Rust on my table saw

[woodlandfarms]

So was gone for two months. Got home and the shop roof has a small leak. Dropped on my jigsaw table. It's surface rust. But not sure how to remove. Thoughts?

 

[flyerdan]

I'd wipe what I could off with a rag and solvent, then polish it up with a scotchbrite disc on an angle grinder. Doesn't look like there is any pitting, you might be left with some discoloration but it should come out fine. Maybe coat it with automotive wax when leaving it for an extended period to help protect it.

 

[Stimw]

Simple way is to clean it with Vinegar! It is a mild acid.
Then WD-40.

 

[PILOON]

Fine sandpaper will clear that up.
Then rub some wax on the metal to stop further surface rust, don't use oil as that will prevent wood finishes from even application on wooden projects.
Wax does not seem to deter wood finishing.
Blocks of canning wax works well when rubbed on the metal.

 

[Egon]

Sand, phosphoric acid, sand and finish with floor wax.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

00 steel wool (or 3M equivalent) and WD40 is what I have used with success. I used to then follow with Johnson's Past Wax. Now I treat every Fall with this:
Boeshield T-9 Waterproof Lubrication 12 oz aerosol Amazon.com : Boeshield T-9 Waterproof Lubrication 12 oz aerosol : Bike Oils : Sports & Outdoors

 

[radioman]

i left my table saw outside for a week and covered with cheap plastic. it ended up rusting anyway. i used leftover navel jelly. i used a rag and just rubbed it on. soon i had a rusty mess on the rag but it sure cleaned up just fine.

 

[oosik]

I used naval jelly & scotchbrite pad. Like radioman, it became a rusty brown gooey mess but it sure cleaned up nice & bright. The final wiped down was with acetone then a heavy duty floor wax - three coats. This was my cast iron band saw table top.

 

[forgeblast]

IF you go the vinegar route, you will have to neutralize the acid with baking soda and water then wipe with an alcohol product to remove the water.

 

[PILOON]

For rust deterrent I always simply rubbed canning wax on the cast iron table top.
Next time I treat a casting I might just try automotive 'clear coat' as sold in rattle cans at most auto parts.

 

[CalG]

For rust deterrent I always simply rubbed canning wax on the cast iron table top.
Next time I treat a casting I might just try automotive 'clear coat' as sold in rattle cans at most auto parts.

That rust will just wipe right off with a little elbow grease. Leaving a beauty mark and nothing more.

I painted the table on the band saw with rust red primer. It's been that way in an unheated and barely closed shop for about 15 years without a sign of rust. (I should paint the bench vice ;-)

If you just can not abide anything other that "shiny iron", Rub TALC over the entire surface several times. Talc gives a great surface for wood working tools.
Just don't get cervical cancer doing it.

 

[sixdogs]

Steel wool and sandpaper have worked well for me over the years to clean off the light rust. Then I use steel wool to thoroughly grind in the paste wax and it seems to work for me with the humidity of spring. I also cover with a plastic tarp over the winter.

 

[coobie]

I use a product called strongarm brand rust remover made by USA fluids.Good stuff,goggle it.

 

[forgeblast]

For a preventive There is Jojoba Oil - 2 oz. Lie-Nielsen Toolworks jojoba oil. I use it on some of my axes, adze and planes.

 

[Briar Hill Brittanys]

Had a trades teacher that taught us to pump a few squirts of oil on the top. Then sand through the oil to remove the rust, usually fingerprints. Wipe off the oily gunk with a clean rag, and apply a coat of Johnson's Paste wax. When the wax dried to a haze, buff it off with a clean rag. This was "back in the day", mid 70's. Still do that to shop tools in the barn, the wax lasts for many months and makes the wood glide across the top.

 

[Clay45]

Had a trades teacher that taught us to pump a few squirts of oil on the top. Then sand through the oil to remove the rust, usually fingerprints. Wipe off the oily gunk with a clean rag, and apply a coat of Johnson's Paste wax. When the wax dried to a haze, buff it off with a clean rag. This was "back in the day", mid 70's. Still do that to shop tools in the barn, the wax lasts for many months and makes the wood glide across the top.

x2 still works well

 

[jenkinsph]

By the time you buff out paste wax or any other more expensive product of your choice there is only a miniscule amount of this product left behind. None of this will last very long or provide much protection, but most will make the top surface slick for a limited time during use. I really don't see much point in using a product more expensive than Johnsons paste wax if you are regularly using the equipment. For prolonged storage a coating of fogging oil or Cosmoline spray protectant works pretty well. Have to clean it off before using the tools.

 

[dragoneggs]

Fine sandpaper will clear that up.
Then rub some wax on the metal to stop further surface rust, don't use oil as that will prevent wood finishes from even application on wooden projects.
Wax does not seem to deter wood finishing.
Blocks of canning wax works well when rubbed on the metal.

If the wax transfers to the wood piece and you don't prep it prior to finishing I guarantee it will deter the stain or other application from an even finish. That said, I sand and then wax my table saw top but I always prep my wood for finishing after all cuts have been made. Oils, yes they soak in so the issue is a lot worse when it comes to an even finish because the oil wicks. and the wax doesn't near as much. I do not like putting oils on woodworking tools.

 

[hslogger]

I have read the replies already presented. My two cents, as follows.
I take one of my hand held grinders and put a cup brush on it. With that I go over the surface and sides. It goes very quickly to clean up the surfaces. Than I wipe them with any wax, car wax, furniture wax, any kind. i just seal it and hand buff the haze off and voila. Been doing it that way ever since I restored a totally rusted table saw in the year 81.

 

[sixdogs]

I have read the replies already presented. My two cents, as follows.
I take one of my hand held grinders and put a cup brush on it. With that I go over the surface and sides. It goes very quickly to clean up the surfaces. Than I wipe them with any wax, car wax, furniture wax, any kind. i just seal it and hand buff the haze off and voila. Been doing it that way ever since I restored a totally rusted table saw in the year 81.

This sound like the new way to address rust. The old steel wool or sandpaper and elbow grease approach would give way to a wire wheel in mere moments.