of wood storage is the dang fire ants/termites will get into it. Living in the deep deep south, this is a problem. I have it on cribbing off the ground and they still get into it. One cold fall day, I was moving some left over, from the year before, from a cribbing outside the back fence to another inside. Wasn't very much, maybe 30 or 40 split pieces. well, I got down to the last few pieces and saw something white looking like cotton candy. I got to inspecting it close and there were these bigger black looking things moving around in it. Suddenly, one of them emerged....bumble bees. Yikes!Thank goodness it was pretty cold out and they were very sluggish. I got the lighter fluid and a starter and lit 'em up. Burned good too. I hear those things are murder when they get after someone. Tear them up for sure. Don't know if they are as bad as hornets....but they looked pretty menacing. :confused3: