Tractor Sizing Lookin' For New tractor 36 Acres (Open to Suggestion)

[Luke'sScreenName]

Also, you should consider the potential negatives of a cab; especially working in the woods. A cab would not be an acceptable option for me.

 

[Nromes]

40-45 horse power would be plenty. In my opinion, no such thing as too much horse power.

 

[Turbys_1700]

I just purchased a utility sized tractor for our small farm. Anything in the 40-60 HP range from any of the manufacturers here are fine. I bought a New Holland Workmaster 50 because of dealer support. Don't know what your best servicing dealer is in your area but that may be moot if you do most of your own maintenance. You may have a warranty claim that could require dealer support. Most of the units made today are pretty much spot on and need very little warranty repair but it is something to think about.

 

[newbury]

I have a total of about 36 acres of land; 10 acres of ~4' tall bush land, 24 acres of woodland, and ~2 acres of roads.

Jobs To Do:
-Mow high brush and saplings ~2in
-maintain 2 roads (some areas are Gravel||Clay||Sand or combinations there of)
-cleanup land debris (hauling logs and branches)
-cleanup trash (light construction debris, concrete sidewalks left on property from fallen builds)***
-dig up septic line, dig footings, level land for new construction, and maintain ditches
-Move Large amounts of dirt/clay/sand

Things I'm looking for are Front loader, Backhoe, Box Blade, Rotary Cutter, Root Grapple at the least.
Later job would include, moving pallets, tilling, plowing, posthole digging, wood chipping and spiting.

I'am trying to keep total costs around $50,000; I looking for suggestions on a tractor capable of most if not all these task to some degree. Due to the kid in me I keep looking at really large HP tractors that are out of the budget. I don't want to go to small and end up stressing or breaking this tractor either.

*** if it cant do this I'll have to rent something later on, so this isn't critical.

Things that would help:
What's your topography? Mountains? Swamp?

What's your job situation? Will you be a weekend warrior or are you retired and can "do it when you get around to it".

Even with a hoe on a 50HP tractor you might find it better to rent a mini-ex for

dig up septic line, dig footings, level land for new construction

and get the jobs done quickly.

If you decide to get the hoe a full blown TLB may be a better package, the fram will be built for hoe work, versus just an add on.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I would second the importance of good dealer support (ESPECIALLY as a new owner). IMHO, it's more important than brand.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I just purchased a utility sized tractor for our small farm.

I think you mean Compact Utility Tractor (CUT). :thumbsup: :drink:

 

[TripleR]

I really can't recommend one brand over another as all your most often encountered John Deere, Kioti, Kubota, MF, LS etc. make some good models. A couple make their own and others rebadge or outsource good tractors. It has been my experience that new operators fare better with HST first then hydraulic shuttle though there will always be exceptions so drive before you buy and give serious consideration to renting a tractor for the weekend to get a baseline for comparison. I would pick a 50-60 CUT or UT. I put brush guards on my cab as health issues keep me off our open station tractors, but many prefer open station if you're are going to be in the woods, I used one for years.

The HP is flexible as some get by with less and some like more.

Lots of people with more experience than I, so don't put too much weight in my recommendation, read them all and maybe you'll get a good starting point.

 

[jeff9366]

You need to research heavy duty Bush Hogs/Rotary Cutters fairly carefully.

You may want to have a commercial service cut the four acres of brush and saplings the first time with a Heavy Duty cutter, then maintain that area with a medium duty 'hog. Cutting four acres of 2" saplings is going to pound new medium duty Rotary Cutter rather too hard. Your alternative is to drop the 1-3/4"+ and 2"+ saplings with a chainsaw and/or safer 20 volt or 40 volt battery powered reciprocating saw, chop the branches with brush, after pulling out the bundled trunks to be burned.

Also, if you are hilly in Nichols, SC, heavy duty Rotary Cutters, which usually weigh 1,000 pounds up, push around light tractors on slopes more than any other Three Point Hitch implement. Not safe work for an inexperienced operator.

Add a Ratchet Rake to your primary implement purchases. Great for tearing out brush, piling brush and light grading. Can open ground for small garden.
VIDEO: ratchet rake brush clearing - YouTube

 

[jeff9366]

A cab is a Plus and I would love to have it; but if it comes down to it I'll live without it.

Also, you should consider the potential negatives of a cab; especially working in the woods. A cab would not be an acceptable option for me.

This must be a hobby or residential property. No open field.

Any reason you cannot defer operating tractor during inclement weather?

If you operate 100 hours per year, which would be more than most recreational users, that is only two hours per week.

Most with cab tractors would be working large fields for hours, when seeding or harvesting HAD to be accomplished in a restricted time frame due to weather.

 

[Plantation Paul]

Biggest mistake folks make is not buying enough tractor the first time, and not getting a cab first go around, when that is what the really wanted...do a lot of pissing into the wind before they get it right

No doubt! I inherited my 685 CIH with no cab, so there was no choice. I can stand the heat okay, but when you are running slow with wind and the dust from what ever you are pulling hovers over you like a cloud, well.... I started dead heading to the other end so I could stay out of the dust. I don't have that problem anymore though!!!