Mobil 1 20,000 mile oil change.

[Copperhead]

One thing also, different grades of filters filter differently. For instance, a synthetic media filter typically will filter to a smaller micron level than a cellulose (paper) media filter. Also, the synthetic media has a more uniform cell structure that, while it does filters smaller, it also has a beta flow that allows it to be used longer and capture more and still flow effectively. For instance, many brands of standard cellulosic filter will filter to 30 microns typically. Their synthetic media versions will typically filter from 15-20 microns. So they filter a little better, and at the same time, will flow more uniformly, and actually hold more and last longer. This is why some of the higher end synthetic media filters make claims of being able to go 15,000 miles.

So even for shorter oil change intervals, the better quality filter could be beneficial due to the better filtration. So using a Wix XP / Napa Gold filter would be a better overall choice than the standard Wix / Napa filter. Same for using a Fram Ultra as opposed to a Fram Extra Guard.

 

[def38]

I'll continue to change the oil in my vehicles at 3k miles just because it's worked for half a century so why risk it. I'm doubtful that the miracle formulations change things all that much ..... but then again I'm surprised by the spark plugs that have lasted 150k miles without a burp. I bought a new set two years ago to have on standby and it looks like I'll never need them.

As others have said, today's motor oils are dramatically better and more advanced that oils from just 20 year ago. Some differences;

1- NOACK scores have risen. Modern oil stays in grade much longer.
2- Many oils contain EP additives such as molybdenum disulfide. This stuff reduces friction and protects at high temperatures.
3- ZDDP additive can save an engine from damage that has run low on oil. Most engine oils contain it at adequate levels.
4- The better synthetic oils do not shear down.
5- Corrosion inhibitors are better as are the anti-oxidants.

...and the list goes on.

Even using non-synthetic oils, a 3000 mile OCI is likely way too soon.

Also, pay close attention to the oil filter you use. There is a big difference in them, as well.

Likely the most severe oil application I have is my BMW motorcycle. The engine is air/oil cooled. When riding hard in summer heat, the engine oil is performing several jobs;

1- Transferring waste heat out of the engine.
2- Lubricating.
3- Cleaning.
4- Controlling acid produced in the engine.

My synthetic engine oil does all those jobs for 10,000 miles and still comes out of the engine clean and in grade.

Do what you will but, short OCIs are a waste of money and resources....my opinion (and some other's, as well).

Yup, spark plugs are another subject. Unless you are a NASCAR engine guy, spark plugs in most engines will last past 100,000 miles. The NASCAR guys change them frequently so they can accurately read A/F ratios using the spark plug color. I recently sold my 1995 Ford Taurus with 120,000 miles on it. The spark plugs were OE. That car (3.0L pushrod V6) delivered 24 MPG in town and 27 MPG highway...same as when new.

Also, don't fall for the fancy platinum/iridium plugs with multi-electrodes for your factory stock engine. The regular Autolite or Champion single adjustable ground electrode plugs are fine. Also, they're about $12.00 for the set.

 

[def38]

One thing also, different grades of filters filter differently. For instance, a synthetic media filter typically will filter to a smaller micron level than a cellulose (paper) media filter. Also, the synthetic media has a more uniform cell structure that, while it does filters smaller, it also has a beta flow that allows it to be used longer and capture more and still flow effectively. For instance, many brands of standard cellulosic filter will filter to 30 microns typically. Their synthetic media versions will typically filter from 15-20 microns. So they filter a little better, and at the same time, will flow more uniformly, and actually hold more and last longer. This is why some of the higher end synthetic media filters make claims of being able to go 15,000 miles.

So even for shorter oil change intervals, the better quality filter could be beneficial due to the better filtration. So using a Wix XP / Napa Gold filter would be a better overall choice than the standard Wix / Napa filter. Same for using a Fram Ultra as opposed to a Fram Extra Guard.

Fram oil filters are not welcome on my engines. Cut one open sometime and you'll see why. I do use their air filters however.

 

[AGRIMAN]

Doesn't that really mess up your nice clothes?



Bruce

View attachment 502565

Na, I hire it done......LOL...

 

[Copperhead]

Are you sure you meant NOACK scores have risen or decreased? NOACK is the burn off vaporization rate of a oil. Those number rates have typically declined with the better quality base oils being used. You are correct, modern oils do stay in grade much better than previous versions. The lower the NOACK rating the better.

ZDDP (zinc and phosphorus) have traditionally been good extreme pressure and anti friction additives, but there are many others that do as effective of a job or even better. Moly, Titanium, boron, etc offer excellent anti friction / extreme pressure properties to motor oil. And with the latest oil specifications, ZDDP is being used less and less due to its negative effects on emissions after treatment devices. Yet, even with the decreased ZDDP, modern motor oils are delivering exceptional anti friction, extreme pressure modification, and anti wear properties the exceed previous spec oils. This is especially true with the new CK-4 diesel oil formulations which all have reduced ZDDP.

Base oil doesn't shear down, irregardless of conventional or synthetic. It is the viscosity modifiers/improvers that shear. True, a high quality synthetic typically does not require as many VM as a conventional, but unless the oil CCS rating is close to the actual viscosity of the oil (say, a 10w30), VM is required even in a synthetic. Some of the PAO Group IV base oils are able to meet 10w30 without any VM at all, making them essentially a straight 30w oil while still meeting the CCS rating of 10, which is a rating of 6700 or less at -20c.

While changing oil soon may be a waste of money, that is relative to the individual and their wallet. I can think of many things people do to their vehicles that I think is a massive waste of money, but it is their money and they can do with it what they wish. As for being a waste of resources, that is a false argument. Waste oil is reused in other areas such as heating and boiler fuel, re-refined in to motor oil again, or any number of other uses. There is no waste of resources.

 

[California]

The waste of unneeded oil changes for me is my time. Sitting waiting for the car to be done is the least interesting thing I can think of.

Why do this more often than the owner's manual specifies?

 

[TomSeller]

I mark mine for a 3000 mile oil change so that I get it done by 5000 miles.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Fram oil filters are not welcome on my engines. Cut one open sometime and you'll see why. I do use their air filters however.

Friends dont let friends use Fram

 

[TomSeller]

Friends dont let friends use Fram

Agree..

 

[AGRIMAN]

I am a man of faith and do like dealing with facts. The problem today is you must decide what is fact and what is hype. As I said, to each his own, so do whatever you fell is best for you. I have turned wrenches all my life in one way or another and my favorite part has always been building/tuning engines. I'm not referring to you personally, but it's a crying shame what some folks will do in name of trying to save a dollar.

I realize that none of this will change your mind and I'm not trying too (or anyone else for that matter), but I suspect the black oil in your 7.3 after the first 100 miles has more to do with the 18K mile oil changes than any residual oil left in the pan. One of my diesel trucks is a 02, 250 4x4 crew with the 7.3 that I bought new. It is lifted with a Bully dog tuner and has worked its entire life between the farm and our other business.

The majority of its current 315K miles, it has pulled a loaded trailer of some sort. When the oil is dropped out after every 5K it is just as pretty and clean as the new that go back in. Now, is that due to my every 5K or the Rotella or maybe just luck, you decide. I can also tell you that both the low & high pressure pumps, injectors and turbo are all still factory.

Maybe I am just wasting my money, but I can't think of a better do it.