Mobil 1 20,000 mile oil change.

   / Mobil 1 20,000 mile oil change. #71  
I can think of many ways that people "waste" money on what they do with vehicles, but oil changes are hardly one of them. Especially since an oil change is usually less than most folks blow on going out to eat and drinks on a Saturday night. It really is about one's comfort zone. If they feel comfortable changing oil at 3000 miles, and they are not worried about the cost, then it is not a "waste". Same if they only go to 5000 miles. The only time it can appreciably be called a waste, is if you start paying for their oil changes. Then you would have standing to determine if what they are doing is a "waste". That you are comfortable with longer intervals is cool, and you are the one paying the bills, so enjoy! I would be willing to bet that there is probably some stuff that you do that many of us would think it is a waste of money also.

I base a lot of what I determine for drain intervals on UOA's also. I have never gone by the OLM on any vehicle.

Do the math. Math doesn't lie. Vehicle holds 10 quarts of oil hypothetically $8.00 a quart id $80.00 Oil filter hypothetically $8.00. Changing every 3K miles one would spend $4,400.00. Changing every 25K one would spend $528.00 SAVING 3,872.00, every 150K mils you drive. Now you drive for 40 years, and do 150K every 3 years and get a new vehicle that 13 vehicles in 40 years. Now you save 3,872.00 13 times that's 50,336.00 .

I must disagree with you 100% While you hypothetically dumped 50K down the sewer, I used my 50 and hypothetically invested in in Apple Stock and became a multi millionaire.

So like I said a waste of money as ever vehicle I have owned for the last 40 years gets over 100K miles with zero engine failure and 25K oil changes and my ambient air temps are 125 plus in the summer time.

That's one great thing about this Country people are free to throw their money down the sewer as they wish.
 
   / Mobil 1 20,000 mile oil change. #72  
I have pics of the PH series filters where the paper media came apart.
I'll see if I can locate them. Take a pic and transfer them here.

I have those micro ratings as well. I was thinking the wix filtered a little better than the fram too. Fram may have stepped up their game. My info is from several years ago PH series. I haven't compared filters in a while. just stuck with the one I cut open and found results for. At that time it was wix / napa
 
   / Mobil 1 20,000 mile oil change. #73  
I flip S10's and Blazers.
Just LOVE pulling the intake off of a low mileage (100k ish) engine and seeing that the PO thought it was "throwing money away on oil changes" and the intake valley needs a scoop shovel to clean the sludge out. "Golly, I have NO idea why it is knocking"!!!
Changed the intake gaskets on my personal 4.3 with 240K on it and it was surprisingly clean.
Oil is cheap. Engines ain't.
 
   / Mobil 1 20,000 mile oil change. #74  
For my :2cents:

My 03 Trailblazer's OLM called for a change at 9 to 10k miles. It has 220k miles on it. I used Mobil 1.
My 04 Suburban's OLM called for a change at 7 to 8k miles. It has 155k miles on it. I used Mobil 1.
My 09 Subaru gets changed at 5k miles. I had the heads off at 143k to replace head gaskets. The hash marks from honing were still visible on the cylinder walls. I used Mobile 1.
My tractor gets T6 at 100hrs. Only has 1440hrs on it so too soon to tell if a good choice but starts easy in winter and runs smooth and quiet.


My concern is not what the oil manufacturer claims the life of there oil is but what contaminates build up in the oil during use. Seems 20k is a lot of time for build up. Oil analysis will give you the answer. As to filters big difference in quality. Well worth doing research on before selecting filters.
 
   / Mobil 1 20,000 mile oil change. #75  
BMW gave included oil changes every 15,000 miles as part of the deal. Their engines do have bigger crankcases, but again, every 15,000.

My family worked for Mobil so far back we still call it Standard Oil. My uncle Jim started in a refinery when he was 14, retired as a refinery manager for ARAMCO. While it seems really crazy he never ever changed oil, adding as needed, and would get 160,000 on mid 60's cars. Again, really crazy, not recommended, but I'd say he knew oil better than the rest of us.

I go with a full synthetic every 10,000.
 
   / Mobil 1 20,000 mile oil change. #76  
. My uncle Jim started in a refinery when he was 14, retired as a refinery manager for ARAMCO. While it seems really crazy he never ever changed oil, adding as needed, and would get 160,000 on mid 60's cars. Again, really crazy, not recommended, but I'd say he knew oil better than the rest of us.
.
Or maybe he was just lucky. :D
 
   / Mobil 1 20,000 mile oil change. #77  
Do the math. Math doesn't lie. Vehicle holds 10 quarts of oil hypothetically $8.00 a quart id $80.00 Oil filter hypothetically $8.00. Changing every 3K miles one would spend $4,400.00. Changing every 25K one would spend $528.00 SAVING 3,872.00, every 150K mils you drive. Now you drive for 40 years, and do 150K every 3 years and get a new vehicle that 13 vehicles in 40 years. Now you save 3,872.00 13 times that's 50,336.00 .

I must disagree with you 100% While you hypothetically dumped 50K down the sewer, I used my 50 and hypothetically invested in in Apple Stock and became a multi millionaire.

So like I said a waste of money as ever vehicle I have owned for the last 40 years gets over 100K miles with zero engine failure and 25K oil changes and my ambient air temps are 125 plus in the summer time.

That's one great thing about this Country people are free to throw their money down the sewer as they wish.

Well, why didn't you take your example out to 100 years to really make your point? My point was that many folks will spend gobs of money on stuff for their vehicles that has no appreciable use or value that makes the money spent of frequent oil changes seem pretty minor. And never once did I advocate changing oil in a vehicle every 3000 miles, and neither did many other folks in this thread.

And you did take some liberty in your numbers. Most personal vehicles do not hold 10 qt of oil, but half that, and if you are spending $8 a quart for oil, I would contend that you are wasting your money if you want to make accusations about how others "waste" their money. I never spend over $20 a gallon for even full synthetic motor oils. For blends or conventionals, even less. Most good quality motor oils can be had for $5 a quart or less, especially when there are sales and rebates going on. Same on filters. Sales all the time on various brands. It is not unrealistic for the typical individual to spend less than $30 on an oil change if they are prudent in their buying choices. Most people spend a lot more than that just going out to eat on a Saturday night.

Of course, larger engines that hold a lot of oil, most folks with those take those oil changes out much further. No way I would change oil in my 12.7L Detroit engine at 3000 miles. It doesn't hold 10 qts, but 10 gallons of oil with 3 oil filters. And it is worth it to me to do used oil sampling on it at every oil change to monitor the quality of the oil, wear numbers, etc. to get the best oil change interval out of it since it racks up about 130,000 miles a year. For the average person and their personal vehicles, doing UOA's to determine the best oil change interval is not really practical, cost wise, and doing more frequent oil changes doesn't change the overall cost when compared to that. If they spend $30 on an oil change, and $25 on a UOA that says they can go 10,000 miles, by changing the oil at 5000 miles they are out just about the same amount of money. Sure, they might be able to make ego claims about taking their oil changes out further, but their wallet is just as light.

And even claims like Amsoil's 25K or one year claim (only for their most expensive oil), they also have a caveat included. If the engine is operated in any way that falls into the severe category according to the OEM (which most do fall into the severe category per the OEM suggestions in one way or another), Amsoil drops their marketing claim of 25K miles to 15K miles. Now if one only goes to 7500 miles not using UOA's compared to someone going 15K miles with UOA's to confirm it is working, they are each spending just about the same money. And a side note: if one has engine problems, and they do not have UOA's to back up things, and they are doing oil change intervals well beyond the OEM recommendation, more than likely they will be footing the entire bill for an engine repair or replacement.

And no two engines are identical. While one engine with a particular oil could go to 25K oil changes, the one right next to it could possibly grenade doing the same thing. Different engines are operated differently, have differing effects on a motor oil of even the same brand and quality. Only a used oil sample analysis can show how that is all playing out. There is marketing hype, and then there is the real world. And the two hardly every coincide.

You are free to disagree. But at least be realistic in your presentation and not skew the numbers to make your point. I did the math.
 
Last edited:
   / Mobil 1 20,000 mile oil change. #78  
if you actually have UOA performed. You should know UOA tells you much more than just how many miles one can take their oil changes out to. I have one done once per yr. If you think it's wasted money, don't do them. This is 2017, $25.00 really isn't that much money. Most vehicles cost $25K ? at minimum. If I find out through UAO I can take my changes out to 15 K instead of changing at 6 K . That $25.00 has saved me a little time and $$

I agree, no two engines are alike, no two drivers are going to drive their vehicles alike, no two climates are alike, no two oils alike,and no two gasolines are alike
 
   / Mobil 1 20,000 mile oil change. #79  
Very true, UOA's are relatively cheap and easy. And they provide a little peace of mind on how things are going.

Even then, the only way to accurately know if taking the oil changes out further is wise is by having multiple UOA's to track the trend lines and patterns of things like wear metal rates, TBN depletion rates, viscosity change rates, etc to know how the oil is interacting with the engine. While a UOA may show the oil is still "technically" good, a pattern or trend line may show that there is a food fight developing between the oil and the engine. I have done hundreds of UOA's over the years. Analyzing them is as much an art form as science.

And if one really wants to know for sure, a good UOA will also include a Total Acid Number (TAN) test along with Total Base Number (TBN) test. Those UOA's cost a lot more than the typical $20-$25. Some UOA's like Blackstone's basic UOA do not even include a TBN test, and most other basic UOA tests do not include a TAN test, and without one, most industry council will tell you that once TBN depletes to 1/3 of what it started out with, that the oil needs to be changed. TAN rises as TBN depletes, and where the lines cross is where the oil needs to be changed. Based on statistical averages, that usually is when TBN depletes to 1/3 it's starting point, so one can make sound determinations on TBN test alone. Most labs will not flag TBN till it reaches 1, which is well below the 1/3 limit, so acids are already attacking the engine and are not being countered by the additive package of the oil at that point. If an oil starts out with a TBN of 10, once the TBN approaches 3, that oil needs to be changed. So while the lab may say the oil is still good to use, it may actually not be per Tribologist standardized guidelines.

All of this is why I am wary of marketing claims on oils and how long they can go for. There are just too many variables in the mix. But others can do as they see fit. It isn't my money on the line with their stuff. likewise, I will do as I have learned over the decades because my money is on the line. I have never lost an engine or transmission or differential in 45 years. And a few of those commercial engines have gone well beyond 1 million miles / 25000 hrs without a major repair.
 
Last edited:
   / Mobil 1 20,000 mile oil change. #80  
Very true, UOA's are relatively cheap and easy. And they provide a little peace of mind on how things are going.

Even then, the only way to accurately know if taking the oil changes out further is wise is by having multiple UOA's to track the trend lines and patterns of things like wear metal rates, TBN depletion rates, viscosity change rates, etc to know how the oil is interacting with the engine. While a UOA may show the oil is still "technically" good, a pattern or trend line may show that there is a food fight developing between the oil and the engine. I have done hundreds of UOA's over the years. Analyzing them is as much an art form as science.

And if one really wants to know for sure, a good UOA will also include a Total Acid Number (TAN) test along with Total Base Number (TBN) test. Those UOA's cost a lot more than the typical $20-$25. Some UOA's like Blackstone's basic UOA do not even include a TBN test, and most other basic UOA tests do not include a TAN test, and without one, most industry council will tell you that once TBN depletes to 1/3 of what it started out with, that the oil needs to be changed. TAN rises as TBN depletes, and where the lines cross is where the oil needs to be changed. Based on statistical averages, that usually is when TBN depletes to 1/3 it's starting point, so one can make sound determinations on TBN test alone. Most labs will not flag TBN till it reaches 1, which is well below the 1/3 limit, so acids are already attacking the engine and are not being countered by the additive package of the oil at that point. If an oil starts out with a TBN of 10, once the TBN approaches 3, that oil needs to be changed. So while the lab may say the oil is still good to use, it may actually not be per Tribologist standardized guidelines.

All of this is why I am wary of marketing claims on oils and how long they can go for. There are just too many variables in the mix. But others can do as they see fit. It isn't my money on the line with their stuff. likewise, I will do as I have learned over the decades because my money is on the line. I have never lost an engine or transmission or differential in 45 years. And a few of those commercial engines have gone well beyond 1 million miles / 25000 hrs without a major repair.

Funny how people ignore the manufacturer's OCI and believe what an oil company tells them. My changes cost me $12/L & $14 for my filtet. I put on 40,000km/25,000 miles per year, do 4-6 changes each year. The cost does not bother me one bit.

But I know of people that drop $3,500+ on wheels and tires and then moan about a simple LOF.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

TEST BID LOT (A50775)
TEST BID LOT (A50775)
1 guard rail (A49346)
1 guard rail (A49346)
2016 KBH Fertilizer Tender Trailer - Isuzu Diesel, Hydraulic System, Rear Discharge (A52128)
2016 KBH...
LOT LOCATIONS (A52141)
LOT LOCATIONS (A52141)
2016 PETERBILT 587 (A50854)
2016 PETERBILT 587...
2015 CATERPILLAR D6T XL CRAWLER DOZER (A51242)
2015 CATERPILLAR...
 
Top