Loader 5035 Hydraulic Problems

[timster]

The hydraulics for my front end loader have gone weak. Overall the hyd feels weak and the bucket tilt will bleed off with the tractor running at 2200RPM. While mowing my bucket will drop 5 inches in 5 minutes and that is with nothing in the bucket. The lift cylinders do not seem to bleed off but they do feel weak.
My dealer is incapable of understanding the problem let alone fixing it. I have had it there twice and get the deer in the headlight look when I try to explain this. So I'm on my own.

Any ideas on where I should start? Does anyone have a hydraulic diagram?

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Sounds as though you may have something wrong with the loader's control valve.

The valve is likely cable operated and so you want to focus on getting a diagram for that. It could be that a cable isn't seating right and ever so slightly holding a valve open. It could also be that something is preventing the valve from centering. Hopefully this is something messing with the cable and not something inside the valve itself.

 

[timster]

Your right it is a cable operated control valve. I never thought about my cable adjustments. Thanks Eric that is something I had not considered.

 

[ktmhans]

may or maynot be your issue, but i would pull the caps off the valve, 2 allen bolts a piece. i think they face forward under the floor on the right side. spray down the internals. I would do this before adjusting anything.

 

[timster]

Ok, Maybe a dumb question here but wouldn't they be lubed by the hyd fluid? I'm not questioning your advice. I'm trying to learn something about how this whole system works. I have assumed everything in that valve assembly touched hyd fluid.

 

[RNeumann]

The cable actuated valve is similar to the lever style valve in that the valve is actuated with levers and pivot points. That's probably a terrible description but you get the idea. I'm reading he is suggesting cleaning and lubing all the moving parts that are on the outside of the valve.
The internals, which is basically some plungers, are lubricated by hydraulic fluid. but many of the moving parts are external.

Have someone move the joystick while you are looking at the valve- the movings parts will be visible.

 

[timster]

It has been way to cold for me to pursue this. I'm hopping to get into it between Christmas and New years. One last question, do I need to lube the cables coming from the joystick? If so how do I do it, and what do I use?

Many thanks everyone

 

[ktmhans]

under the Caps as they are called, doesn't get you to the hydraulic fluid, no springs go shooting out. Id call it a neutral area. nothing should get in there but condensation. and crap from the factory. i could barely operate my loader, cleaning doesn't turn it into a high end valve but it does smooth it out. I wouldn't lube the cables personally.

just follow the 2 lines down from the joystick. do a circle in a stupid spot where a stick could rip them off. to the valve body. its all pretty easy. just dont go adjusting anything on the springs once you remove the 2 caps

 

[timster]

I finally got a chance to work on this. I took the cables off to include the actuating lever. It turns out there was some corrosion, nothing serious. I cleaned that up. The problem was everything was out of adjustment. It wasn't much but it made a big difference. I reinstalled everything by the instructions including routing the cables correctly and it seems to have cured my problem.
Does anyone know if the loader is installed by the dealer or does it arrive from the factory installed?

 

[RNeumann]

Both....Loader subframes are typically added at the "factory" here in the USA. Then crated without wheels and tires and sent to the dealer. The dealer would then add the loader itself and tires etc. If a dealer did have a machine that they decided to add the loader to they could do that as the sub frame bolts on....typically.
If you are asking about the control valve- a cable actuated one that is near your right leg would almost always be done at the factory.