First Time Trailer Buyer - Leonard vs. Interstate (TrailersPlus)?

[Fallon]

The standard measurement for trailers is the axles. Commonly 3.5k, 5k & 7k lbs. That's the rating for the axle. Some manufacturers add a bit for the hitch weight, hence my 16' tilting deck with 2 7k axles being rated at 14,500lbs.

You really need to spend a fair bit of time reading this forum. You'll find lots of balance & weight issues with trailers being to light & to short. You almost never hear about a trailer being to long or to heavy.

Something with less than 7k axles is built for car hauling & light equipment. The deck isn't usually as well supported & the heavy point loading (4 tires) will end up tearing up a lighter trailer in short manner, even if the axles can take it.

If you get a beefy trailer it will last a long time & have good resale. If you are pushing the capacity limits at all, you'll be plagued by mechanical failures & have something broken & not worth much in short order.

I towed my 14k 16' tilting deck with my Tacoma. Tow capacity of my Tacoma is 6.5k & the tractor + trailer were about that. You can pull a heavier rated trailer behind a smaller truck. I did end up getting the beater F250 for the job to not beat up my Tacoma though.

 

[Deere Dude]

You raise a couple of really important points all of which show my ignorance - if I'm being honest! A couple of things maybe someone can help clear up:

1) My M7060 has a LA1154 FEL. The tractor has no weights, so presumably it's at the manufacturer rating plus some because of wheel water. I'm also assuming that doesn't include the LA1154. I know the tractor itself is 5000#. Assuming fuel and wheel water, I figure at least 5500#. The LA1154 I'm pegging at 1550# with the bucket and valve. So my grand total weight in my head is: 6550#.

2) On the TrailersPlus trailers they rate the larger once by "axle" but I do NOT know if that is per axle or the cumulative total. I believe it is the latter. For example, the trailers marked as "7k axle" have a GVWR or 7000#. Same for the "10k axle", 10,000# GVWR. Based upon that I've ruled out the "7k" models and am only looking at the "10k models".

3) My GUESS is that the 10k models actually have two 5k axles on it. That's why the price is relatively modest at $3400ish.

4) I have only two use cases for this trailer: a) hauling my M7060 to the shop which is about 65 miles round trip, but with a fair number of hills (not windy though) b) hauling my M7060 to my day-to-day home in town for heavy duty jobs and snow removal, also 65 miles round trip; c) hauling my other equipment, which is so much lighter as to be irrelevant in terms of weight.

5) I'll haul this rig with my Toyota Tunda (newer model) with a 10k tow capacity.

6) As usual I'm learning more than I expected with this question.

With all that said, what are my best options? What am I not even thinking of?

-Jeff

Chances are all of them have 2 axles. I would make sure the label on the trailer reads the GCWR. And I would find out the number of and also axle ratings on any of them you are interested in.

If the 10,000# rating trailer has two 5K axles on it, and the weight on the tires already is 3000# because of trailer weight you will only have 6500# to play with for your tractor.

If the trailer rating label reads GCWR 12000# and the trailer has 6K axles and weighs 3500# on the tires then you could have a 8500# payload on the trailer.

Take your time and check them out now before you get one that is way to big or way to small. Just my guess right now would be a 12,000# GCWR. But then would your truck be able to haul that, comfortably.

 

[JeffroL]

Thanks folks. I'll go take another look at some heavier trailers. Given that my tractor is around 7500# I honestly don't think my truck is going to be up to the task. I only have 2500# of trailer weight to work with before I hit the 10k tow limit and I'm not sure a 14k trailer will be that light. But I'll check on options.

The GVCW comments confuse me. I didn't realize trailers were rated that way although I know you need an appropriate tow vehicle weight vs trailer weight radio. Wouldn't the GCRW change depending on the tow vehicle? I'll do more research, but my smaller trailer is not rated that way, so maybe it's only an issue with larger trailers?

 

[ClaySlayer]

Is the 10k limit on your Tundra really 10k? I ask because the limit on my 2016 F150 (beer can body) with max Tow Pkg is advertised at 12,000 or so BUT my particular truck with its options has a GCWR (or whatever the letters are) of 16,900lbs and weight of bare truck is 5,380 and Max weight rating of truck itself is 7,000lbs. With my bed cover, drawers/tools, full fuel tank, and my arse in the drivers seat it weighs right at 6,000lbs which leaves me 10,900lbs lbs of tow capacity (vs advertised 12k) with up to 1,000lbs of tongue weight (if distributed properly because there are also front/rear axle limits to consider). So having said that your tow rating could actually be less than 10k unless you've crunched all the numbers and came up with 10k... Most advertised tow ratings assume you have nothing in the truck except $2 worth of fuel and a bean pole in the driver's seat. I believe you're in 3/4 ton truck territory my friend...don't nessecarily need a diesel (would be nice of course) but definitely need the load handling capacity of a 3/4 chassis...

 

[RyeThomas]

I would also advise to look at Craigslist, a used trailer as long as it has a title and a current inspection can save you money. More so you can get a real commercial built trailer (buy one and never again) for the price of the lesser trailers you are looking at. Realize the little things add up, ez lube axles, leds, good quality tires, ramps, drop leg jacks, dove-tail, etc, etc.
The next issue as stated is what can your truck really tow legally?

 

[wcampbell47]

My suggestion is to look at the 7x20 12K equipment trailer. Each trailer will have a mfg tag that specifies the gross weight (trailer and load) as well as the trailer weight. For instance my dump trailer is a 14k trailer with a cargo capacity of 9210 lbs. If you need to haul tractor and implements you might be better advised to go with a 14K equipment trailer. Test out the ramps. The older I get the more difficulty I have with the ramps. If that is the case for you then consider the hydraulic tilt model. That makes life much easier. I agree with the suggestion of a 3/4 ton or better truck. My tow rig is a 2001 or 2009 (cab & chassis) pulling a 20 foot goose neck 10000# trailer rated for 7700# cargo with brakes all around. I frequently tow the dump trailer with 4 to 5 tons material. Either truck is fully capable towing and stopping (very important) the load. In my state I am required to have the loader bucket flat on the deck and chained down. Same for any implement on the rear. My 20 footer does accommodate this requirement. I favor Load Trail / Load Max if you have dealer withing driving distance. PJ is another excellent choice.

 

[wcampbell47]

Thanks folks. I'll go take another look at some heavier trailers. Given that my tractor is around 7500# I honestly don't think my truck is going to be up to the task. I only have 2500# of trailer weight to work with before I hit the 10k tow limit and I'm not sure a 14k trailer will be that light. But I'll check on options.

The GVCW comments confuse me. I didn't realize trailers were rated that way although I know you need an appropriate tow vehicle weight vs trailer weight radio. Wouldn't the GCRW change depending on the tow vehicle? I'll do more research, but my smaller trailer is not rated that way, so maybe it's only an issue with larger trailers?

I think your truck will have a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating which is what your truck alone should never exceed. Then you will have a Gross Combination Weight Rating which is the limit of your truck plus the trailer with cargo. Most trucks limit out at 500 lbs tongue weight which is why positioning the weight on the trailer is so important.

 

[JeffroL]

I think your truck will have a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating which is what your truck alone should never exceed. Then you will have a Gross Combination Weight Rating which is the limit of your truck plus the trailer with cargo. Most trucks limit out at 500 lbs tongue weight which is why positioning the weight on the trailer is so important.

The curb weight of the truck w/ me in it is 6,000#. The GVWR is 10,100# and the GCWR is 16,000#. My truck has a factory installed Class IV hitch with a 1,000# max tongue weight and a 10,000# tow capacity.

The trailers I'm looking at are coming in right at 10,000# with the tractor, so assuming proper balance it should just precisely max the specs of the truck if I'm doing my math right. That said - no wiggle room in the least for an imbalanced load, etc. And no possible way for me to take the good advice of buying a beefier trailer that will have more capacity and stronger axles. If I do that I go over the GCWR of the truck instantly.

So I'm understanding why these trailer manufacturers build the trailers the way they do. They are absolutely targeting trucks with spec close to mine. 10k axles and the weight pops over the GCWR if you max out the trailer because the trailer weight goes up.

This is very complex. $300 to have the shop come get my tractor is starting to look like a more attractive option all the time!

-Jeff

 

[bspeedy]

That's the thing, I guess...

If you had a 30 hp tractor, I would say go get a car hauler for 2 grand and DIY. I know 300 round trip sounds high, but consider:

1. A set of 4 QUALITY trailer tires every five years will cost about 500 bucks
2. 4 hour round trip is maybe 200 miles. That's 20+ gallons of fuel - there's 50 bucks per trip.
3. That 4 hours doesn't include load / unload time - there's another hour total.
4. Those are hard miles to put on your Tundra. The federal mileage limits of approximately 50 cents per mile do not really cover what it costs to run a mile with the trailer fully loaded. Probably closer to a buck a mile with fuel included and wear and tear. At my 200 mile estimated distance, that's 200 bucks. Whether you spend it with a check or it comes out of your vehicle's depreciation or life span - it costs!

Think about this - If you bought a truck and trailer and hired a guy to pick up and deliver tractors all day, would you make any money for 5-6 hours and 200 miles if you charged 300 bucks for that trip? Doubt it. Don't forget about liability insurance, maintenance for truck and trailer, the guy taking a sick day, etc. You're killing them and you didn't even realize it!

 

[bspeedy]

One more thing - have you considered performing the maintenance yourself? Not sure your physical limitations, but the oil and filter changes on my 'bota are about the easiest I've ever done. It would likely take you less time than scheduling an appointment, meeting the driver, and taking delivery each time. Filters can be ordered on line.

Maybe take that 3 grand for a trailer and add a 4-post lift to your shop that is large enough to accommodate a tractor. Make a lot of things easier. Pays for itself in 5 years with just tractor transportation costs.