What to look for buying old Farmall

[jeffgreef]

Well, looks like I might get myself a 60th birthday present. There are several Farmalls I see on Craigslist and I'm going to investigate. I have to drive a way to see them, so I really have to look carefully once and make a decision when I am there, no second chance. So I'm looking for advice about how to assess the units on site.

The first is a Cub circa 1950, with PTO and hydraulics. They claim it has and older restoration, engine good, a hydraulic leak, but tires are good and it has a blade, the only implement I want. They say the trans makes a bit of noise, but I think that's fairly typical for these. Price on this $1000.

The second (and third) are a couple of Super As circa early 50s. One claims recent rebuild and no problems, the other says several leaks. $1600 on the one with rebuild but no implements, $2400 on the leaking one, but the leaking one has a blade and box scraper.

The prices are not bad for running tractors. Fixing leaking seals is a job- the seal is cheap but splitting a tractor is not what I want to do.

So anyhow- whatever you can suggest for what to look for when I'm on site looking- thanks.

All I will use it for is to grade 1/2 mile of gravel road. Super A would probably be better for that, but I'd have to pay a hauler, whereas I can tow the cub.

I'll post this on the Farmall forum as well.

 

[TJP89]

What do you mean when you say the Cub has hydraulics? 3PTH? I'd stay away from the leaking one, that could be minor, or serious. My H has a tranny leak, very small, bad seals. I just put a bucket underneath it and top off the tranny from time to time. Not worth splitting the tractor, which as you say, is a job and a half for some cheap seals. Obviously look at them, and if the Cub is OK, I'd go there. I'd stay away from the leaking A. Also, I assume you know what you're getting into with older tractors, they usually need some running repairs, and rarely does everything work properly. I bought my H for 3500, 3PTH, electric start and hydro lift 72" mid mower included. Electrical and hydraulic needed a little work. It took six months and some serious money to get it working consistently, but now it runs great. Point is, know what you're getting into. Little leaks can be big problems down the road.

 

[sweettractors]

Well, looks like I might get myself a 60th birthday present. There are several Farmalls I see on Craigslist and I'm going to investigate. I have to drive a way to see them, so I really have to look carefully once and make a decision when I am there, no second chance. So I'm looking for advice about how to assess the units on site.

The first is a Cub circa 1950, with PTO and hydraulics. They claim it has and older restoration, engine good, a hydraulic leak, but tires are good and it has a blade, the only implement I want. They say the trans makes a bit of noise, but I think that's fairly typical for these. Price on this $1000.

The second (and third) are a couple of Super As circa early 50s. One claims recent rebuild and no problems, the other says several leaks. $1600 on the one with rebuild but no implements, $2400 on the leaking one, but the leaking one has a blade and box scraper.

The prices are not bad for running tractors. Fixing leaking seals is a job- the seal is cheap but splitting a tractor is not what I want to do.

So anyhow- whatever you can suggest for what to look for when I'm on site looking- thanks.

All I will use it for is to grade 1/2 mile of gravel road. Super A would probably be better for that, but I'd have to pay a hauler, whereas I can tow the cub.

I'll post this on the Farmall forum as well.

The Cubs are narrow wheelbase and offset, so they are easy to turn over. Ken Sweet

 

[GManBart]

I'll post this on the Farmall forum as well.

Pretty sure they don't want you posting the same thread in multiple places...generally considered bad form on a forum.

 

[CobyRupert]

Are they 12V or 6v systems? Converted?

 

[jeffgreef]

Are they 12V or 6v systems? Converted?

All converted to 12v

I don't know what the different hydraulic setups are on Cubs, but this one has the box with piston below the gas tank that operates a lever connected to a rear blade. I assume I can mount the blade under the belly or up front as well.

Yeah I think I know what I'm getting into with a 65 year old tractor. I agree that getting the leaking A is a risk. But a Super A would be a lot more gutsy than a cub, a real worker for road grading, whereas the cub is a toy that will push a little dirt and snow here and there, and look good sitting in the driveway.

Thanks for yout input

 

[Soundguy]

Too bad no C / super C around.

 

[roadhunter]

I bought an H last year and have had fun and worked on it a bunch. Neat old machines. Lots of good forums dedicated to them on the web.

 

[PHPaul]

I'd pass on all three if you really want a working tractor. No 3 point hitch, no live hydraulics, funky PTO.

If you're hot for a Farmall, I'd still pass on the Cub. It's basically a glorified lawn tractor, very little power. Lot of folks love them, but trying to get any serious work done with them is a hassle.

The Super A is WAY more tractor. You're looking at drawbar implements for any of them, I'd pass on the more expensive one unless the implements are in excellent condition and exactly what you need.

 

[sweettractors]

I personally, Had rather have a older Ford or Ferguson (600 Ford/30 Ferguson) with 3 point hitch capabilities. Money should be pretty comparable. Ken Sweet