How do I take my 460 loader lift cylinders apart to replace the seals?

pclausen · Oct 7, 2008

dsgsr said:
pclausen, When you do replace the wire ring on the last turn of the threads, make sure you (with your finger) pack some hard grease in that hole the wire ring is placed. This will keep the water/weather out and reduce the rust on the threads of that outside packing nut. I'm sure by now you have found it pretty hard removing that nut

Yeah. I ended up throwing in the towel and took that cylinder to the dealer. It took them 4 hours to complete the job. They ended up having to heat the cylinder among other things to get the ring loose. They feel the cylinder will be good to go, but warned that if it begins to leak again, its time to replace the whole cylinder with the newer design like what my other cylinder is (the one that was replaced under warranty). They did a great job and repainted the cylinder so it looked brand new.

They only charged me for 2 hours ($130), so hopefully it will last for a while. I put the cylinders back on my 460 loader last night and left the bucket all the way up. When I checked this morning, it was still all the way up. So far so good! I'll try to be a little more careful with the jobs I submit the loader to going forward. After all, I was using it for excavation on certain jobs, a task it was not really intended for in the first place!

Chickenlooper · Sep 4, 2013

How do you get the Nut off and get the Ring out.... We are twisting and turning and the Wire Ring is not coming out....Please help with any thoughts or suggestions.

brain55 · Sep 4, 2013

Chickenlooper said:
How do you get the Nut off and get the Ring out.... We are twisting and turning and the Wire Ring is not coming out....Please help with any thoughts or suggestions.

The first thing to do is make sure the wire is turning with the gland when you are rotating it. If it is, you slowly turn the gland clockwise watching the wire carefully. Once you see the end of the wire I use an awl to bend up the end up the wire so when I start rotating the gland counter clockwise it will come out of the cylinder. I keep rotating until I'm able to lift the tang on the other end of the wire out of the cylinder. Then I use the rod like a slide hammer to pull the gland out of the cylinder.
If the wire is not turning with the gland it gets a lot more complicated. That means the tang broke off the end of the wire. I have a 3/16" punch that I've ground down to a chisel that I use to walk the wire out with. Sometimes I get lucky and it comes out fairly easy, other times it puts up more of a fight, but I've always gotten them out. Patience and lots of PB Blaster.
Don't forget on reassembly to use lots of anti-seize and to roll the wire in turning the gland clockwise.

Brian

brain55 · Sep 28, 2014

jd110 said:
The "c-clip" is removed and then you need to tap the cap/guide back into the cylinder about an inch. You should expose a groove on the inside bore of the barrell. The rebuild kit should have an orange split ring in it. This orange ring fits into the exposed groove. Be sure it fits flush down in the groove and then coat it with grease. You should then be able to pull the rod and guide assembly from the barrell.

Thanks for this. I know it is several years old. I've repacked hundreds of cylinders over my years as an equipment mechanic and had not run into this style before. I was stumped.

Brian

brain55 · Sep 28, 2014

It's funny how I had already responded to this thread for one type of cylinder, but had no idea that the answer about the style cylinder I am working on was in the same thread, until I did a Google search.

Brian

jcavazos50 · Apr 23, 2016

brain55 said:
It's funny how I had already responded to this thread for one type of cylinder, but had no idea that the answer about the style cylinder I am working on was in the same thread, until I did a Google search.

Brian

Does anyone have picture of where you insert the split ring?