TN75DA Running Cold HELP!!!
- Thread starter KYTIMM
- Start date
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Shaneard
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2016
- Messages
- 1,345
- Location
- Southern Virginia
- Tractor
- Ford 4630, Two IH 140's, John Deere A
What's the outdoor temp there? It could be moving just enough water to keep the engine cool. I'm just guessing here.
musselmark
Silver Member
Funny I was going to post identical question here today. I have 2005 TN75 DA as well. I can run it at idle for hours and it will not throw any heat into cab. if I increase rpm to 1500 or more it will throw lots of heat but back to idle and cold air will come out. I removed thermostat and bought a new one. put both in pot of water on stove and both opened and closed at the same time.
Egon
Epic Contributor
Measure the actual temperature's of the engine, hoses and rad to see what's happening. Temp gauge may not work, AC system and heating combination exchangers plugged or corroded?
Thermostats can come in different temperature settings.
Thermostats can come in different temperature settings.
I'm pretty sure temp gauge is good, because it works on warm days. If it was reading low seems like tractor would have been overheating in the summer. Where and what are the heating combination exchangers Egon?
I'm sure given the condition of the condenser that there is a lot of corrosion there. Musselmark, I am only getting cold blowing air at any RPM. I am mostly concerned about using the tractor too cold, as I have been told not to do this.
I'm sure given the condition of the condenser that there is a lot of corrosion there. Musselmark, I am only getting cold blowing air at any RPM. I am mostly concerned about using the tractor too cold, as I have been told not to do this.
ch1ch2
Veteran Member
I have a TN95A.
The TN60, 70, 75, 85, 95A's are all enough the same to be covered under the same factory manual.
I have never worry about it running cold since I live in Texas. I have alway looked at the temp, and it has always been cool, except one time I was shredding a field, in 100+ degree outside air, 4 wd, and the bearing going out on the shredder. The gauge needle was straight up, but not any where close to over heating.
From these posts, I am wondering if it is in the design of the engine.
The TN60, 70, 75, 85, 95A's are all enough the same to be covered under the same factory manual.
I have never worry about it running cold since I live in Texas. I have alway looked at the temp, and it has always been cool, except one time I was shredding a field, in 100+ degree outside air, 4 wd, and the bearing going out on the shredder. The gauge needle was straight up, but not any where close to over heating.
From these posts, I am wondering if it is in the design of the engine.
Egon
Epic Contributor
To find the heater/AC elements just follow the coolant lines. Make sure everything is clear and does flow fluid.
Your hand may give an idea of rad temperatures.
Your hand may give an idea of rad temperatures.
musselmark
Silver Member
I never understood the logic behind covering your rad with cardboard etc...Is the heater core not fed from the other side of the thermostat, fluid from the block , a constant 170 or whatever thermostat is rated at?
hawkeye08
Elite Member
If there is any water moving through radiator, having cardboard in front will reduce amount of air moving through radiator so cooling is reduced. Sounds like engine is not even warming block up much, or not much water flow through heater when idling.
I understand now how blocking the radiator stops the air being pulled through from the fan. The engine is not warming up the block much. Water is running through all of the lines I have traced. I can feel the temp of the lines running into cab, they are warmer than the top hose, as they should be, but no where near warm enough.
