Mobil 1 20,000 mile oil change.

[LD1]

Fram oil filters are not welcome on my engines. Cut one open sometime and you'll see why. I do use their air filters however.

Friends dont let friends use Fram

Agree..

Fram makes some of the best filters on the market.

I use their Ultra Synthetic filters (XG filters or at least use to be). I use them on everything. Kubota, Backhoe, ATC, everything with an engine.

Only one I dont use it on is my cummins. And thats only because I cant find an XG/ultra synthetic filter from fram that is stocked anywhere.

 

[def38]

The waste of unneeded oil changes for me is my time. Sitting waiting for the car to be done is the least interesting thing I can think of.

Why do this more often than the owner's manual specifies?

...and the reason I do my own oil changes...Oh, and I can remove my used oil filter with a gloved hand...no struggling with a too tight filter.

 

[def38]

Fram makes some of the best filters on the market.

I use their Ultra Synthetic filters (XG filters or at least use to be). I use them on everything. Kubota, Backhoe, ATC, everything with an engine.

Only one I dont use it on is my cummins. And thats only because I cant find an XG/ultra synthetic filter from fram that is stocked anywhere.

There have been incidences of cardboard and glue found oil galleries of engines using Fram filters. Also, the Fram filter canisters are thinner material than other brands. Finally, anti drainback and pressure relief valves are cheaper materials than those found in other brands.

I recall a Fram coming apart at the seam between the canister and flange on a motorcycle at a racetrack I was attending. The rear wheel got oiled and the rider highsided. Remember the PTFE Fram oil filters some years back? I just don't trust their oil filters.

Next UOA, check particle count and distribution.

 

[newbury]

The waste of unneeded oil changes for me is my time. Sitting waiting for the car to be done is the least interesting thing I can think of.

Why do this more often than the owner's manual specifies?

And why do it as often as the owners manual specifies if the vehicle is far out of warranty, the oil is far better and it continues to show good UOA's?

 

[ray66v]

ALL engines burn oil.

Some engines burn oil. Some do not.

I own a 1997 Villager. It has 234,000 miles on it.

It has never had anything in it, but regular Penzoil, and those "junk" Fram oil filters. With oil changes at 5,000 miles.

Having changed the oil myself nearly 50 times, I can say with certainty, the oil level does not drop, any perceivable amount, between oil changes. And, I have been watching it very closely, expecting that to happen at some point.

I have not detected any drop in the oil level so far, in our 2014 Sedona, or our 2013 civic, which are using synthetic oil, at 9,000 mile intervals.

The Civic already has 80,000 on it.

 

[aczlan]

I change my oil every​ 7k to 10k miles which works out to once a year, or every 9 months (depending on the vehicle). The wife's Yukon has an oil life monitor that changes the oil change point based on highway vs city miles, idle time, etc. That ends up being about 9 months. My Taurus X let's me set the interval and I have it set to 10k miles or 12 months.
Both run full synthetic with good oil filters.

Aaron Z

 

[LD1]

There have been incidences of cardboard and glue found oil galleries of engines using Fram filters. Also, the Fram filter canisters are thinner material than other brands. Finally, anti drainback and pressure relief valves are cheaper materials than those found in other brands.

I recall a Fram coming apart at the seam between the canister and flange on a motorcycle at a racetrack I was attending. The rear wheel got oiled and the rider highsided. Remember the PTFE Fram oil filters some years back? I just don't trust their oil filters.

Next UOA, check particle count and distribution.

Blanket statement and still wrong.

No glued together cardboard in the fram filters I speak of. And the anti-drainback valves are as good as any. IF you did some research on the fram filters you may learn something. Most of the major players all have cheap glued cardboard and paper filters. Most of them also have good filters with synthetic media that are top notch. Fram is no exception. To say that all fram filters are junk is just like saying all johndeer tractors are junk when you are only basing it on the models sold at lowes.

Some engines burn oil. Some do not.

I own a 1997 Villager. It has 234,000 miles on it.

It has never had anything in it, but regular Penzoil, and those "junk" Fram oil filters. With oil changes at 5,000 miles.

Having changed the oil myself nearly 50 times, I can say with certainty, the oil level does not drop, any perceivable amount, between oil changes. And, I have been watching it very closely, expecting that to happen at some point.

I have not detected any drop in the oil level so far, in our 2014 Sedona, or our 2013 civic, which are using synthetic oil, at 9,000 mile intervals.

The Civic already has 80,000 on it.

Key word being perceivable amount. The oil rings dont get ALL the oil off the cylinder walls. There is still oil film left for lubrication. When the spark plug fires and combustion happens, that oil film is burnt off to some degree.

Some engines are no doubt tighter than others. And as they age, it can get worse. But ALL engines will consume a little oil. My point was, based on the topic of the thread regarding 20k oil changes......keep an eye on the level.

 

[ray66v]

Key word being perceivable amount. The oil rings dont get ALL the oil off the cylinder walls. There is still oil film left for lubrication. When the spark plug fires and combustion happens, that oil film is burnt off to some degree.

Some engines are no doubt tighter than others. And as they age, it can get worse. But ALL engines will consume a little oil. My point was, based on the topic of the thread regarding 20k oil changes......keep an eye on the level.

You can insist that "ALL" engines theoretically use some degree of oil.

If it's so little, you can't even see it, then it's a moot point.

For many, going 20k is not going to be a problem.

My vehicles could definitely do that, without needing any oil added.

 

[LD1]

You can insist that "ALL" engines theoretically use some degree of oil.

If it's so little, you can't even see it, then it's a moot point.

For many, going 20k is not going to be a problem.

My vehicles could definitely do that, without needing any oil added.

And you are more than welcome to do that. No point in trying to make a big deal out of it.

For most people who are used to 3k-5k oil changes....jumping right to 20k changes as this oil claims.....it would be wise to keep an eye on the dipstick til you get to know you engine and its consumption. That's all I am saying. So no sure why you want to make a big issue out of it. Do as you please, but even knowing the last 100k-150k history of my vehicles, I'd still checking that dipstick every 1500-2k. Its too easy not to.

 

[Texasmark]

I really don't believe that any engine is built so tight that it needs 0W30 weight to operate as some manufacturers suggest.

0 is for cold starts. No brainer for syns and 5 and 10w Mobil 1 oils are probably 0s too....just look at the cold spec on the syn base oil....-54F I think is the number.

On machining tolerances, I followed a video of a guy touring the Evinrude E Tech 2 cycle outboard motor production facility and tolerances were in 1/10,000, not 1 or 2 or 5/1000ths of an inch. It may have been in millimeter units, don't remember but the point is, things have changed with all our technology in manufacturing and 10x tighter tolerances is an every day thing it appears.