Generator Power to Hunting Cabin

[lakngulf]

Finally made it to the farm and got a picture of the trailer breaker box. Don't think the actual picture will change any of the good suggestions but wanted to follow up with the photo just in case. I indeed want to wire into the box with a receptacle on the other end that can receive a cable from any generator.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Ok, good. Those 4 heavy wires that come in from the bottom look like the feeds. I would try and reroute them to a Reliance generator plug box. Mind the ground in green and the neutral with the white tape. The other two are hot.

 

[Xfaxman]

--- Trailer has hot water heater and some electric heat but I will probably not use either. Thanks for all the good help

You have 3 240v circuits and 5 120v circuits.


I see 240v labeled for heat and water heater. What is the other one for?

If you get a 120v generator, the 240v main breaker will need to be removed and the box rewired for a 120v main breaker.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Just get a 240 volt generator.

 

[lakngulf]

Just get a 240 volt generator.

Yes, good idea. I appreciate your good info and help. I know a little about electricity but probably more in the "just enough to be dangerous" category.

 

[mbohuntr]

Which ever way you go, your breaker needs to be the lowest current rated device or you are asking for trouble. You want the breaker to trip BEFORE the wire starts to get hot or you have a fire...... A 12 wire on a 15 amp breaker is fine, A 14 wire on a 20 amp breaker is a no no...

 

[grsthegreat]

If all you want are lights and outlets, yank the wires off of the double pole breakers and pull the 4 main feeders out of the pipe that goes thru bottom of panel. Now run a 10/4 SO rated cord thru conduit to the 30 amp breaker that used to feed the waterheater (if thats a 30, if not, buy a 30 amp breaker). This will be the new main breaker.

Take the other end that you dropped thru floor and install a L14-30 male cord end. This will plug into your generator. Your generator will have to have a matching recepticle. These are a 4 wire twist lock.

Since you no longer have a utility feed to panel, you dont need to mess with a transfer switch. To be totally legal, the 30 amp breaker should be swapped with the original main breaker so you can use the breaker retainer screw thats inuse. By removing the heat and water heater circuits, you wont over do a 20-30 amp generator. Im not sure what the heat source is in that trailer. If there just some cadet wall heaters rated at 2,000 watts, you may be abke to use one of them with a larger portable (5,000-7,500 watt). If you plan on using a quiter inverter unit, id eliminate the heaters.

 

[Zerk]

I used to work as a residential electrician, and now work in industry. I would get a generator, and have an electrician go out there and set up some type of disconnect or hang a plug out of the panel that is wired the cable the goes to the generator, plus ground the trailer.

My concern came when I read your description of big black wires and a white one. Need to ground it properly and terminate the cables correctly. Rain proof.

Seen alot of hack stuff out there by handyman.

I am the kind that refuses to pay someone else to do it, but I also put alot of time in reading how to do it correctly. There are nuances to electrical, as with any trade.

You may want to just hang a plug out of the panel, or put a post in the ground with a disconnect. Myself, I am not worried about code as much as I am safety.

 

[buickanddeere]

If you can find a 1000VA or larger computer UPS and a couple of boat trolling motor or golf cart batteries. The lighting circuits can be connected to the UPS. Saves having to run the generator every time a light switch is flicked on.

 

[Zerk]

Propane lights were or are common, so you don't have to run generator. You can soft copper to the light. Propane fridge and stove, plus a wood stove, and you are not using or need to much electricity.

In general I think solar power is useless, but it might be worth it for a couple lights.